86 SN rebuild |
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gun-driver
Grand Poobah Joined: July-18-2008 Location: Pittsburgh, Pa Status: Offline Points: 4127 |
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Jeff,
I would get a at least the step layering done before bedding the main and maybe even a couple of full layers over the top. There’s a lot more room to work, once you get the main in it gets tight to work, especially in the space where the exhaust pipe's lay. |
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Ranger
Senior Member Joined: August-23-2010 Location: San Diego Status: Offline Points: 151 |
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Keegan, thanks for the reply.
That's great about your stepson. My son hasn't ridden a kneeboard yet, but is already saving for one. I told him that if he saved enough for half, I would kick in the balance. As far as reels or ropes, here is my weekend plan! Wake up at 4:30, be out at first light with the reels. Catch as many as we can. Go in around 9:00. Leave at 10:00 with the nautique to ski, float, ski, and relax. Take a nap at 2:00. Go back out at 4:30. Fish the evening bite, then do it all over again the next day. Sounds good doesn't it? Come Monday, I will try to catch up on my sleep at work Jeff |
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Keeganino
Grand Poobah Joined: October-27-2009 Location: North Carolina Status: Offline Points: 2063 |
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You are moving really fast and it looks great. I bedded my stringers on one side. Made sure they were level to the other side and then pulled the other side out and bedded those before glassing.
My stepson who is also 9 rode the kneeboard for the first time yesterday and is hooked! He is already talking about a wakeboard for Christmas. You guys will have to decide soon whether to grab the reels or the ropes! You never know which one will getcha hooked. |
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"working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger
1973 Skier |
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Ranger
Senior Member Joined: August-23-2010 Location: San Diego Status: Offline Points: 151 |
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No, I'm not going with foam.
All of the stringers are being made out of 2X fir. The blocks and built up areas will be out of 1X fir. I bought the lumber from a local yard who had some very nice material. They would of ordered me some vertical grain stock, but I thought the stuff they had was good enough. Actually the grain pattern was close to vertical on most of the pieces anyway. Jeff |
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Matt R.
Newbie Joined: September-18-2010 Location: Bryan, OH Status: Offline Points: 28 |
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Jeff looks good are you planning on using foam on the sides of secondary stringers ? and where did you get the wood and what kind of wood are you using? thanks
Matt. |
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Matt R.
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Ranger
Senior Member Joined: August-23-2010 Location: San Diego Status: Offline Points: 151 |
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We started around 2:00 and completed the fillets on the secondary and finished grinding the hull. At least it looks like we are making progress. A couple of things to note, were the bilge bump pad and rudder log were wet.
While grinding in front of the pylon cup, I hit an area where water was still setting. It looked like it was coming around the pylon mount, which started at the bilge pump pad. The more I grinded, the more pockets I found. It was enough water that I had to stop and soak it up with rags. Also while grinding around the rudder log, I found several air pockets. As I dug deeper, some still had water in them. The rudder log is not rotted, but does look like it was wet a time or two. So out it will come. Question: What has some of you done about the bilge pump pad. I'm not really sold on the idea of laminating wood into the hull, just to put a couple of small screws in. I've come to the conclusion that anyone who thinks their pre 93 natique is solid, is just fooling themselfs. The design of these boats simply allow too many entry points and you really do not have any idea until you start grinding and cutting. Now that we have the secondary bedded, I am hoping that I can get the main scribed to the hull before the weekend. It would be great to get the main in this Saturday. This brings up another question. What do you think about bedding all of the stringers before doing the glass work? Thanks for everyone's help. Jeff |
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Ranger
Senior Member Joined: August-23-2010 Location: San Diego Status: Offline Points: 151 |
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Well that would depend on where you are looking. Since I am going with a plywood deck, the secondary stringer and main are at the same height with the exception of the cradle area. The cradle is below the deck height, so the secondary is taller in that particular area.
Jeff |
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gun-driver
Grand Poobah Joined: July-18-2008 Location: Pittsburgh, Pa Status: Offline Points: 4127 |
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Jeff, is it an optical illusion or is the new secondary stringer higher than the main?
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Ranger
Senior Member Joined: August-23-2010 Location: San Diego Status: Offline Points: 151 |
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We had another great day and ended up getting more done than planned. We started this morning with bedding our first stringer. Everything went as planned. I dry fitted the ribs again and set a torpedo level on one of them. It wasn't even close. I scrambled to figure out what happened and decided I better scribe it in again. Nothing was going right. I finally figured out that I was using a different level than I usually use. I grabbed another level and all of the others were dead on. I ended up melting the thing with a torch and threw in the can. So, I now have one rib that I cut too short. Not a big deal, but I will need to get a little more material to recut a new one.
