86 SN rebuild

Just saw this thread today, loving it! I remember doing stuff like this with my Dad when I was your son's age (not quite as involved as a re-string though!) and it was that kinda work that turned into my hobbies later in life...as with most here I assume.

One word of caution...In 10-15 years, your driveway will become your son's workshop!!!

I don't have my own garage at the moment and after rebuilding my trailer etc. this summer in pops' driveway, and seeing him shake his head at all the rust flakes and paint everywhere, I can't help but laugh and remind him that he started it!

Keep up the good work, I really admire all you guys for your time and effort you put into redoing these classics...

Pbrain,

That's how I'm doing it. I scribe both sides and use a power plane. Once I get it close, I usually finish it up with a belt sander. The main is just taking me a little longer than I expected.

Jeff

gun-driver wrote: Jeff, I you use a compass or divider its easier. Set your stringer level then take the compass and set it to the widest gap you have. Then run the compass the length of the stringer keeping it square with the stringer and wah-lah done deal.

The actual scribing is the easy part. It's the angular change of the cut fore to aft that's the challenge!! Scibe both sides and go after it with a power hand planer. Some hear have gotten cheap ones from Harbor and found them to work very well.

I think it depends on the region you're in as well. Doug Fir is readily available in California so it's a good option. Other parts of the country have to special order it.

When I first set it in, I use a compass. But it never seems to get me as tight as I want to be. So, I usually follow up with the pencil. Basically the same thing, but the pencil is always set at 1/8 inch.

Jeff

jeff sorry to hear about your truck,i just have a question ,talked to a guy who has redone boats for 16 years and i asked him about dug. fir. because i am having trouble finding dug. fir and when i do it's outrageous in price. he told me he would not use fir but use a marine grade plywood with non oil in the plywood. Says it is much stronger than fir because you can make it whatever thickness you need. And also do you know the difference between the different types of marine grade plywood..with and without oil. I'm just trying to figure things out. Thanks for the help.

Jeff,
I don't know the specific method of scribbing you're using but if you are really getting down to a tight fit, lay down some carbon (copy) paper. Set the stringer down and move it slightly. The high spots of course will be black. I've used this method for tigh fits needed on joining complex shapes that are bright (stained and varnished). I got the idea one day after visiting the dentist!! The only problem is finding the carbon paper these days!!!

Oh Snap! Sorry about the truck Jeff. It's likely my fault. My ex-boats seem to be bad luck for diesels. A few years ago, some dude's Ford Turbo blew up on the way to pick up a boat I was selling down in LA. Of course, the deal fell apart. The good news (for me at least) is, the SN is in your drive way already!

While we are on the subject of disappointing performances, I want to send my condolences for your Padres' effort towards the end of the season. Not sure if you're a baseball fan, but I just thought I'd try to cheer you up a little just in case. : )

You've been moving really fast on the boat. I bet once you get the other stringers out, it will come together really quickly.

JJ

Getting back to the boat, I'm still planning on bedding the main this weekend. Once it's bedded, I will then start on the blocks and built up areas on the starboard side. If I can manage to get everything dry fitted and then bedded, I just might be able to cut the port main out. I really want to get all of the old stringers cut out and grinded clean. I think it will probably be the worst part of this project and if I have them all out, I will feel like I have accomplished my first goal.

Jeff

Thanks guys for the bilge pump suggestions.

As far as the truck goes, I have 115,000 miles on it so far. Yes, I'm familiar with the engine cooler blockage issues and EGR cooler failures. I have decided to use Bullet Proof Diesel's products. They make a bolt up EGR cooler that eliminates the smaller fin design of the stock cooler. Much better design in my opinion I also ordered there new oil cooler. Their cooler eliminates the stock water fed unit with an exterior mounted air cooled unit. It also gets rid of the original oil filter assembly. The oil cooler is kind of pricey, but since I'm not paying any labor, I will be actually saving money than the dealers quote. Check them out on line at bulletproofdiesel.com

As far as the Turbo, they said it was bad, but they couldn't tell be what was wrong with it. They had a new one priced on the quote however. So I went ahead and ordered a new Garrett Powermax. Cheaper than stock, but a much better unit. They are backordered 6 weeks, so I won’t have it for a while.

I have a lot of experience with gas engines, but not diesels. But this is fairly straight forward. Just a bunch of parts to remove to get to the EGR cooler.

Thanks again for everyone's suggestions.

Jeff

I just used some thickened epoxy and set the stainer down on it. Where it came through the screw holes i flattened it down to help hold it down. When it setup I snapped the pump back on the strainer.It doesn't take much epoxy. Monty

Bremsen wrote: On the pump mount, I was thinking you could just use some 4200 to glue a small scrap of HDPE then screw the pump to that. Its probably the way I'm going to go on mine.

I thought about doing something along those lines but wanted the pump to be at the lowest point.
The only way to do that was to fill and taper then glue right to the hull.
Works very well.

hmmm, must be a 6L. sorry to hear about that Ranger. Such a common issue I can't believe Ford turns a blind eye to it.

you were making great progress on the boat, I'm sure you'll get back to it in no time. On the pump mount, I was thinking you could just use some 4200 to glue a small scrap of HDPE then screw the pump to that. Its probably the way I'm going to go on mine.

Jeff,
There is ply under the glass for the bilge mounts. And it will trap water!!




I ground mine out then leveled with epoxy and used a couple uf dabs from a hot glue gun to attach the pump strainer. Worked great and no screws!!

Jeff,
As far as the bilge pump pad goes, it should only be enough extra layers of glass to hold the pump down with the short screws. No wood necessary. You're movin' right along with the build! I've got the motor assembled, and everything glassed in except the floor pieces on the '77 SN. (I know, pictures!) I hope to paint the bilge and drop the motor back in next weekend, then I'll feel like I'm getting close. My goal is to get it in the water just in time to winterize it.