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What do i need?

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Eric H View Drop Down
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    Posted: January-26-2011 at 11:50pm
Im going to start a stringer floor job here as soon as i can get my car to the lake garage, and my boat to the house garage.

I have owned this boat for 3 years. Last summer i was doing some work on the ole CC and noticed one of my motor mount lag bolts looked loose i went to snug it up and it just spun freely. I took it out with a claw hammer and it looked more like a nail then a lag bolt. needless to say i have a bit of a problem. Last thing i want to happen is the motor to come loose underway.

So i have been lurking this site and have read many stringer threads. I want to come up with a list of supplies i will need to do the job so i cant start ordering the things i need.

1. I see alot of people are using Douglas Fur for the main stringers. Im having a hard time locating this wood. Is there anything eles i can use in its place? Also what is the best material to use for the secondary stringers?

2. Looks like most people are using a epoxy resin like the west system. Is this what i should go with? How much do you think is needed to do a whole boat?

3. i have seen many talks about bonding the stringers to the hull of the boat can i use 5200 for this?

4. How many layers of glass are you guys putting down on the stringers? And whats the best glass to use for this type job.


5. Where is the best place to get some of this stuff. I mean i can go to the West marine down the street how ever i think its going to be more expensive that way.

6. What does the average stringer job cost the do it your selfer?

7. Here is a picture of my boat








Thanks In advance
Eric
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Keeganino View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Keeganino Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-27-2011 at 12:18am
Welcome Eric you are in the right place and have drummed up a question list very similar to the ones I had about a year ago.

Here are my suggestions
1. Don't try to reinvent the wheel. Keep looking and asking around for the DFir. You will find it. I called dozens of places before finding mine but in the end only had to go a few miles to get it. Make sure to CPES all wood going back in.

2.West is a brand name most here use US Composites. They have all your glass and resin. You will need a 10 gallon kit.

3.Stringers are bonded to the hull using thickened epoxy. There are a few different fillers to choose from but the economical way is with cabosil/aerosil. 5200 is more like caulk and is used for all through hull fittings and anywhere a screw is set.

4.The recommended layup schedule is to use the 8.9 oz cloth tape. After the stringers are bedded and filleted use 2 layers each of 2"/4"/8" and then 1 layer of 12" biaxial up each side and 1 over the top to cap it off.

5. I recommend USC. Their prices are lower and they are the one stop shop and have all your glass and resin.

6. People kept telling me $2k but I would budget at least $4k and you will probably pass that number if you replace many "while you are in there" items. I had to buy a lot of tools and the little things add up fast. I started to add it up once and stopped because I did not want to disclose everything to the wifey!

7. Cool boat! Make sure you list your boat in the diaries section. What year/model is it? What engine?



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote connorssons Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-27-2011 at 1:32am
looks to be a 71 to 73 stang!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-27-2011 at 8:52am
Eric,
The Doug Fir is not that hard to find but it's not something you'll find at your local home improvement store (unles you live in the northwest!!). What part of the country are you in? I ask because one of our members may have already found a spot close to you.

A alternate would be to use LVL (Microlam) if you want to stick with wood. We do have one member who's using it but I haven't seen him post in awhile.

For the secondaries, some decent pine is fine.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-27-2011 at 12:21pm
I cant see the pictures above, but Im assuming this is the same boat you posted about buying in Jan '08:



Jeff, its a '71 Martinique. It has a lot of the same fancy trim as the Mustang, but rides on a Ski Nautique hull.

Eric, all of your questions are pretty common for those just starting to look at a stringer rebuild. My recommendation would be to read these threads- they contain a ton of info and should anwser your questions.


Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

Originally posted by Keeganino Keeganino wrote:


Seriously though I have so much to learn before I even think about making my first cuts. Threads are great and key info is hidden all through them but... A book would be great. Any recommendations?

I think you'll find more than enough info here on the forums to answer any question that you have. Search, search, search- and read, read, read!

Here are some big hitters on stringer/floor jobs. My apologies to anyone I forgot. In no particular order:

Buffalo's '88 Barefoot Nautique

Skibum's '87 Ski Nautique rebuild (and his website)

aka's '83 SN

Wakeslayer's '68 Stang

Joe in NY's all composite 60mph Nautique rebuild

The Grinch's '79 BFN

UK79's '78SN


Hasbeenskier has also done a beautiful job restoring 2 '81's with composites... a SN and a BFN. He has numerous threads on each, so do some clicking and read those too.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote storm34 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-27-2011 at 1:50pm
what about coosa?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Keeganino Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-27-2011 at 1:54pm
Originally posted by storm34 storm34 wrote:

what about coosa?



Tim will have to give is opinion since he just used it but to me it sounds like a lot more work to use coosa and definitely more expensive. Lots of laminating.
"working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote vondy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-27-2011 at 5:22pm
Originally posted by Keeganino Keeganino wrote:


6. People kept telling me $2k but I would budget at least $4k and you will probably pass that number if you replace many "while you are in there" items. I had to buy a lot of tools and the little things add up fast. I started to add it up once and stopped because I did not want to disclose everything to the wifey!


