#2 trailer work

Storm 34 - I tend to agree with you ... your black trailer looks nice and it lets the eyes focus more on the boat.   I believe I am leaning towards Gloss black.

Yellow would be cool but it would scream "look at me - I'm a bright yellow trailer!!!"

Anybody know what type of Black paint to use that is UV tolerant?   I don't want it to fade after a couple of months in the sun.

Dave

I'm out of the loop on classic CC trailers but am working on restoring my 1984 sportsman trailer.

I won't junk up the #2 thread with my stuff but thought I might ask what yall think of my poles and paint as they might be aplicable to a #2. I'll try to get pics of the new poles up this weekend (They are in the shop).


I just had new guide pole fabricated by a local chassis shop. They are an exact match of my originals but these are out of stronger .120 wall DOM chassis tubing. The ugly part was the chassis tube cost $5 per ft.   But at $165 for the pair of new stronger poles I'm ok with it.    
It took 5 shops not being able to do it and then a 75 mile round trip to get the right stuff. Mandrel bent 1.5" .120 wall DOM   


I'm eyeing a paint by Sherwin Williams called Sher Kem. It is an equipment / industrial coating. I've used on a few car trailers and I also used it on my boat engine and trans with great results. My local SW store says that new paint environmental laws are changing the paint / coating business and the Sher Kem might not make the cut. I'm picking up a gallon of Raven Black tomorrow. The Raven black color is a close match to my original paint dark dark blue, basically black with a little blue sheen.

Marty, I just cut some for our Classic trailer. I used the clearest 2x4x12 PT boards I could find. I ripped them down to 3" and put a 3/4" 45 degree bevel on them. I think the original bunks were slightly narrower than 3", maybe about 2.75".

Great info guys. Just trying to remember it all now, as the printer runs out of ink!
I might try to give a few of you a phone call later on,or at least the ones i have #'s for.
Also Gary Blackburn, I think I need your e-mail. Either I never had it or can't find it.

Gary,
The jack, yes is there. It is on top of the plate it's welded in,
it's 22 5/8 ". The 'foot' is 17 " extended.   So it equals 41 " top to the wheel fully extended. It almost rolls down flat on the ground(the tounge end). The housing is really 24 ".It's welded into the plate that bolts to the trailer. I've seen no markings yet. The only thing is, one side is stamped 4 67   the other 2 with a circle around it. I did notice on the tounge #2 1800 stamped in it near the hitch.I'll take it off Sunday and see if I see a maker on it. The wheel is hard rubber and has Marvel stamped on it.

Total Price ????

Ok guys, I got the boat back under the trailer everything back together this weekend. I thought I would share some pics and a final review.

I did run into a few problems as these spindles are a bit different than the originals which requires different bearings and seals than the original 1". If anyone (marty) is going to get one of these axles, I can get you the proper part numbers.

I got the springs, axle and hubs from Woody in Florida. He was the only one who could find these springs without having them custom made. He is a great guy and will make sure you are well taken care of!!

Tim Benjamin suggested I go with 13" tires. Some were concerned they would fit but after putting everything together they have much more clearance than the 12's and old springs.

Hope you guys enjoy the pics. I'm extremely please with the results...

Trailer before....

Finished product (w/o guides)

Those springs must have a higher load carrying capacity than mine- they have the trailer sitting quite a bit higher!

Everything looks great- nice job.

Gary S wrote: Marty,can you get me the make and model of the jack if it's on there? And these dimensions please? Thanks

Gary, I thought of you this weekend when we pulled the boat down to the ramp. If you put one of these jack on your trailer will you be able to open the back hatch of the tow vehicle? I got mine hooked up, plugged in the lights and couldn't close the door because of the bow stop.

storm34 wrote: Gary S wrote: Marty,can you get me the make and model of the jack if it's on there? And these dimensions please? Thanks Gary, I thought of you this weekend when we pulled the boat down to the ramp. If you put one of these jack on your trailer will you be able to open the back hatch of the tow vehicle? I got mine hooked up, plugged in the lights and couldn't close the door because of the bow stop.

Chris, Marty's looks to be an original CC jack- it looks just like mine.



The lift gate on my 4Runner just barely clears it.

Gary, Id love to know if these are still available- there are no markings on mine to indicate who made it. If you find anything, let me know! I sort of suspect we may be out of luck though... I may have to resort to a custom adapter bracket that goes from the original mounting holes on the frame to a modern a-frame jack.

Chris,


What is the rating of the springs? Yes, removing one leaf is a method of bringing down the overall load rating but I don't know which one to remove!! I'd say the very bottom but check it out before you do it. I didn't remove any leafs in my when I re sprung one of my trailers. I used a mono leaf instead. Northern handled them for awhile but that was way back. The mono leaf is actually tapered in thickness. heavy in the middle at the axle and then thinner at the shackle ends.

I do have the same problem Chris,but it's due to the PO mounting a winch to the spare mount.I like the winch so I just have to deal with it.
Tim,I am finding that the new jacks like you said are alot different. I'll keep looking and if I find anything I'll let you know.