Water Hook up

Randy_in_Ohio wrote: Where is Ryan's strainer?

Edit: never mind what I had previously written, not paying attention...

Ryan, you shoudl get a strainer cup on there for sure.

Randy,
I didn't even read your post, but I'm pretty sure you're right. I just got finished sifting through an 83 PCM maintenance book I downloaded, and it doesn't have anything about a strainer.
I'll definitely have to look into that.

Take a picture of what hose you haver running into the cooler.

Also, the line running into your white plastic T. It has a brass fitting running into the T. What does that line run to?

BKH

Here's what I have running from the cooler of water. I used a plastic cup to prevent air from being sucked in through the grate... upon starting, no water was sucked in.
I also connected a hose directly to a faucet that powers a row of five sprinklers (plenty of pressure), and started the motor. Water was streaming out of the grate on the hull. That's not supposed to happen, is it?

Ryan with your current system as soon as you turn on the hose water will exit from water intake grate. When the motor starts the RAW pump will suck the water from the garden hose supply and the volume of water exiting the grate will diminish. The harder you rev the engine the RAW pump will demand more water from the garden hose supply.
The Perko flush system earlier in the post has a non return valve inside it that prevents any water exiting via the intake grate. In this situation the garden hose pressurises the system and force feeds the RAW pump.
I used to run a system like this with a non return valve between the water intake grate and the tee.
But simple is often better and after a earlier thread where TRBenj described his system I removed the non return valve and the system works fine. Excess water will just exit via the intake grate.

Correct the water that comes in through the RAW for engine cooling exits via the exhaust.

The procedure is turn on garden hose supply start engine let it run at idle making sure water is exiting via the exhaust before you start raising the revs. Do not wait to long before seeing water exiting from exhaust.

A working temp gauge is a must in a boat. You will need to sort this issue out as it has the potential to cause major engine problems (expensive problems).

This method proves the RAW pump is working to some extent. To properly test the efficiency of the RAW pump the "bucket test" is required. You would remove the hose from the top of your white tee place it in a bucket full of water. The garden hose is then turned on and put in the bucket also. With the engine running the RAW pump has to draw the water from the bucket just like it would do in the lake.

The whole idea of having the tee setup and quick hose connection is convenience. Making it simple to run the boat on the trailer to check engine running and make adjustments. I have a quick hose connect on mine with a tap. Can have it setup in seconds ready to run engine.

Mike- when I check the posts, it's usually in a hasty manner. I missed your post last night, but that's a great idea... I'm gonna use that as a quick fix so I can tune my carb.

Lewy- thanks again for the info and the pic. I'm definitely gonna have to fix my gauges (neither oil pressure or temp are working), that does seem kinda like playing with fire... I definitely don't want to ruin my motor!
As far as the test goes, I did it, but without the running hose in the bucket. This was to see if any water was diplaced from the bucket... None was.

Craig, maybe your pump needs to be primed. Maybe the 1-1/4" hose is partially to blame, but my 302 Conquerers have the larger hose as well and dont have any problems drawing water.

That is a quick fix that PCM suggested for early 1.23 trannys that had a hydraulic pump buzzing noise. It just serves as an accumulator. Right Eric?

[QUOTE=TRBenj] I guess the Flush-Pro is an OK device... but it seems overly expensive for what it is.

All I have to say is I have not had one issue with my Perko Flush Pro. I agree it is a little expensive for what it is, but I have the peace of mind of knowing it will work as intended every time. I also have the peace of mind knowing that if I forget to put the plug back on it and head to the lake I will still draw all of the water I need to cool my engine into my engine and none will be spilled into the bilge.

Sometimes I don't mind paying for someone elses engineering when it offers me those benefits.

Another solution is to rev the engine up to 3-4k rpms until it starts to pull suction on the water.

TRBenj wrote: Just FYI, Ive never had to prime my pumps- I install them dry and they always pull water.

Same with me. There's always enough A/F in there to lubricate/seal the rubber impeller to get the water sucked up.

If you drain only without A/F or have installed a new impeller, then it may be a different story. I'd pressurize the inlet to the RWP with the garden hose first. It will have enough pressure to get some water into the RWP. Just don't over do it!!

it stands for National Pipe Thread, the plumbing version standard thread callout for a taperd thread used in plumbing, They ahve them at lowes.

You are right on both accounts it is your transmission cooler and in this case it is your strainer as well since it is where you are going to collect anything sucked into your engine big enough to matter. It is preferred to have a strainer, and quite necessary in some areas... but there are a lot of boats out there without them.

TRBenj wrote: Ill go on the record one more time and say that I dont like any of the methods mentioned above. Fake-a-lake = cheesy. Can easily fall off, and sometimes the intake grate is located over a bunk on the trailer. If the RWP demands more flow than the hose can provide, you could collapse the hose and get zero water- frying the impeller and possibly overheating the engine. Same problem with putting a hose right on the tranny cooler- if the hose cant keep up with the demand of the RWP, you might run into problems. Plus, now youre messing with hose clamps- waste of time, IMHO. Im also not a fan of drawing antifreeze into the engine via the RWP... why not pour it in via the thermostat housing per the recommendation in the manual? I do both my Conquerer/Crusaders and PCM's like this. If it has a circ pump, you can pour it in! I guess the Flush-Pro is an OK device... but it seems overly expensive for what it is. My preferred method is a simple tee in the raw water line. Connects and disconnects in seconds- its the first "mod" I do to all of my boats- makes running on the hose a piece of cake. Theres no chance of collapsing a hose- if the RWP demands more flow than the hose can provide, it will just draw some air through the intake grate. Theres no load so you wont overheat, and theres plenty of water for the impeller to stay lubricated, so no problem with this. $15 in parts from Home Depot. [IMG]http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e260/TRBenj/strainer_hose.jpg">

Made this modification to my boat this weekend. Worked like a champ and highly recommend