73 Skier Restoration

Keegan,
At the bottom of this page: Aluminum T molding If you go back and look at the pictures of Dave's floor, I think you'll be able to see some of it. It's the ribbed version and here's the picture in this thread

Pete- I never made it to the bottom of the page to see the T trim. Thanks for making it jump up and slap me ! Glad I can get that still and I will be using it.

Tim- I am stealing this idea from Mike, except using 2 batteries. If you look at the mock up picture I posted you can see in the left picture the holes in the original bulkhead leave plenty of room. The box fits the battery that came out of the boat and has a little room to spare. Group 65. I plan to glass a 1x4 to the hull and screw the boxes to the floor.

I left the original fiberglass vent tube in mine. There is only one and is about equally spaced to the PVC I ran, but slightly smaller, iirc.

Mike can you help out here? I know that up against my original bulkhead there is plenty of room. If I use a larger conduit it might not work that way. Also, I only have 2 air hoses, and am still confused as to why Tim has 3. Regardless, I will dry fit everything before I glass anything. That is why I am still in this cursed "planning" phase. Once I start glassing all the details will have been decided and things should move along quickly. There is enough room to run the batteries parallel if perpendicular is too tight.

WakeSlayer wrote: Quite a bit thinner. For the conduit I used thinwalled PVC, I posted the part number on another thread somwehere. It weighs far less than the white stuff.

because it's for electrical applications and not plumbing.

I do not have any vents on my doghouse and there was no fiberglass tubing either. Just the 2 plastic flex ducts for the air and a plastic tube for the electrical. The electric conduit seems to make sense, since they are not under pressure, are lighter and cheaper.

4"PVC S&D 3500# Super Crush ASTM D2729

is what I used.

Thanks again guys. I finished all of the "planning" today. I now have a plan in place and feel good about it. I will start cutting notches tomorrow, oh wait it is supposed to rain. Darnit I need a shop! Here are some pictures of the seat layup that I have been meaning to post but have not had the time.

The shell all repaired


The plywood, fiberglass sandwich with bolts and T nuts in place. I CPES'ed everything after setting it all up


With the cushion base in place.


Part of the deal with my upholstery guy was that I would figure out and drill all the holes for the heated seats. That is what the big ass hole is for.

I am going to mount the controller under the seat out of view and will do my best to run the wires out of site from the floor up to the seat. I milled around several ideas and in the end decided that if these things crap out after a year I will just snip the wires. I could have mounted the controls on the side of the seat in plain view but that is only cool if they work and I am going for a stock look anyway. My wife still does not understand why the heated seats. That is because she has never been out there on an 85 degree day in November when it drops 30 degrees as soon as the sun gets low and your all wet and have a 40mph cruise back to the dock. Plus they were a fraction of the cost of the heater systems they sell for IB's.

Keegan,
I'd actually go wider and deeper by another 1/8". You'll be bedding the crossmembers in thickened epoxy so if they are a little wide it's better than too narrow. When you set them, clamp a board on the top as a height stop to the top of the stringer. Put a piece of wax paper between the top of this temporary board and the stringer so it won't stick.

TRBenj wrote: What crossmembers?

I gave in and am putting the original supports back in behind the transmission that span across the bilge and to the walls to help support the floor. Also the notches for my extra layer of ply in the front and at the bulkhead. I am so tired of trying to figure this thing out that I am not trying to re-invent the wheel anymore. It is already boating weather here so it is time to get going! I hope that I can make some real progress by the end of the weekend putting the starboard side back together. I have all the materials and am ready to rock it out. Most of the aesthetic details have been decided on and will be here by the end of the month- seats, vinyl, speakers, and trim. My self imposed deadline is the beginning of June. That will be 6 months from starting.

Thanks Pete. I cannot wait to lay my first stringer down. I got to use the cabosil to fill holes on my seats. Those were a great little project to teach me to use the different materials I will be using for the rest of the build.

a large wooden dowel rod or metal rod works just as good, suspend it from some cinder blocks ladder couple chairs. But if your doing a lot of wiring afterwards then maybe its worth it

I think I will re-use the wires this year and tackle that next winter. They are all still connected and as they were under the dash and coiled up in a nice bundle. A few minutes cleaning them may be in order but I was not having any electrical issues before. Maybe replace the ones that go all the way to the back- Fuel tank, stern light, blower, and site window light.

I started out wanting to do everything and now I am having to step back and look at getting her seaworthy. My to do list. Not in order
1. Notch, CPES and install SB stringers and exhaust/platform wood
2. Make Bulkheads, air hoses and conduit
3. Demo and grind port side, remove water intake and replace wood
4. Dry fit Port side
5. Notch, CPES, and install Port stringers and exhaust/platform wood
6. Install battery box
7. Run new wiring
8. Run all cables
9. Install new bilge pump and wood
10. Make plywood floor
11. Install floor
12. Install Vinyl flooring
13. Decide on and order T trim, install
14. Bilgekote/order and apply
15. Fill snap holes on the deck for rear cushion and pre drill
16. Fill holes in transom where the speedo pickup was moved
17. Install front seats
18. Install Steering wheel and set up cable/ruder
19. Install and align motor, tranny, shaft, prop,
20. Put the log back together
21. Exhaust systems
22. Repair or replace speedo pick up system. New plexiglass for dash
23. Fuel system cleaned and installed.

I have probably forgotten a hundred steps, but it helps me to have a list

SB stringers are ready.

This was the thickest glass I have seen yet. This boat has not seen water in 6 months and the wood in there was still soaked.