73 Skier Restoration

Guess I will just have to sit on the gunnel then Another classy move I love!

8122pbrainard wrote: Keegan, When the time comes to bolt the repaired seat tubs back on the bases, I have a suggestion. I don't know if the factory ever did it (probably not) but the bolted areas are real high stress points. I'd use SS fender washers with thin rubber between them and the glass on the top side as well as rubber between the glass and the frames on the bottom side. The fiberglass tub will not have a nice smooth flat surface and the rubber will take up the irregularities.

Pete, like I mentioned above, the factory sandwiched the bottom of the glass bucket with 3/8" or 1/2" ply (on both sides). The bottom of the bucket shouldnt see much stress.

Tim is correct. It is sandwiched between plywood. I have already cut those and am waiting till I drill the holes to cpes them. Just got finished grooving out all the cracks. Will post pics tonight if I have time.

I got Tim's message a little late but I recovered nicely. This thing is solid as a rock now. Pretty sure I can get at least another 37 years out of it.

Lined out ready to be grooved


Grooved out with a dremel. I did read Tim's message right after I had done this and went back and tried to feather out the groove further but the glass just kept breaking off.


So what I did was to put 2 thin layers of cloth on the inside of the seat. Once that cured I used the grinder and ground from the outside through to the new glass I had just put in. This gave me a wide channel to fill.


Another view from the outside ground to the new glass on the inside with wide channel.


Another view. This allowed me to make these points super strong.


Before sanding away the excess, but close to the final product. Good thing I got 10 gallons of epoxy!

I am trying to figure out the final details of notching my stringers and the floor layout before I get going putting it back together.

Please help!
1. How much space is there between the bucket seat brackets? I am trying to figure out how to house the 2 batteries and build a way so that I can get to them. The PO put the battery box under the spotter seat, but there is a huge space in the bilge in front of the pylon that was covered by a metal plate. In a nutshell, can I fit a battery lengthwise in between the buckets? Where are the batteries in other Skiers?

2. Any ideas on the removable piece of plywood behind the doghouse? Part of me says to just glass it all in and if I ever have an issue back there just cut it back out. I have a round hatch that was in there before I could put back in so I can access the log.

3. What do I do about the plywood floor around the engine mounts? Should I just cut the ply out around the mounts? I don't see that being very easy to glass around if I do it that way. Any ideas?

By the way... Haven't stopped in for a while...looking GREAT!

Mike, are you ever worried about your blower getting wet in the bilge?

Thanks guys that helps a lot. Mike- what is that you are using for the trim on the floor to cover the seam where the removable plywood is in the back? I saw aluminum trim on Godafather's skier, I think. I am using the Nautolex vinyl from Gary's upholstery. Going with "Shark" on the floor and "Black" on the walls and painting the bilge white. Where do I get the trim? I will need black, white or aluminum.

I am adding the xtra battery because the seat heaters draw 5 amps a piece and a PO cut a hole in the dash for a stereo head unit. Since I can't fix the dash I am going to add a nice system. Already have a 1200 watt amp and 2 Pioneer 12's from my younger years sitting in the attic that I am going to put up under the bow and will probably put 6.5's in the kickplate. May build some removable pods with 6x9's in the back to round it out depending on how much resin I have left. I know it is not stock but what else am I going to do about a freakin 10x4" hole in the dash? The guy even drilled a hole through the top to fit a little rubber antenna that sits on the dash!!!!!!!!!!!

TRBenj wrote: I wouldnt attempt to save the air box...

Hey dude. Hope you don't mind me asking but what are you calling the "air box" or am I missing something? Thanks.

scott

Mike
Where does your battery box drain to, or does it? Are both of those bulkheads water tight from the bilge?
Thanks
Keegan

Keeganino wrote: I am trying to figure out the final details of notching my stringers and the floor layout before I get going putting it back together. Please help! 1. How much space is there between the bucket seat brackets? I am trying to figure out how to house the 2 batteries and build a way so that I can get to them. The PO put the battery box under the spotter seat, but there is a huge space in the bilge in front of the pylon that was covered by a metal plate. In a nutshell, can I fit a battery lengthwise in between the buckets? Where are the batteries in other Skiers? 2. Any ideas on the removable piece of plywood behind the doghouse? Part of me says to just glass it all in and if I ever have an issue back there just cut it back out. I have a round hatch that was in there before I could put back in so I can access the log. 3. What do I do about the plywood floor around the engine mounts? Should I just cut the ply out around the mounts? I don't see that being very easy to glass around if I do it that way. Any ideas?

