bushings in strut

Mike,
You may want to check the condition of the cutlass bearing before you go to the work involved in changing it. First do a rough engine to shaft alingment making sure the shaft isn't out causing a binding in the strut. A good way to check it is to see if the prop shaft turns pretty freely. Then see if there's any radial play between the shaft and cutlass bearing.

Get back to us if there is and we'll talk about changing it out.

Mike,
The 1/8" is way beyond the normal for the slop in the cutlass. Plan on pulling the shaft and installing a new one.

Some have had cutlass bearings slide right out but most are stuck in the strut as it should be a close tolerance fit. The best way I've found to remove the old is to get a hack saw blade through the hole and then attached to the hack saw frame. A sawsall works even better if you have one. Saw through the outer brass shell and then you'll be able to curl it in on itself.

Pressing the new one in is done with a length of threaded rod and some fender washers on each end. Thighting up nuts on the rod will push it right in.

There are slide hammers out there for the purpose of removal and installation but I've never seen one that really works. The brass wall of the cutlass is so thin that there's not much to grab onto.

lakedog55 wrote: Thanks, There seems to be a blockage in the front of the shaft. How do I get the shaft out? Have you tried those carbon bearings. Above you mentioned pulling the shaft and installing a new one did you mean shaft or bearing? Could I pull the strut and slide it off the shaft. Mike

Mike,
I'm not sure what you mean about the blockage in front of the shaft.

I meant replacement of the cutlass and not the shaft, but read further.

There are two ways to change out the cutlass.
Prop shaft removal or strut removal. It's really a toss up as to which is more work. Getting the coupling half off the forward end of the shaft can be a chore. If you have a straight bore coupling and not one of the ARE tapered ones, it's a close tolerance heat shrunk fit and you'll need to use the long bolt and spacer trick. If you remove the strut, then you'll need to go through the strut alignment problem. I've done it both ways and prefer removing the shaft. With the shaft removed, you can also set it up in V blocks and check for straightness with a dial indicator.

Maybe I'm old school but I'd stick with the old rubber type cutlass. They are time tested whereas the new plastics are not. I've seen too many plastic bearing failures in my work and I feel more time is needed to prove them out in a marine strut application.

lakedog55 wrote: I do have a straight bore shaft. Will it slide past the tranny? That was the blockage I was referring to. Thanks Mike

Mike,
The shaft has got to come out the aft end of the boat unless you pull the engine and trans. That is another option on getting the shaft out that I didn't mention.

Yes, that is a big blockage!

Mike - Heat the coupler up in the oven, or barbie, to about 400F. Obviously use some oven mitts to handle it. Be in-position & have someone bring to you so you can push it on the shaft quickly. Have the key ready to assemble. Once it shrinks, if you don't have it lined up, you have to start over again & re-pull it.