Source of water

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I'd start by re-sealing EVERY piece of underwater hardware.

Sure, It's pretty basic and simple.

Remove the hardware, clean off all the old sealant, re-place in the same direction that it was, with a generous coating of 3M 5200 Marine Adhesive Sealant. Clean up drips and mess with Mineral Spirits. Let it cure for at least 48 hours.


AT

Can the freeze plug be sealed with the engine in the boat? Is this one of the items you are talking about sealing? Also, those plastic elbows look like they would be brittle as old as they are. Why did they not use Brass? Are there replacements available in Brass?

Drain plug fitting
Water pick-up fitting
All 3 Fins
Strut
Rudder Log
Exhaust Flanges
Platform Brackets
Pitots

I don't believe a small manifold crack would produce 3 inches of water in the bilge in a short time.

I suspect leaking Exhaust Flanges and possibly Rudder Log.

Even a missing Pitot screw will sink a boat over night.


AT

fix the known leaks correctly, yes they make brass fittings to replace the plastic ones. Secondly replace the packing material in both packing glands and adjust them correctly, the most likely source of water in the bilge BTW.

Leave the underwater gear alone your just asking for problems jacking with them until you know for a fact one of them is leaking, right now it's some ones hair brained idea it's the problem. All you have to do to check them is let it float in the water and look.


regarding the bilge it might need replaced or the fuse might be blown verify you have voltage at the pump and then go from there, if you have voltage then replace the pump, if no voltage look for a blown fuse, disconnected wire, bad switch.

79nautique wrote: fix the known leaks correctly, yes they make brass fittings to replace the plastic ones. Secondly replace the packing material in both packing glands and adjust them correctly, the most likely source of water in the bilge BTW. Leave the underwater gear alone your just asking for problems jacking with them until you know for a fact one of them is leaking, right now it's some ones hair brained idea it's the problem. All you have to do to check them is let it float in the water and look. regarding the bilge it might need replaced or the fuse might be blown verify you have voltage at the pump and then go from there, if you have voltage then replace the pump, if no voltage look for a blown fuse, disconnected wire, bad switch.

79nautique,

1. where do I get brass elbows to replace the plastic?

2. what are packing glands and where do i get packing gland materail?

3. bilge dash fuse is good. is there another fuse? worked fine for short while. pump does not look too old? i will test for current at pump.

go easy, like i said, i am learning. thanks for the help. Mark

Well, you need to really get the bilge pump working.    Maybe there is a short in the wiring (fuse possibly?), or maybe you actually need a new bilge pump.

As far as the other known 2 leaks, yes, fix those first, along with the bilge pump.

The manifold elbow should be readily available in brass. I have plastic ones on my 78, and mine are holding up perfectly, but if I were to replace them, it probably would be in brass as well. Check at a hardware store, otherwise any marine/ boat shop should have or be able to get them.
Mcmaster Carr always has everything you could need for fittings as well.

The freeze plug, is it in plain view? You might be able to stop the leak from that with some silicone, but ideally you should replace the plug.

Yes the freeze plug is visible. It is on the side, can't remember which one and about the size of quarter to half dollar.

I knew that would get a rise out of you two.

How predicatable. LOL

fwiw, I would simply replace the freeze plug.

It's the old "marina " trick again.   

I think that is what happened to the pump, it got full of water and then quit working. So maybe shorted out? Is there a temp fuse or is it fried? I never thought about filling the boat with water, that is a good idea. Boat is on a lift at boat dock but should be able to see the leak if full of water. Yes you have to watch what you say, there are plenty of jack leg mechanics who would actually try the silicon treatment. I have seen and read some crazy things that JB weld is used for. thanks for the help?

Should have been more specific. Water put in the boat would be a small amount to check through hull fittings like the rudder plate. for my leak I started with the shaft seal, rudder seal and then traced the water intake system and exhaust, all of which can be checked in the water with engine cover and rear floor removed.

Okay here is what you need to do. Buy 1000 highlighter pens, a blacklight, silicone, and a squirt gun. Take the fluorescent ink capsules out of all of the pens and throw them in the lake. This will dye your lake water with the fluorescent ink. Make sure you do this right before night time. Now... put the blacklight in the boat. Look carefully for the bright leak! Now take your squirt gun filled with silicone and quickly blast the area to seal it all up. You'll be good to go for another 1 or 2 days.   

I would think any hardware store will have the elbows, heck even the big box stores probably do.

You can buy the packing gland material (rope) from about any marine supplier.

Here is an example, just because I could find it quickly...but there are many sources.
http://www.skidim.com/products.asp?dept=1032

C-Bass wrote: Okay here is what you need to do. Buy 1000 highlighter pens, a blacklight, silicone, and a squirt gun. Take the fluorescent ink capsules out of all of the pens and throw them in the lake. This will dye your lake water with the fluorescent ink. Make sure you do this right before night time. Now... put the blacklight in the boat. Look carefully for the bright leak! Now take your squirt gun filled with silicone and quickly blast the area to seal it all up. You'll be good to go for another 1 or 2 days.

be sure to get the water friendly ink..