Pic request - Boat Stands

I'm hoping to get some design ideas for building some boat stands. I've seen several good ones on the site but they are scattered in there respective build threads. I just don't have hours to scan through all the different threads. Figured it might not be a bad thing to have a thread dedicated to them since just about anyone doing a stringer job will need some.

Thanks!

-Ryan

I kept mine on the trailer but supplemented the support with these so that all the pressure was off the springs. Unless all that wood was free these are probably cheaper.



Harbor Freight

Keegan,

The smaller hulls are very thick and strong so you can get away with that. The concern is that on some of the larger hulls like the 2001 you can get an Oil Can Effect if you remove all four stringers at once. I you do them one at a time you have less of a chance of an Oil Can effect. This is why Bufflo gave his V-Hull Barefoot more support. The first generation SN Hulls have a thicker amount of glass put into the mold.

You did a great job on your build. You should be proud.

I am a hobbiest and not a professional. However, I am a pro at Beer drinking.

Donald

Donald80SN wrote: Keegan, The smaller hulls are very thick and strong so you can get away with that. The concern is that on some of the larger hulls like the 2001 you can get an Oil Can Effect if you remove all four stringers at once. I you do them one at a time you have less of a chance of an Oil Can effect. This is why Bufflo gave his V-Hull Barefoot more support. The first generation SN Hulls have a thicker amount of glass put into the mold. Donald

Valid point. I did not see what kind of boat he was trying to support, but he was wanting a thread dedicated to boat stands.

Reading back it does sound like I am dissing Buffalo, but I am not. As he said he said he did get some poking fun comments about them already because of the level of craftsmanship being above normal human capabilities.

My jack stand in the front was so janky looking that I did not post the picture of it here but it got me through

Roger, It sure doesn't surprise me seeing all that MDF! I like them. Nice work and once again the "OCD" thought went into them!!

Greg,
Way back I believe I did work you over about your stands. However, it was for the craftsmanship that went into them!

Scrap lumber? What, do you have a lumber yard next door and they throw their scrap over in your yard??      

where do you girls find the time?

Ryan, if you can make a quality sub box then you have half the battle won already. I'm hoping to make some gel repairs this winter or I'd say come get 'em. If you're working inside, then it may work anyway. I'm in an open garage, so I won't need them when it's cold out.

YooperSully wrote: [QUOTE=BuffaloBFN] I took some ribbing for these, but they worked pretty well. The tops pivot and have 2" of vertical adjustment. They look like different heights but not adjustable.

I know the pictures are pretty but you gotta read too.

Keeganino wrote: YooperSully wrote: [QUOTE=BuffaloBFN] I took some ribbing for these, but they worked pretty well. The tops pivot and have 2" of vertical adjustment. They look like different heights but not adjustable. I know the pictures are pretty but you gotta read too.

No time for your crap, sorry

"They look like different heights but not adjustable."

This is an observation. Get it?.... Stay with me.... now.


"I was curious if you could post some more pics of your stands?"

I can't tell how these adjust 2 but maybe keegan you can show me the quote where it tells me this.

A picture is worth a thousand words. But if your going to add nonsense to this topic then I'd say a picture is worth 10,000 words.

I'm mechanically inclined and have been in the building trades since 1992. But still can't see where the two inches of travel come in unless it's in the pivot itself. Hence the question for more pictures.

In my post I ask 4 questions. Maybe you can point out where I should have read to get the answers in Greg's original post.

I also believe your intentions are none other than selfish. As you say "the writing is on the wall"

With anything it boils down to interpretation and I'd say your lost in translation.

Better yet Keegs, why don't you tell me how they travel 2" seems like you have all the answers.
With no comments or questions pointed at you to begin with I'd have to say your poking your nose in where your 2 cents is not needed.

Keegan.. Some words of wisdom for you.

It's better to keep your mouth shut and let others think your a fool then to open your mouth and prove that your one.

HOLD ON!!!! on proof reading my post I notice your the guy that supports his boat with cement blocks laying on their side. LMAO keep up the shady practices and you'll be doing a lot of boat repair. Maybe even a little human body repair. For your information a block on it's side has no structural support. I get a kick out of the jack stands sitting above the open web. Like I said before, a picture is worth a 1000 words and your picture paints you an amateur.

Don't worry I had you in mind the whole time I was writing this

I believe that Greg place two inch slots the heads. The heads can swivel around the retaining bolt, or slide up or down two inches. Locks them in place by cranking down on the retaining bolt.

I built mine with a six inch or so adjustments. Heads mounted to a two by four which slides up and down in the stand structure. Heads swivels around the two by four. My home PC is at repair right now, so I can find any photos at the moment.

BKH

I just left mine on the trailer. Blocked the trailer up level under the axle.
Jacked up the back of the boat up, put a 2x4 block on each rail under the rear. Then jacked up the front cut a notch in a block to set the bow eye in with a 4x4 across the trailer frame. Then cut wedges and shimmed down the sides between the rails leveling the boat side to side fore and aft.

gun-driver wrote: I just left mine on the trailer. Blocked the trailer up level under the axle. Jacked up the back of the boat up, put a 2x4 block on each rail under the rear. Then jacked up the front cut a notch in a block to set the bow eye in with a 4x4 across the trailer frame. Then cut wedges and shimmed down the sides between the rails leveling the boat side to side fore and aft.