Keegan, a few comments:

1. There is enough room to fit a battery between the seats, but remember that you'll be stepping on the lid if you put it there. I would highly recommend putting it all the way forward, up against the kick plate (like I did in my Tique, pictured above). This keeps it within reach, but out of the way of foot traffic. I doubt you would need 2 batteries unless you plan to run accessories for long periods of time with the motor off, but if you choose to do so, I sould consider turning the batt box sideways and making it twice as wide in that same location. In case youre curious, the original configuration would have put the battery under the driver's seat (at least thats how my '71 Skier is).

2. I would HIGLY recommend you leave that floor panel removable in the rear. I cant think of a single advantage of glassing it in. That "access" port is really best left for inspecting the packing... trying to get wrenches in there and actually adjusting it is a much bigger PITA. Leaving the panel there for maintenance purposes- exhaust hoses, shaft packing, etc just makes sense. Glass the side floors into the pockets and put a panel in that spans the mains and covers everything. You will barely notice the seam in the floor.



3. Yes, you will need to notch the ply floor around the front motor mounts. I figure I will attach a backer to the stringer for the floor to seal to. Cut the notch big enough (1" all around) so that you can fillet the edges before glassing the floor down.


Oh, and I thought you were going to go with an original style floor covering... why are you asking about the newer style carpet trim? If you want to stay original, I would consider putting a second (~3/8") floor layer on over the glassed floor. This layer can be vinyl wrapped around the edges, just like it was originally.

No need to secure the rear panel... none of our later model (78-03) boats had theirs secured. Im not sure what distance yours originally spanned, but it was right in that timeframe that CC went from spanning the mains only to spanning the mains AND exhaust cavities. I strongly urge you to do the latter in case you ever need to service that hose.

Im not sure if youre following me on the floor. It should be 5/8" or so ply, bedded down and glassed in- top and bottom, taped to the walls and bilge. If trying to keep it looking original, I would put another layer of 1/4" or 3/8" ply on top of that, which has been wrapped in vinyl. The factory put a 1/2" ply floor on top of the glassed floor.

I may have to retract my idea on setting the battery box/boxes sideways. I dont think you'll be able to mount them that way and still be able to sneak the vent and conduit tubing by them. I barely fit everything through the narrow way on the Tique.



Im also not sure youre following me on the need for 2 batteries... do you spend a lot of time running the stereo with the engine off? If so, then they may be justified. If not, then 2 batteries arent needed. The alt provides all power to the boat (and recharges the battery) when the engine is running. If youre sitting for long periods of time with the stereo on, then there would be an advantage to adding a 2nd battery (isolated from starting battery) that is capable of powering it.

Gotcha. A 2nd battery does make sense in your case then.

The 3 (2.5" PVC) air vents on the left run up to the front and eventually connect to the hoses running down from the air scoop. The tube on the right houses the steering and control cables, bilge pump hose, wiring harness, etc.

3/4" on the floor is probably overkill, not that theres anything wrong with that. Another 1/4" on top of that certainly wouldnt hurt anything though. Even then you'd only be 1/2" taller than the original configuration (with the 1/2" ply over the glass floor). I think it would be the easiest way to make the vinyl floor look finished- otherwise you will need some trim along the edges. Keep in mind that the floor with a few layers of glass wont be pefectly smooth, and the imperfections that carpet would hide will telegraph through the vinyl. The edge where its taped to the wall will also be filleted so it wont be fun installing that trim either. I dont think the newer style of trim would look right if you decide to go that route though- you can find some aluminum stuff from Mcmaster that would look better and cost a bit less as well. Be sure to seal each screw that holds it down.

When you say your panel will run TO the exhaust cavities, you mean OVER the cavities, I hope. My Skier only runs from main to main and the hose is not serviceable- PITA!

Mike- could be you are right. This is the only CC I have ever been around so I don't know any different. The extra battery fits well and I now have a plan for the installation.

Here it is



Tim- Sorry I was not clear, my hatch spans all the way across the exhaust channels and stops just short of the secondaries. I am listening on the 1/4" floor wrapped, how do I attach it to the floor underneath? Bed it in epoxy? My idea was a trick I learned cutting stryofoam under layer that goes on houses before you put the siding up. You overlap the piece that covers the wall and the piece that covers the floor and cut the line as straight as you can along joint. What you are left with is a line that perfectly lines up along both pieces. Here is a short video. It might not work as on the vinyl as well as with the insulation, but its an idea.

Thanks Pete. I thought that I had seen that on one of the skiers with the original floor and was not sure what it was called. Is it available anywhere you know of?