Steering Cable Problem

Hi everyone. It's me again needing some help from my buddies at CCF. My boat is the 1975 Skiier from the thread "1975 Skier Stringer Replacement".

No problems with the stringer issues. Had a wonderful vacation. Went skiing today for the first time since the 11th. Rode around for about 15 minutes, went swimming a bit and then decided to ski. Pulled my son up and the boat immediately went left and would only go left. To make a long story short, I have no steering. My first thought was "Omg, my rudder fell off". I jumped in the water and thankfully that was not the case. I took the back panel off in front of the fuel tank and looked at the rudder assembly area below the tank and it looks perfect. I opened the access plate on the rear floor and felt the bracket that holds the steering cable thinking it had become unattached from the primary stringer and it was fine as well.

Under the dash, the steering wheel will move the cable in and out of the helm but it seems very free turning unlike two weeks ago when there was resistance. You can turn the steering wheel as much as you want and the cable will feed out without stopping which does not sound good to me.

I can post a picture of the area under the dash around the steering helm if you need me to.

Can anybody give me some direction to try and fix my problem? Thanks.

Scott

Pete,

If you turn the steering wheel, the rudder does not turn.

I would have to open the access plate behind the engine cover and look at the bracket at the stringer you are talking about.

If the cable broke, I think I have a big problem due to the way I put the old cable back together. I dread the thought of running a new cable based on how I put things back together.


Too hot and frustrated today to look at it. Maybe tomorrow afternoon if I don't have a CC bonfire before then.......

Scott,    marineengineparts.com
Teleflex SS C 61     117.85


Or if you do decide to go with the bonfire route, I'll take your Bimini.


AT

8122pbrainard wrote: srbranum wrote: Pete, If the cable broke, I think I have a big problem due to the way I put the old cable back together. I dread the thought of running a new cable based on how I put things back together.    What's different? I went back and looked at your stringer thread because I really couldn't remember anything real weird about your steering cable routing. What i did see is it's pretty normal. Up to the bulkhead between the main stringers and then through one of the pieces of flex tubing you put in running up to under the deck. Is this correct? If so, you shouldn't have a problem. Tie the old to the new and then pull the old out pulling in the new one.

Pete,

If I remember myself, the reason I think I will have a problem is that the cable is NOT inside the pvc tubing with the wiring and the throttle and transmission cable. It is running beside the tubing, through the small amount of foam I used and through the bulkhead and then back to the rudder. If I get a new cable, I guess I would just have to cut the other one off at a convenient spot and run the new one thru the tubing???

I will take some pictures and post for you to look at.

Again, everyone on this website should be proud to always give advise to others without any expectatations in return and it is always appreciated.

scott

so, I guess I'm not getting the bimini.


AT

DrCC wrote: so, I guess I'm not getting the bimini. AT

Check with me about mid week..........

8122pbrainard wrote: Scott, When you turn the helm, does the rudder move? If not, one of two things. Ether the cable broke and then check that the tube at the stringer isn't slipping in the clamp. Since there's no resistance, I'd say the cable broke.

Being a novice at this, how exactly does a steel cable break? And, is this pretty commom or did I do something to make it break? Could it be off it's track in the helm? I doubt this because the helm is apparently doing it's job by working the cable in and out when I turn the steering wheel.

Scott,   yes, breaking old cables is too common.   That cable (above)should fit your T-helm. Comes with the threaded style adapter.
Should be a simple install (back to front) meaning, pull it forward with one of your pull lines.
My only concern would be, if you changed the wiring/cable tube to a sharper angle.   That's the reason you can't pull a new cable in while pulling the old cable out. The transom end of the cable will not pass through the wiring/cable tube.   Could this be the reason you re-installed yours beside the tube?


AT

Nope, you'll never get a steering cable thru your 90*

Just went back and saw your foam pics. Your right!!! Cable won't come out without a fight!

The only thing I would suggest at this point is some creative foam carving and digging.


