Show me your garage

Pete, that is a really nice shop! I know you are excited. FWIW, regarding the fiber in the concrete. I have poured two garages with fiber reinforced concrete and painted them with epoxy paint. The acid wash and scrubbing in the epoxy prep work seems to take care of the fibers, and the paint goes over without issue.

I have painted several shops/garages. From what I have found the only difference in the commercial and residential epoxy paints is the acid used to clean the concrete. The residential uses citric and the commercial, I believe uses a stronger acid, maybe muriatic. I have gotten the best results by doing two coats of paint, second coat after a day of drying. If using paint chips, throw them into the second coat, and dont do too big of an area at a time, as the chips are hard to throw more than a couple of feet! I paint, and the wife and kids take turns decorating with paint chips.

Pete,

So you decided to go standing seam on the roof, awesome! There does not appear to be any ice/snow shield in the pics?

Looking great, thanks to Charlie for keeping us visually involved!

8122pbrainard wrote: Ernest, Thanks! Yes, I getting pretty excited about having a decent shop. For years it's been off the tailgate of the truck for small projects that needed to be done up there. Now I can start on the bigger ones!! Now the only problem is something called my job and work! Regarding the floor, you're correct on the muriatic and citric acid. Muriatic can get quite nasty and the average homeowner shouldn't be messing with it. I've delt with quite alot of floor coatings here at the plant. There is a major difference between residential and industrial. The residentials are just epoxy paint whereas the industrial I plan on using is a high solids epoxy coating. It even requires a epoxy primer. (etching as well) We've got one area that's been down for over 10 years, get's plenty of fork lift traffic and even some steel wheel traffic. It's held up very well. A epoxy garage floor paint wouldn't.

Pete,
I am considering redoing my shop floor. Lots of heavy traffic. Auto lift, fuel, brake fluid, etc. What is the brand of floor paint yo are going to use? It may be just what I need. The residential has not come up, just worn out.

The quote just came in from WPS on the new gas and electric service to the shop. Actually, I was expecting worse due to the fact these are secondary services to the same property. Usually they just "nail" you full price on theses second services. Just under $1000 for the electric and only $168 for the gas line. Both lines will be coming up my existing driveway from the road in the same trench then to both meter locations as planned. Yup, the onsite meeting with my electrician worked!! BTW, they'll have well over 1K of copper in the install alone!! Has anyone priced out heavier gauges of copper lately?? The Chinese have got the prices jacked way up!!!

Ernest,
The painting contractor has started on the job so I'll be talking with them. I need to pick out some colors so they just aren't guessing at general color names. I'll be emailing them so I'll bring up the concrete floor coating subject with them.

Getting more done!!

Chuck,
Thanks!! The frustrating part of this project is you happen to be seeing it more than I!!!

I've confirmed the exterior paint color scheme with the painter. Didi and I love it but of course "Miss" Darcy being the art teacher major doesn't!! We're going all gray/white shades. Starting with the standing seam roof being a charcoal gray and the fake scissor trusses on the gable ends will be the same as well as the shutters. (shutters very much needed to offset the large wall areas) Then soffit, fascia, corner boards and window/door casing will be white. (windows are clad white and the doors are fiberglass coming in with prepaint white - OH door too) The batten on board siding will be all a light/neutral shade of grey.

I'm happy to see Terry also Tyvek wrapped it. Not on the spec sheet due to the R-Board sheathing. Also of interest is he does not use rafter ventilation chutes. Instead, he actually uses (photos to confirm but real dark) rigid foam board, He nails a 1" spacer just at the top of the of the upper cord of the truss and then staples the foam to it. Lot's of labor but I certainly feel worth the effort. Even though I went with trusses with "energy heels", thats always the weak point of a high R ceiling insulation system. The foam adds at least a R 5 to the heal area.

I'm sorry to hear that you're going to miss out on all the fun of installing the dust ducting. It sure would have been nice to have a true "pipe fitter (union guy)" around to help out. Sometimes those family trip to the in-laws do get in the way!

BTW, We got a very nice note from Liz today - thank her for me for sending it. Very thoughtful.

Very nice! I'm sure you are anxious to get some activities going in there. BTW, how are the water levels in your next of the woods? We've got plenty to spare... the SNOB tried getting loose last night!

Tom,
Thanks for backing up the choice to go with the fiber. Good to hear coming from another professional in the field.

Here are a few more shots of the progress on Pete's new shop.....looking good!

Yes.....but most of the time I'll be over at Crandon.....Footstock weekend.

Pete, how much weight are you able to hang from those W beams?   I wish I had thought of that when I built my garage....   I've considered a retrofit, with steel posts and a beam slightly offset from center, but haven't done anything yet...

so what is supporting those I-beams Pete? is there and outer block wall that is covers and supporting them? The one over the door's header scares me. Are the supported from above by the trusses?

Pete, this is quite a garage you're building. Architech designed and it's even got custom cabinets from 62Wood. How's it compare with the quality of the house? Probably a lot better? I got a feeling pay back time from your wife in a year or two is going to be costly.

8122pbrainard wrote: I'm not worried at all. I went through all the calculations before CQ put my plans on CAD!!

yea but did he translate the file and use Ansys and load it and do an FEA analisys?

I didn't think it actually was attached from up top didn't see a cross brace running across so that you could attach it. Yes the E-lam stuff is good and strong as long as it's never compromised anywhere, just used to a little beefier support columns on the headers I'm sure it's just the camera angle and maybe the wrap covering them up some that makes it look smaller.

New carport to replace what you lost in the storm Marty? Did you go a little bigger?

john