86 SN rebuild

When I first set it in, I use a compass. But it never seems to get me as tight as I want to be. So, I usually follow up with the pencil. Basically the same thing, but the pencil is always set at 1/8 inch.

Jeff

I think it depends on the region you're in as well. Doug Fir is readily available in California so it's a good option. Other parts of the country have to special order it.

gun-driver wrote: Jeff, I you use a compass or divider its easier. Set your stringer level then take the compass and set it to the widest gap you have. Then run the compass the length of the stringer keeping it square with the stringer and wah-lah done deal.

The actual scribing is the easy part. It's the angular change of the cut fore to aft that's the challenge!! Scibe both sides and go after it with a power hand planer. Some hear have gotten cheap ones from Harbor and found them to work very well.

Pbrain,

That's how I'm doing it. I scribe both sides and use a power plane. Once I get it close, I usually finish it up with a belt sander. The main is just taking me a little longer than I expected.

Jeff

Just saw this thread today, loving it! I remember doing stuff like this with my Dad when I was your son's age (not quite as involved as a re-string though!) and it was that kinda work that turned into my hobbies later in life...as with most here I assume.

One word of caution...In 10-15 years, your driveway will become your son's workshop!!!

I don't have my own garage at the moment and after rebuilding my trailer etc. this summer in pops' driveway, and seeing him shake his head at all the rust flakes and paint everywhere, I can't help but laugh and remind him that he started it!

Keep up the good work, I really admire all you guys for your time and effort you put into redoing these classics...

Hey, I have another question. My craddle has 2 - 3/8 in aluminum blocks between itself and the front motor mounts. Does anyone else have these blocks? I would think that I should raise the craddle 3/8 of an inch and loose the blocks. I'm sure I have the room to drop the rear mount and therefore keep the same angle.

What does everyone else do?

Jeff

It's a block that sets above the craddle, but under the mount. Just a flat piece of aluminum stock. It looks like someone might of used it to get the front of the engine a little higher.

Jeff

charger496 wrote: I know this is a threadjack, but for engine mounting hardware, should one use stainless steel lag bolts, or is there something stronger for this. I plan on sleeving the thru-bolts with thickened epoxy and using ARP bolts, or the like. This doesn't apply for an '86, it's for a 2nd generation hull with the motor mounts bolted directly to the stringers.

The stainless lags are fine. They are stronger than the material you are bolting into, so they are not a weak point.

Jeff, I suspect the aluminum shims were used to dial the alignment in. The critical thing is that you get the height of the mount itself correct. If you can be more precise with the stringer height to accomplish this without the shims, more power to you. Dont forget that any changes in the front area may impact the rear mounts as well. Also take a look at the mounts themselves- if they arent at the center of their adjustment range, dial your stringer height in accordingly.

We'll, it seems as though when I'm ready to get going on the stringer, something gets in the way. I had planned on finishing the main over the weekend, but it rained all day on Sunday. From what I understand, we will have rain for about a week and a half. To make matters worse, I have to go in for knee surgery this Friday, so I will be laid up for another week. (I guess it really depends, but I’m counting on a week)

So, hopefully, I will be able to get the main finished and bedded by the end of November. In the meantime, I will be staring out the window like a school kid wanting to go play in the mud.

Jeff

Since my Truck is running great and my knees are on the road to recovery, I'm itching to get going again. But I have a question with regards to setting the boat back on the trailer. When would the hull be strong enough to drop on the trailer? After you bed all 4 stringers or would you wait until you glass all 4? Or would you wait until the floor is actually in?

I would probably leave it setting on its stands until the floor is in, but with the winter season here, it would be nice to move it in and out of the garage. Just thought I would throw the question out there and see what others have done.

What say you?

Jeff

I think I would agree. If I have all 4 down and glassed, the hull should be strong enough for me to set on the trailer. I could then back it in the garage during the rainy season and complete the floor.

I still haven't bedded the starboard main, but I'm hopeful that I can get back to it this weekend. Since I'm still on crutches, I probably won't get much done. But I can try!

Jeff

Scott I am pretty sure that he has already bedded the ports and is using DF.

I would glass the stringers before moving it. You dont want any separation to occur and that hull has some flex to it. Kinda like taking off the bra

Glad you are mending and the truck is back. Kids are out of school tomorrow and it will be pushing 80 so we are hitting the lake in the morning for the first time in a few weeks. Gordie my 9 year old is raring to ride the kneeboard.

I have a question for Pete or whoever. Could a person use Cyphrees for stringers? Just a question.

OH is a long way off, but it still might be worth shipping a pallet. The D fir sweetwater had has been there a little while and is ripe for use. They even have D fir ply. I've tried glueing a few other species since I did the boat...the bottom line is epoxy likes D fir!

Just like Pete said it would.   

Oak is heavy, rigid and not very rot resistant. DF is crucial for many reasons. It has a very high load/span rating, is springy, has excellent rot resistance and it drinks CPES and epoxy giving you superior bonding. Before trying to reinvent the wheel I might spend a little more time trying to find DF in your area. It took me a couple of days of calling dozens of local and not so local lumber yards before I found one that ordered it for me. Even if you have to spend a whole day going to pick it up that will be time well spent. For a project of this magnitude you gotta do the legwork. There is not much instant gratification to a rebuild. Take the time do it right and you will not be dissapointed.