73 Skier Restoration

Mike, youre correct- thats with the Coosa. We didnt order the material to add extra layers to the top and bottom of the ply on the Skier... but now Im wondering if we should have. We may not do it on this boat, but assuming I use wood again, I'll likely be doing it on subsequent ones.

Keegan,
The pylon cup and on some models the front lifting ring mounts at the stem are the only two places I can think of that you will not find wood. As mentioned, just build the spot around the cup back up to the original thickness. Wait until you get going on the stringers as you will probably have lots of small squares of glass left over.

BTW, you could have asked us first before grinding!

8122pbrainard wrote: Keegan, BTW, you could have asked us first before grinding!

Keeganino wrote: 8122pbrainard wrote: Keegan, The channel from the old stringer is a good reference but the bottom needs to be cleaned out. Grind and solvent wipe so you get a bond. What do you guys think about replacing the wood around the log, pylon, and water intake(none has any visible damage)? I already cut out the bilge pump mount. It was wet of course.

I ask so much you guys bounced right over it I am not too worried about it now. It did not move and is still not loose so whats a couple more layers of cloth? Live and learn. That is what I am doing everyday on this project.

Thanks as always! With the bombarding of posts I have put up at least one good question had to slip by the goalie!

Tim, I think you and I agreed on a rate, but did you consider that to include material? or not?

Is that starting with a completely assembled boat? and returning as such ?     Not including the "while I am in there" list.

I will work for $40 an hour. Sign me up! I am surviving on way less than that now.   

Looks like you all have been considering this....... good to keep in mind for later for my Tique; I have very sensitive skin! Ha!   

Pete:

Ha - The "considering" of which I spoke was hiring out their services, not doing a stringer job......... seems they had been calculating what they would charge and do it again for..........

I think the fumes would be getting to you all if you would take it on commercially. And Pete, My time will come...... I have a 78 which I will enjoy for a little longer before she gets torn into....

Air206 wrote: I think the fumes would be getting to you all if you would take it on commercially.

I agree! Im not actually considering it- its one of those things that once you go through, you ask yourself, "How much would I have to charge someone to make such a PITA job worth my time?" For most of us, its a labor of love!

Keegan, I think you'd be hard pressed to make any money on restoring Correct Crafts. Theres a reason why most of us choose to do it ourselves for $2k rather than sub it out for $10k. Not many of us have that much dough to throw around! It doesnt help that a stringer job would cost several times the value of the boat itself. When it comes time to sell, most people wont appreciate how much time and effort went into a restored boat. I sold my fully restored Ski Tique last year and have experienced this first hand. I bought that boat for $750, was very smart in where I bought my parts and materials, did all the work myself, sold it for top dollar, and barely came out ahead. Unfortunately, there just arent that many people interested in paying top dollar for one of these boats, regardless of the work thats been done to it. You'd be lucky to break even on a fully restored example, taking into account material costs only. Many times that wont even be recoverable. Dont even think about trying to get paid for your labor!

True that guys- I have lots of ideas and most of them suck. yet I can't stop having them.

I got mine from Jamestown. I don't think it was that expensive though. I also did not get pumps. It is 1:1 so I just pour it in a mixing cup.

Thanks for the input Mike. At that price the CPES is more expensive than my lumber!!!! They are making a killing on that stuff. Its more expensive than the epoxy resin too. I knew it was expensive but would have never guessed it would cost more than the wood itself.

Even though I drew all of the notches out on the boards, we did not cut any of them today. We got all of the stringers cut in 4 hours, but left out the notches until I figure out what I am going to do. Using a plywood floor is going to raise the level of the floor so I have to figure out what to do about that.

My Brother in law did all of the cuts. He builds cabinets so I had to keep reminding him that it was ok to just measure to the 16th. I don't know how many hours I spent drawing the stringers yesterday but it was a lot more than 4 hours, and I still have to scribe them to the shape of the hull, and do a complete dry fit. That is my goal for the week. Oh and a few more hours of grinding before I can do that.

WakeSlayer wrote: I got mine from Jamestown. I don't think it was that expensive though. I also did not get pumps. It is 1:1 so I just pour it in a mixing cup.

jamestown will match anyones price, I just paid $157 for a 2 gallon kit.

Get the power planar. Worth their weight in gold.

Exchanged the manual for the power planer. I figured the extra $22 was well worth the saved time. ***************e weather for the next few days so not too much work going to happen till next week when it will be reaching the lower 60's. Still have about 2 hours of grinding left before I can start to shape the stringers to the hull. Still debating whether to use the original secondary stringer layup or the 77 revised layup, and the notching.