So, I went ahead and bedded the remaining ribs. After they set up, I decided to start cutting the driver’s side main. What a mess. The entire stringer from the bow to the stern was wet. I managed to keep most of it intact, but it popped right out. I went ahead and started grinding the hull which I have almost done. I’m hoping that I can finish the grinding tomorrow, clean up the bedded stringer and maybe complete all of the fillets on the starboard secondary. This might be a tall task, since my boy has a baseball game tomorrow at 10:00, but we will give it a shot. Here are the pictures! |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Jody, Did the boat repair shop on "Pawn Stars" get that saying from Florida Inboards?? You do seem to take on some "high end" projects! |
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Ranger
Senior Member Joined: August-23-2010 Location: San Diego Status: Offline Points: 151 |
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Thanks for all of the replies.
I am planning on routing a 1/4 edge on the secondary stringer tonight and giving it a first coat of CPES. So, if all goes as well, I will bed the secondary on Saturday and pull the starboard main on Sunday. If I wait until Sunday, the epoxy bedded stringer will have plenty of time to cure. Jeff |
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Fl Inboards
Grand Poobah Joined: January-20-2008 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 2130 |
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B: Bust
O: Out A: Another T: Thousand |
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Hobby Boats can be expensive when the hobbyist is limited on their own skill and expertise.
1993 Shamrock "fat" 20. 2008 Nautique 196 5.0 |
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Matt R.
Newbie Joined: September-18-2010 Location: Bryan, OH Status: Offline Points: 28 |
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Keep up the good talk! Just purchased a 80 SN..process of doing secondary stringer repair. New at this...first boat owner. Any info about chemicals, wood etc. please let me know!
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Matt R.
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MI-nick
Gold Member Joined: January-12-2009 Location: Ypsilanti, MI Status: Offline Points: 815 |
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more likely than not a rebuild of this magnitude is in my future...i really appreciate all the details and photos...keep up the good work
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As far as I can tell, I'm not quite sure...
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Hollywood
Moderator Group Joined: February-04-2004 Location: Twin Lakes, WI Status: Offline Points: 13520 |
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I recall a discussion of that in TRBenj's BFN thread.
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Keeganino
Grand Poobah Joined: October-27-2009 Location: North Carolina Status: Offline Points: 2063 |
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From what people have said it seems that a mixture of the 2 makes a very strong, easy to use consistency. While the milled fiber makes it stronger the cab thickens better so you are probably right about the fillets. I repaired my bucket seats before I bedded or filleted anything which gave me a chance to experiment with it before I got to the real part. I found that the bilge side fillets are the hardest to do because it slopes downhill so you have to be sure you make the mixture extra thick there.
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"working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger
1973 Skier |
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Ranger
Senior Member Joined: August-23-2010 Location: San Diego Status: Offline Points: 151 |
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Thanks Keegan for the advice. I'll start with a 50/50 ratio and see what it looks like.
I have seen people say they use cabosil and others say they used mil fiber. Isn't the mil fiber better for bedding and cabosil for the fillets? Jeff |
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SNobsessed
Grand Poobah Joined: October-21-2007 Location: IA Status: Offline Points: 7102 |
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Tim - Funny you mentioned this. On my previous (OB)boat I rebuilt the transom, which included a 'drain pit'. Since I had previous trouble with water & mice getting up into my foam (up under the floor) I glued in some PVC tubing in the bulkheads & used those small cam-lock drain plugs. |
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“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”
Ben Franklin |
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37N122W
Groupie Joined: December-15-2008 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 83 |
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Nice progress Jeff!
With regards to draining into the bilge, why not find some rubber stoppers that could block water and junk from going either way until you pull them to let it all dry out? That way, you've got control of what may or may not get in there. Keep them in place while the boat is in use, then pull them in the winter to let it all air out. For what it's worth, most of the sail boats I've worked on have inspection ports into any area of the hull that isn't open. Like TRBen built in. |
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"It never gets easier, you just go faster." Greg LeMond
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storm34
Grand Poobah Joined: November-03-2008 Location: Dexter Iowa Status: Offline Points: 4493 |
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I was just saying it has be convenient to put openings under the stringers where they meet the transom. ( as long as they are sealed properly.)
I haven't had any problems with getting wanter out of the boat. But I'm sure it would be a pain of it lived on a lift and I couldn't pull the plug on the ramp. |
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Ranger
Senior Member Joined: August-23-2010 Location: San Diego Status: Offline Points: 151 |
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I think my last questions got passed over. But, can anyone give me a hint on the mixing ratio for adding mil fiber to epoxy and what is the optimum consistency? (Bedding the secondary’s) I am also thinking about 4 or 5 cinder blocks as weight. Will that be enough?