Last time I asked, the number for a 16 footer was around $1,200 minimum with no foam. Keeganio does your $4K include your engine work?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WakeSlayer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-27-2011 at 5:26pm
$2000, 200 hours, 20 cases of beer.

This is just for the stringers. As mentioned above, there are a lot of things you will run across that will add to the cost.
My advice is to read everything you can more than once. Listen when people give a consensus on advice. Do not take shortcuts. They just aren't worth the percieved time or money savings.
Lastly, put your head down and give it horns. It is a labor of love, and a sh!t ton of work, but it is well worth all the work once you are back on the water knowing you made your boat better than new again.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Eric H Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-27-2011 at 6:41pm
Yea i have been reading those threads over the past few months.

This is what im looking at

http://www.uscomposites.com/epoxy.html

Should i get the Slow med or fast setting?

with the fiberglass tape

this is what i would need to get?

8.7oz Fiberglass Cloth Tapes (E-Glass)

Just 2-4-8 and 12

Is a 50 yard roll of each enough to do the whole boat? or do i need more like 2 rolls of 2,4,8 and 1 roll of 12?

As far as the attaching the stringers to the hull i will need this?

Aerosil-Cabosil
(Fumed Silica) ( Aer-o-sil 200 )
Thickening agent for epoxies, polyesters, and urethanes. Thicken resins to your own taste by adding varying amounts. Ideal for making adhesives and putties for gluing wood, fiberglass, stone, concrete, etc. However, adding this product will make the cured resin much more difficult to sand.

How much is needed? just a quart or more?

By the looks from the other threads i will need alot of cutting wheels and or a dimond wheel for my grinder?

i know this is soon to talk about but you guys are using the interlux Bilge Coat when its all done?

I think i might of found something on the douglas fur waiting on a call back.

Im in Maryland by the way.

TRBenj yes that is my boat i got back in 07.

Ill will try and throw up some other Pictures? Another thing i have been thinking about doing, is switch my front seat setup to more like a Nautique. The girl friend is more intrested in watching the skiers, then watching where i am driving!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Eric H Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-27-2011 at 6:47pm



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-27-2011 at 7:04pm
If considering coosa, feel free to check out our BFN thread as well. The coosa itself is easy to work with, but there are a few more steps involved. Everything is cut from 2x8 sheets, so theres a lot more cutting. The main stringers need to be laminated together. We also pre-glassed just about everything on both sides before installing it. Its also not cheap (~$250/sheet, we used 6 sheets). It will never rot though, is very strong and about 1/3 lighter than wood.

'79 BFN

I believe my final US Composites materials list is on page 5. If youre not rebuilding with as many ribs and bulkheads or laminating things together, you wont need quite as much tape- 2 rolls of 2", 4" and 8" will be plenty. No need for 12" tape if youre using biax. We had a lot of filler left over (which I will use for future projects), so you can definitely get by with less than I have listed. I used all milled fiber for the structural stuff, and microballoons for fairing. I didnt even open the A/C. The wider glass listed was used for the floor. We used all of the resin and then some- again, 10 gallons should be enough if youre not doing all the extra ribs and bulkheads.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote storm34 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-27-2011 at 7:15pm
Thats a good looking boat, love that model. Lets see some pictures of the motor/bilge.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Keeganino Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-27-2011 at 8:38pm
Originally posted by vondy vondy wrote:



Last time I asked, the number for a 16 footer was around $1,200 minimum with no foam. Keeganio does your $4K include your engine work?



That must have been a long time ago and using polyester resin. My USC bill alone was almost $1400. Then another $250 for D Fir, another $100 for plywood. Cases of chip brushes, mixing cups, plastic drop cloths, shop vac bags, filters, respirator cartridges, tyvek suits, contractor bags, $190 for CPES, stainless fasteners, grinder disc pads, cutting wheels, acetone, shop towels, etc...

That is easily over $2k. I spent $1K on the engine, $850 on new upholstery, and replaced a few while your in theres. I had to buy a slew of new tools too.

I guess my point is that there is a lot of hidden cost and you never know what your going to run into. Better to know that up front than run out of resources half way into the project.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Eric H Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-27-2011 at 10:11pm
TRBenj i see in your thread you got 5 gallons of Med and 5 gallons of Fast.

I havent done too much fiberglass work in my time, but i am a fast learner. So what do you pro's suggest for a 1st timer?

My garage stays about 45-55 degrees when im not working i get it up to about 70 when im in there i dont know if this will effect what resin to use?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Keeganino Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-27-2011 at 10:38pm
Originally posted by Eric H Eric H wrote:

TRBenj i see in your thread you got 5 gallons of Med and 5 gallons of Fast.

I havent done too much fiberglass work in my time, but i am a fast learner. So what do you pro's suggest for a 1st timer?

My garage stays about 45-55 degrees when im not working i get it up to about 70 when im in there i dont know if this will effect what resin to use?



Temperature s everything when you are deciding on which resin to use. from usc
"All working times(pot life) are based upon an optimum working temperature of about 80 degrees F. Temperatures variations will greatly affect curing times, and when below 65F can sometimes double curing times. Other factors that affect epoxy curing can be moisture and humidity, as well as the thickness of lamination."      

