Can't get prop off |
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The Dude
Platinum Member Joined: October-19-2004 Location: Houston Status: Offline Points: 1334 |
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Posted: February-10-2011 at 10:19pm |
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Short story: can't get prop off my boat.
Long story: new prop and OJ prop puller came UPS today. Went to garage, took of castle nut, applied puller, started turning. 30 minutes later I'm still struggling with it. 45 minutes later, puller starts coming off shaft. I loosen and the puller has sheared off the pointy end that lines up in the hole on the end of the drive shaft. Prop does not seem to have moved. I haven't tried heat, or boiling water or of course--a hammer. Any suggestions? Puller will go back in box tomorrow to be returned. |
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MartyMabe
Grand Poobah Joined: February-21-2006 Location: High Point,NC Status: Offline Points: 3980 |
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Next time you try pulling the prop, Loosen the castle nut enough to see space between it and the prop, but LEAVE the nut on. If your prop would've broke loose, you could've lost a finger, or cut one bad. It will scare the d*ckens out of you when one 'POPS' loose!
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Keeganino
Grand Poobah Joined: October-27-2009 Location: North Carolina Status: Offline Points: 2063 |
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That is a good tip Marty. When I pulled mine off last year I was not expecting it to fly off like it did. For some reason I thought it would "move" some before coming off. They dont really move they just pop off when you build enough tension. I have read on this site that boiling water can really help and to be real careful using a torch not to damage your gelcoat. Good luck!
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"working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger
1973 Skier |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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David,
This is a classic case where a "C" clamp style prop puller doesn't work and the reason I actually made my own puller. When the prop is really stuck to the taper, the "C" clamp will stretch and then not pull with equal force around the prop hub. The style I made are available but are up there in cost and the reason I played around and made mine. Your best bet at this point is to make the style I have, buy one or find a 3 arm gear puller. Try heating the prop and cooling it a couple times before using the puller. When the time comes to put the prop back on, take a look at this tread if you haven't seen it already. |
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eric lavine
Grand Poobah Joined: August-13-2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 13413 |
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me too..and the latest and greatest will pull the coupling also
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"the things you own will start to own you"
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SNobsessed
Grand Poobah Joined: October-21-2007 Location: IA Status: Offline Points: 7102 |
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Don't know if it will work on a prop, but an old mechanics trick for getting ball joints loose was to hit it from 2 sides simultaneously with hammers. The shock would loosen the locking-taper fit. Maybe try that when the puller tension is on. Reiterate saftey - have the castle nut still on!
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“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”
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TRBenj
Grand Poobah Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21186 |
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As much as Id like one of those 3-bolt pullers, my C-clamp puller has removed ALOT of props. The ones that are really stuck will require a hammer. Put some tension on the prop with the puller, then using a small block of wood, hit the hub of the prop. Re-tighten puller and hit with hammer as many times as it takes... it will eventually pop.
Im usually swapping props on a lift in the water, so I dont have the advantage of heat... but I bet it would be advantageous to do so. |
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Hollywood
Moderator Group Joined: February-04-2004 Location: Twin Lakes, WI Status: Offline Points: 13514 |
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I've never not gotten a prop off with the C-style either. Snug it up and let it sit. I like to come back a couple minutes later and tigten it up. A tap with the hammer just may knock it loose. If not, move the puller between another blade and repeat. Not being in the boat repair business you have time to leave it on there and let it do its thing. Work smarter not harder.
