Shaft & Strut Questions

I got the shaft free from the coupler using the socket trick from previous posts and what a real PITA that process is - for what it is worth if anyone pursues this process on a 1" shaft the 3/4" deep well socket it just a little too large in diameter - I ended up going to ACE Hardware and finding a pin that would be used on 3 point hookup for a tractor that would fit in the gap b/w the couplers, but was smaller in diameter than the shaft b/c the socket was binding in the coupler. Here is a picture of my strut any chance this is salvagable and can be straightened I am going to the machine shop in the morning to get their opinion, but asking the experts here for opinions before I spend the money on someone's time and it doesn't work. Second question is there supposed to be a cutlass bearing in the shaft log thru the hull - when I got the shaft out there was not one in there. Also I removed the rudder thru hull fitting b/c I think there was a leak there for the last 2 years that was not too bad and not worth fixing, but why I am at it with the shaft removed I pulled it off and there is some kind of sticky goo in the screw holes and around the base - is this CC original install (I think it has not been removed b/c there was still bilge coating on the screw threads on the top side) Any input on this process would be greatly appreciated I have the post on strut alignment printed out as well as lapping prop to shaft post and plan on doing both before total reassembly

THANKS

Strut can be fixed with a hydraulic press or jack. The bore just needs to be centered & straight with the mounting holes. The S curve doesn't matter. No bushing goes in log.

Thanks for the input - anyone have any feedback on the gooey stuff I referenced

When I put the rudder assembly and strut back on how much 5200 needs to go in there?   

During disassembly it all just fell off no adhesive really holding anything together, just the gooey stuff on the streads at rudder and some old hard/brittle residue on strut that I will need to clean off

BuffaloBFN wrote: 5200 is permanent; 4200 is removable.

Bah, 5200 isnt that permanant. We resealed the rudder port on the BFN last year, had to take it all apart again after the summer... a BFH got it off- didnt even need to use Pete's hot wire cutting trick!

Pete, the oldtimer at the machine shop said the same thing about it looking like the strut had been worked on the boat - actually there is some dents on the side where it appears a hammer was used to knock it around - machine shop said they would try at no cost believe it or not, but he advised me that with the fatigue that has already set in even if the straightening was successful he would be skeptical about it being safe on the water - his honest opinion was don't take the chance. They are however going to look at the two shafts I have for straighteness and turn the coupler face a little to clean it up where someone tried to pry them apart and they are going to help me lap the new prop to the better of the two shafts this afternoon. All in all this isn't turning out to be too difficult of a job - just a little patience and time

THANKS for the pointers along the way

Glad that you got it all worked out. It's cool that the machine shop was so gracious. I have found that people like to help out when they find out you are working on an old Correct Craft.

I also had that gooey sealer all over my strut and rudder port. I found acetone and a brush removed it with ease. Almost feels like plumbers putty to me because it never cures.

Mark,
I have always used and have always recommended wired hose but some have had issues with trying to get it onto the log and gland.

A washer is not needed under the prop shaft nut. It's sometimes used to get the castle nut slots to line up better with the hole in the shaft. Besides a safety factor and seating the prop on it's taper, the prop nut's not even needed.

Okie Boarder wrote: Discount Inboard Marine sells the shaft log hose in a 6" length that you just cut down to what you need.

Careful! The 2 CC's that I have replaced the shaft log hose on use 1-1/2", not the 1-3/4" that SkiDIM sells. They mention this on the main page listing the hoses.

SkiDIM hoses by the foot

Getting that hose on and off is a major PITA, by the way. While I understand Pete's recommendation on the wire reinforced stuff, the originals Ive taken apart weren't reinforced at all and seem to have held up fine for the 30+ years they were on the boat.

I have already put the caliper on the log and it measures 1.5" - there is a radiator/hyd. pump not too far from where I live and they have same hose that SKIDM and others sell so when I get a chance I am going to go by there and get me a foot of each and try the wire reinforced and if it won't work I will go with the un-reinforced and call it done

Mark - As long as the areas under the bolts are contacting (Strut surface has concave shape), I wouldn't worry about the out of flat condition. If it is bowed such that there is a gap under the bolt ares (convex), that needs to be corrected, otherwise it will preload the fiberglass. But before you start milling it down, check to see if you need to add shims to get the shaft centered in the log.