I would look ahead. It is cold right now but how long realistically before you start glassing? It takes a while to demo the old floor and foam, round up supplies, cut and dry fit stringers. I bought the cold weather formula CPES cause I ordered it in February but in June when I was using the majority of it I was having to work around high temps.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Eric H Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-27-2011 at 10:52pm
well i plan on doing the demo here in the next few weeks. I plan to be fitting stringers in about 6-8 weeks. maybe i will wait to order that part of it untill im ready. does usc take awhile to ship?

speaking of shipping what did you guys pay to have this stuff delivered?

Should i get the the Thick or Thin resin?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sanity Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-27-2011 at 11:53pm
Hi Eric,
I couldn't find Douglas Fir in PA, but I did find it in MD and we had a crew working there. They picked it up for me. The company is called World of Hardwoods and it's near Elkridge. worldofhardwoods.com Hope that helps you.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Eric H Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-27-2011 at 11:58pm
Originally posted by sanity sanity wrote:

Hi Eric,
I couldn't find Douglas Fir in PA, but I did find it in MD and we had a crew working there. They picked it up for me. The company is called World of Hardwoods and it's near Elkridge. worldofhardwoods.com Hope that helps you.
Sanity


Great thank you. they have it listed on their site. i will call tomorrow

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sanity Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-28-2011 at 12:08am
Glad to help. Shane was who I spoke to - nice guy.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Keeganino Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-28-2011 at 12:12am
My USC order was here in a week and the shipping was probably $200. Get the 635 thin resin.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MI-nick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-28-2011 at 11:58am
i love/hate these threads...love to read all the great information and see the progress...hate how it makes me think about the inevitability of doing this job on my boat...
As far as I can tell, I'm not quite sure...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-28-2011 at 12:09pm
Originally posted by Eric H Eric H wrote:

TRBenj i see in your thread you got 5 gallons of Med and 5 gallons of Fast.

I havent done too much fiberglass work in my time, but i am a fast learner. So what do you pro's suggest for a 1st timer?

My garage stays about 45-55 degrees when im not working i get it up to about 70 when im in there i dont know if this will effect what resin to use?


Keegan's advice is pretty good. Stick with the 635 thin resin. We did a decent amount of glassing through the winter, so we used the fast cure stuff when the temps were low. Once spring hit, the medium cure works best.
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Timing is another thing to consider. I don't think any of this goes as fast or smoothly as you think it will. At least the first time around...
If you are even remotely uncertain about your ability to dedicate all the time necessary in the next few weeks, I would wait and get after it in earnest in October, right when the season end. That gives you six solid months to work on it. I would hate to see you get started, run into time issues, or budget issues, and not get the boat on the water til August. That would suck.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Eric H Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-28-2011 at 12:38pm
Originally posted by WakeSlayer WakeSlayer wrote:

Timing is another thing to consider. I don't think any of this goes as fast or smoothly as you think it will. At least the first time around...
If you are even remotely uncertain about your ability to dedicate all the time necessary in the next few weeks, I would wait and get after it in earnest in October, right when the season end. That gives you six solid months to work on it. I would hate to see you get started, run into time issues, or budget issues, and not get the boat on the water til August. That would suck.


I think im just going to go for it. My room mate got a 2008 210 super air. Honestly we have been using that more then my little boat. I cant keep giving myself excuses to put it off any longer.

I have some time a 2 buddies that are ready to dive it head 1st. all and all im pretty excited to do this and learn!!

Thanks for all the help guys. Im going to hold off of ordering the resin until i get the boat stripped. This way i can better judge the weather.

If i do this with out foam, I should put in more support? I think i may shy away from the foam at this point.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Keeganino Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-28-2011 at 5:03pm
Originally posted by WakeSlayer WakeSlayer wrote:

Timing is another thing to consider. I don't think any of this goes as fast or smoothly as you think it will. At least the first time around...

I would hate to see you get started, run into time issues, or budget issues, and not get the boat on the water til August. That would suck.


Sure rub it in Mike!   

I did not get back on the water till August. Everything just took me a lot longer than I figured. I was working outside too so if it rained I could not work. Go get em!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WakeSlayer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-28-2011 at 5:16pm
Keegan, that was not directed at anyone in particular.   I know how it goes, is all. My wife was an Epoxy Widow for two winters in a row. If she weren't such a great woman, her Mustang would probably still not be done. I am taking this winter off the 67. Haven't touched it since last March.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Keeganino Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-28-2011 at 5:42pm
No offense taken its just a fact. I know I could do a second boat in a fraction of the time it took to do the first one, but waiting till I get a shop before I take on another one.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-28-2011 at 5:52pm
Eric,
I'd just like to add to the already good advice on the epoxy and the cure rates. Make small batches until you get the feel of how much is needed for a given job. If you make a big batch, you may find yourself reaching the end of it's pot life! Also, a large mixing container will spread out the resin more so the heat generated isn't concentrated and it won't "kick" (cure) as fast. I've had a couple get away from me through the years and you end up with a smoking plus hot container of resin!!


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