Also, I just received a brand new DUI distributor. I'm about to open the box, which will be the highlight of my day. I love the UPS girl! Thanks again, Jeff |
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Keeganino
Grand Poobah Joined: October-27-2009 Location: North Carolina Status: Offline Points: 2063 |
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I was told equal amounts filler and resin, but to really get it thick it seemed to take more than that using the cabosil. A firm peanut butter consistency will make it easier for the epoxy to fill any gaps. It gets runnier as it starts to kick so keep that in mind. I used a lot more weight than a few cinder blocks, but 6 or 8 blocks would surely do it. |
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"working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger
1973 Skier |
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TRBenj
Grand Poobah Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21194 |
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Chris, really interesting. I know foam was an option on the early glass hulls- maybe when I had read it became "standard", that was a model-specific thing. Interesting, as I would have thought it was safety driven. As far as the transom drain goes, I thought you meant it was located outbound of the main stringers... but Im still surprised they didnt put a regular hull drain on it. It doesnt seem like that would be anywhere near the low point unless the boat were put on an incline... what a PITA!
Edit: Maybe Im confused... what exactly were you suggesting he do with regards to the drain? Use some sort of drain plug on his stringers like you have on the transom? Thats not such a bad idea, but it assumes that all the water would run to one common point. Not sure where the water forward of the engine bulkhead would be able to drain unless you were to add a plug there too. |
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storm34
Grand Poobah Joined: November-03-2008 Location: Dexter Iowa Status: Offline Points: 4493 |
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Jeff, sorry for the thread jack....just seemed like it could be a viable option if you wanted to have access to the outer sides of the mains for your cradle.
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storm34
Grand Poobah Joined: November-03-2008 Location: Dexter Iowa Status: Offline Points: 4493 |
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Tim, remember, the first gen skier was a bare bones version of the stang hull from the 60's. From all the research I've done the slant 6, no foam and other left out features made this an entry level boat. I do believe the transom drain is original....since it's the only on in the boat! The few first gen skier's I've seen came with the same drain location.
I agree, keep it out in the first place. In my case, the floor was wrapped in the "wall paper" covering material then screwed down into the primaries and secondaries. This allows me to pull them in the winter and replace (not that I would ever need to). |
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TRBenj
Grand Poobah Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21194 |
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Jeff, no offense taken. I do think that if you can guarantee your boat will never get a piece of debris in the bilge then you will be fine... I must use my boats too much be at that comfort level. Like I said, Im in the minority with this- just something to think about.
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Ranger
Senior Member Joined: August-23-2010 Location: San Diego Status: Offline Points: 151 |
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TRBenj,
As I read my above post, it might seem as though I was suggested that you didn't take care of your equipment. It certainly wasn't my intent. What I intended to say was that if I keep the bilge area clean, the leaves and debris shouldn't be an issue. You make a good case with regards to foam. I certainly would rather have a place to get the water out, then nothing at all. Something to ponder! Jeff |
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TRBenj
Grand Poobah Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21194 |
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Yes, I have to admit Pete that a dryer sheet or 2 (my critter detterant during winter storage) has escaped my attention. And yes, I have found leaves in my bilge too. Maybe its because I winterize during the FALL, instead of the summer. |
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Ranger
Senior Member Joined: August-23-2010 Location: San Diego Status: Offline Points: 151 |
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I do have another question. They seem to never end. Since I plan on bedding the secondary this weekend, can anyone give me a hint on the mixing ratio for adding mil fiber to epoxy and what is the optimum consistency? I am also thinking about 4 or 5 cinder blocks as weight. Will that be enough?
Thanks again, Jeff |
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TRBenj
Grand Poobah Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21194 |
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Chris, the whole point is to not allow water under the floor in the first place! I do not intend to have to drain, ever... but in case I do, I can. Basically the same as a foam rebuild, except you can get the water out if it finds its way in. It seems like inviting it up there via the bilge is asking for trouble... all it would take is a misplaced dryer sheet or a few errant leaves to block a drain located out of reach and youre in trouble. I dont neglect my stuff either, but things like that make their way into my bilges from time to time. Maybe Im alone on this one, but draining 50 gallons of water from a '65 CC with a plugged drain was not a pretty sight.
As far as no-foam constuction and a drain hole in the transom being factory work in 1970, I have a pretty hard time believing it. My understanding is that foam became standard equipment around the '66-67 timeframe. Ive yet to see a CC with a drain plug like that... maybe someone here can clarify. |
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