86 SN rebuild

Fl Inboards wrote: B: Bust O: Out A: Another T: Thousand

Jody,
Did the boat repair shop on "Pawn Stars" get that saying from Florida Inboards?? You do seem to take on some "high end" projects!

Jeff, is it an optical illusion or is the new secondary stringer higher than the main?

We started around 2:00 and completed the fillets on the secondary and finished grinding the hull. At least it looks like we are making progress. A couple of things to note, were the bilge bump pad and rudder log were wet.

While grinding in front of the pylon cup, I hit an area where water was still setting. It looked like it was coming around the pylon mount, which started at the bilge pump pad. The more I grinded, the more pockets I found. It was enough water that I had to stop and soak it up with rags.

Also while grinding around the rudder log, I found several air pockets. As I dug deeper, some still had water in them. The rudder log is not rotted, but does look like it was wet a time or two. So out it will come.

Question: What has some of you done about the bilge pump pad. I'm not really sold on the idea of laminating wood into the hull, just to put a couple of small screws in.

I've come to the conclusion that anyone who thinks their pre 93 natique is solid, is just fooling themselfs. The design of these boats simply allow too many entry points and you really do not have any idea until you start grinding and cutting.






Now that we have the secondary bedded, I am hoping that I can get the main scribed to the hull before the weekend. It would be great to get the main in this Saturday.

This brings up another question. What do you think about bedding all of the stringers before doing the glass work?

Thanks for everyone's help.

Jeff

No, I'm not going with foam.

All of the stringers are being made out of 2X fir. The blocks and built up areas will be out of 1X fir. I bought the lumber from a local yard who had some very nice material. They would of ordered me some vertical grain stock, but I thought the stuff they had was good enough. Actually the grain pattern was close to vertical on most of the pieces anyway.


Jeff

Keegan, thanks for the reply.

That's great about your stepson. My son hasn't ridden a kneeboard yet, but is already saving for one. I told him that if he saved enough for half, I would kick in the balance.

As far as reels or ropes, here is my weekend plan! Wake up at 4:30, be out at first light with the reels. Catch as many as we can. Go in around 9:00. Leave at 10:00 with the nautique to ski, float, ski, and relax. Take a nap at 2:00. Go back out at 4:30. Fish the evening bite, then do it all over again the next day. Sounds good doesn't it?

Come Monday, I will try to catch up on my sleep at work

Jeff

Jeff,
As far as the bilge pump pad goes, it should only be enough extra layers of glass to hold the pump down with the short screws. No wood necessary. You're movin' right along with the build! I've got the motor assembled, and everything glassed in except the floor pieces on the '77 SN. (I know, pictures!) I hope to paint the bilge and drop the motor back in next weekend, then I'll feel like I'm getting close. My goal is to get it in the water just in time to winterize it.

Jeff,
There is ply under the glass for the bilge mounts. And it will trap water!!




I ground mine out then leveled with epoxy and used a couple uf dabs from a hot glue gun to attach the pump strainer. Worked great and no screws!!

hmmm, must be a 6L. sorry to hear about that Ranger. Such a common issue I can't believe Ford turns a blind eye to it.

you were making great progress on the boat, I'm sure you'll get back to it in no time. On the pump mount, I was thinking you could just use some 4200 to glue a small scrap of HDPE then screw the pump to that. Its probably the way I'm going to go on mine.

Bremsen wrote: On the pump mount, I was thinking you could just use some 4200 to glue a small scrap of HDPE then screw the pump to that. Its probably the way I'm going to go on mine.

I thought about doing something along those lines but wanted the pump to be at the lowest point.
The only way to do that was to fill and taper then glue right to the hull.
Works very well.

I just used some thickened epoxy and set the stainer down on it. Where it came through the screw holes i flattened it down to help hold it down. When it setup I snapped the pump back on the strainer.It doesn't take much epoxy. Monty

Thanks guys for the bilge pump suggestions.

As far as the truck goes, I have 115,000 miles on it so far. Yes, I'm familiar with the engine cooler blockage issues and EGR cooler failures. I have decided to use Bullet Proof Diesel's products. They make a bolt up EGR cooler that eliminates the smaller fin design of the stock cooler. Much better design in my opinion I also ordered there new oil cooler. Their cooler eliminates the stock water fed unit with an exterior mounted air cooled unit. It also gets rid of the original oil filter assembly. The oil cooler is kind of pricey, but since I'm not paying any labor, I will be actually saving money than the dealers quote. Check them out on line at bulletproofdiesel.com

As far as the Turbo, they said it was bad, but they couldn't tell be what was wrong with it. They had a new one priced on the quote however. So I went ahead and ordered a new Garrett Powermax. Cheaper than stock, but a much better unit. They are backordered 6 weeks, so I won’t have it for a while.

I have a lot of experience with gas engines, but not diesels. But this is fairly straight forward. Just a bunch of parts to remove to get to the EGR cooler.

Thanks again for everyone's suggestions.

Jeff

Getting back to the boat, I'm still planning on bedding the main this weekend. Once it's bedded, I will then start on the blocks and built up areas on the starboard side. If I can manage to get everything dry fitted and then bedded, I just might be able to cut the port main out. I really want to get all of the old stringers cut out and grinded clean. I think it will probably be the worst part of this project and if I have them all out, I will feel like I have accomplished my first goal.

Jeff

Oh Snap! Sorry about the truck Jeff. It's likely my fault. My ex-boats seem to be bad luck for diesels. A few years ago, some dude's Ford Turbo blew up on the way to pick up a boat I was selling down in LA. Of course, the deal fell apart. The good news (for me at least) is, the SN is in your drive way already!

While we are on the subject of disappointing performances, I want to send my condolences for your Padres' effort towards the end of the season. Not sure if you're a baseball fan, but I just thought I'd try to cheer you up a little just in case. : )

You've been moving really fast on the boat. I bet once you get the other stringers out, it will come together really quickly.

JJ

Jeff,
I don't know the specific method of scribbing you're using but if you are really getting down to a tight fit, lay down some carbon (copy) paper. Set the stringer down and move it slightly. The high spots of course will be black. I've used this method for tigh fits needed on joining complex shapes that are bright (stained and varnished). I got the idea one day after visiting the dentist!! The only problem is finding the carbon paper these days!!!

jeff sorry to hear about your truck,i just have a question ,talked to a guy who has redone boats for 16 years and i asked him about dug. fir. because i am having trouble finding dug. fir and when i do it's outrageous in price. he told me he would not use fir but use a marine grade plywood with non oil in the plywood. Says it is much stronger than fir because you can make it whatever thickness you need. And also do you know the difference between the different types of marine grade plywood..with and without oil. I'm just trying to figure things out. Thanks for the help.