AT

I almost hate to say it, but these are exactly the sort of issues that could have been prevented by doing a little research and not rushing into a project with a major deadline approaching. Your determination and final project were very impressive, especially considering your restraints (namely time), but running the steering cable through the foam without conduit? Oh man. These might be good things to add to your original rebuild thread as sort of a "lessons learned" so people who use it as a future reference might not fall into the same trap. But I digress...

Ideally you would want a 16' steering cable for your 16' boat. The 17' will work, but will be a bit longer than you need. This is a generic rotary Teleflex cable- the last time I bought one from Go2Marine, it was ~$95. It looks like youre replacing the original cable, so you may also need a clevis kit to attach it to your tiller arm. I have posted the part number here before, though I dont know it off the top of my head. I cant tell if you can reuse the clamp tube off your old cable- but you may need one of those as well. Try the search function, that info is on here somewhere.

I looked back at your old thread and cant see what the conduit tube that you used for the wiring, etc looks like. Was it the same as the ones you used for the vents? If so, thats not *too* sharp of a radius, and I would try to get the new cable through it. I sure wouldnt run it through the foam again- thats just a disaster waiting to happen. I would make every effort to reseal the holes at both ends once the old cable is removed to prevent water getting under your fresh floor.

As far as the rear panel goes, you probably mimicked the original install pretty closely. That being said, the original setup isnt very good. All modern (1980+) panels simply "float", meaning they dont screw down. Theyre also carpeted separately from the rest of the floor, so they truly are removable- which is necessary to do any maintainance in the bilge (replace packing, exhaust hose, etc). I would recommend you cut the carpet, remove the screws, seal up the holes and reinstall the panel without them. Add some T carpet trim to hide the seams.

Wow I feel or you. I attached my steering cable a few hours ago and am getting ready to hook up the steering column. It was all fun and games till you have to make it work. I am stressed but have pushed back my launch date a dozen times now as I run into difficulties. Good luck!

Scott, I also would try to fish new cable in the conduit.I could only remove mine pulling from the back so I would try to push new one up to the helm. It might help to remove throttle and shift cables and wiring. Also if you had to maybe cut down into the conduit where the steering cable binds with a sawzall to make the bend and possibly patch it back up with a smaller piece of 1" cut in half lengthwise. Then cut and abandon old cable. Just some thoughts Good luck and keep us posted. Monty

Scott,   Yes, the 16' (192") would be the proper cable, However, in your situation you might be glad you have the 17' (204")    Any identifying markings on the cable will be in inches.
I suppose I should have gave you both prices and let you decide which one you preferred.

Question: How many big brass screws did you put in the rear floor section?

From your pic, it shows you carpeted it separately. Slowly and carefully, with a putty knife, peel back the carpet.   The glue is still fairly fresh, so this should not be too much of a problem.
If you feel you need or want to screw the floor back down, all you would need is 4.   Oval head stainless with finish washers, on top of the carpet. Front two- hidden under the motor box. Back two- hidden behind the rear panel. Or if your motor box hinges line-up directly above the stringers, only one longer screw in each hinge.

Ok, Up front.   I'm assuming I see 3" white PVC schedule 40?
This is why I say a steering cable will not pass through a 3" PVC 90*.

I personally would dig out the old cable and install a flex tube just for the steering cable.


AT

DrCC wrote: Ok, Up front.   I'm assuming I see 3" white PVC schedule 40? This is why I say a steering cable will not pass through a 3" PVC 90*.

Wouldnt this be dependant on the size of the radius on the 90* fitting? I agree that a short 90 wont work well, but he has some pretty big bends in his vent hoses. I cant see what his conduit looks like from the pictures he posted previously.

For anyone else reading this, I used a 4" PVC conduit on my Tique with a 45* fitting and feeding cables through it was a breeze. We're using 2 large radius 45* fittings (again, 4") on the BFN.

for you to be able to pass the cable through that 90 you will have to feed the helm end of the cable from the bilge side of the tube to even have a chance, I think it'll be fine little tight but should work ok.