pertronix debate

read the instructions that came with the unit. It will tell you exactly how to test and install, some can be bypassed, others need the ballast resistor. It all depends on the system voltage and resistance for your case, not what someone else has or what they did, coils have different resitances values and thus will effect the voltage that the system has as a whole has. Bottom line you can have it either way, but bypassing the resistor on one that needs the resistor is going to shorten the life of the components and leave you stranded because you have feed the distributor to much voltage and it has shorted out. The ballast resistor effects the coil's output very little, but limits what voltage the distributor's electroincs see. So get a multimeter and test your systems voltage according to the instructions and you won't have a problem in the long run.

I have a brand new Mallory unilite distributor with optical pick-up and run a ballast resistor.

Hi
I installed a pertronix breakerless point system on my Chrysler 383.
From memory this is what the installation instructions say.
After installing the pertronix pickup in the distributer,it will have a Red and Black wire comming from the distributer this must be connected to 12 volt supply.
Red to +12volts, black to ground.

Since you are no longer using points, a ballast resistor is only needed if you coil requires it.

The type of coil that you are using is what determines if you require a external ballast resistor or not.

eg: If you are using you existing coil and it had a ballast resistor in series with it, you must continue to use the ballast resistor.

If you are going to buy a new coil you have the option of buy a coil that does not require a external ballast resistor. This will work also.

Main this is that you must supply the pertronix pickup with 12volts supply before it goes through the ballast resistor other it will give you problems.

79 is right on. Read the instuctions for your particular kit. They could be different. BTW, some coils have built-in resistors. If your Pertronix instuctions suggest removing or jumpering out the ballast resistor I would not use a coil with a built-in resistor. Use a coil that requires a ballast resistor and then do not use the resistor per the Pertronix instructions.

woodboy where are you located in N. IN?

I spent a week in LaPorte Ind. two years ago. Man was it cold - they have a very nice bar/resturant downtown however. We had to leave the bar early one night because of a storm coming in off the lake. Snow was blowing sideways. Craziest thing I ever saw.

Hey Yak. How did it turn out?

Well, I finished with the wiring harness yesterday. I now have the prestolite electronic iginition conversion kit in and the new alternator with the internal regulator. As soon as I turned the key it started. This never happens to me, I'll do some repairs, forget to connect something, then get it to work right. I also found that the old alternator was not grounded. I talked to Vince at skidim tech support and he said that a lot of those were built with out the ground wire because they assumed the bracket would ground it. So I put a wire on it anyways. The only problem I'm having now is that it idles at 1000-1100 rpm. Checked the throttle cable linkage, idle screw. Reset the idle mixture screws. Still don't know, I couldn't detect any vacuum leaks around the base of the carb, or from the pcv/egr valve. The only thing I can think of is that something within the carb is messed up. So, it looks like a holley rebuild kit for me. The fun never ends. If anyone has any questions on it, lemme know. I can send you some wiring diagrams too.

If not already done, put on a vacuum gauge to rule out a vacuum leak or other problem. And check the timing.

79 - I did not state that....

In my humble opinion, it is important to verify that there is no vacuum leak.

I'm not back in town till thursday, but i'll try that stuff then, thanks for the feedback.

I checked the timing, its 8deg TDC which i think is what it's supposed to be at, I'm back in town tonight, so i'll check it then. When I check the timing, I just line up the mark, check that it's on the compression stroke and check the distributor to make sure it's on one.

well, i checked it with a timing light and it was dead on. Replaced the PVC/PCV(whatever), sprayed wd40 all around the carb, and no leaks. One thing I did notice is that the throttle plate is bent to the side. Don't know if the way it's bent would affect the rpm, but it's worth a shot.