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storm34
Grand Poobah Joined: November-03-2008 Location: Dexter Iowa Status: Offline Points: 4492 |
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The Dude
Platinum Member Joined: October-19-2004 Location: Houston Status: Offline Points: 1334 |
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Got it. Got a long nut (instead of castle nut) that kept the puller lined up. A pop with the hammer like TRB and Hollywood said. Gonna pull shaft and replace strut bearings. Do alignment (according to Eric's epic post) when it comes back together.
put the castle nut on for safety like you said, but prop came off really slowly. Pretty sure it's never been off before. Pete, I looked at that "lap" thread yesterday. It's outstanding. Thanks. It's good being back on here and chatting with you guys again. I haven't done much to the boat the past two years and got away from the practice of being on here. my list for the next couple weeks: -steering cable and helm -strut bearings -alignment -re pack rudder and shaft -impeller -tstat -belt set -new stereo -new upholstery on 3 seats (christines ordered today) -fix drip at strainer that rusted one motor mount I thought the prop would be the easiest. I hope it's not. It's finally over 50 again after 3 cold days! |
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BuffaloBFN
Grand Poobah Joined: June-24-2007 Location: Gainesville,GA Status: Offline Points: 6094 |
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If things ever get as easy as they 'ought to be, a bunch of good folks will be out of business!
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Hollywood
Moderator Group Joined: February-04-2004 Location: Twin Lakes, WI Status: Offline Points: 13514 |
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When I first took the prop off our 88 after about 7 years of ownership it was remarkably easy. I was rather worried it was going to be a bear so I met "gotwake" at his kid's football game to borrow his puller, borrowed a 12" crescent wrench, blocks of wood and a big needle nose pliers. All we needed was the pliers to get the cotter pin out. The nut and prop came off by hand! The temperature was probably about 35 F. The boat did run smooth before this. |
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M3Fan
Grand Poobah Joined: October-22-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 3185 |
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+1. It's like popping out a ball joint. Tighten the ball joint press, grab a beer. BLAM! Pops off like magic by itself. |
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The Dude
Platinum Member Joined: October-19-2004 Location: Houston Status: Offline Points: 1334 |
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starting to think my strut may be out of alignment. How would I know for sure?
I've got all the stuff on the shaft loose except the tranny coupler. I read this from Pete in another post:
The shaft is "happy" way over to one side of the shaft log. I'm wondering if it could have just "learned" that position in the rubber log or if it's that out of line? Dude out. |
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TRBenj
Grand Poobah Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21186 |
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Dude, it sounds like you missed one important detail. The "shaft log" is the brass piece that is glassed to the hull. It sounds like you are comparing to the "shaft log hose" which may be introducing some error to your judging of centered-ness. Ideally, the hose is removed so that you can accurately see how close to the center of the log the shaft wants to be. If your shaft is indeed skewed over to the side of the log, then your strut is either mounted slightly crooked, or bent. |
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The Dude
Platinum Member Joined: October-19-2004 Location: Houston Status: Offline Points: 1334 |
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ooops. Well the shaft is all the way to the port side of the brass shaft log. In fact there is some scoring on the shaft from it. So it's definitely nowhere near the middle. When it's in a "happy" position it is all the way against the edge of the shaft log (picture doesn't quite show that because I didn't get completely on top of it).
So next step is removing strut? Then seeing if I can have it straightened (assuming it's bent--which even to naked eye it looks that way). |
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The Dude
Platinum Member Joined: October-19-2004 Location: Houston Status: Offline Points: 1334 |
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bent shaft? I'm sure this is not the correct way to determine whether it's bent, but there's enough difference that it seems pretty obvious. Table is level.
Can the strut be straightened or do I just have to buy a new one? also, do I need to make images smaller so you don't have to scroll sideways? |
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eric lavine
Grand Poobah Joined: August-13-2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 13413 |
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do you have one solid bushing in there or 2 seperate bushings? and yes you can try to straighten the strut
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"the things you own will start to own you"
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TRBenj
Grand Poobah Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21186 |
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Dude, its probably bent based on your measurements, but Ive found that the base castings to be very rough sometimes, which makes the method you used to measure the straightness misleading. Ill try and dig up the pictures I posted of the method I used... but basically if you can measure off the bolt holes instead of the edge of the base, youre probably a little more accurate. 1/2" off probably means its bent though.
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SNobsessed
Grand Poobah Joined: October-21-2007 Location: IA Status: Offline Points: 7102 |
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“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”
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The Dude
Platinum Member Joined: October-19-2004 Location: Houston Status: Offline Points: 1334 |
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Measuring from the holes it's obviously bent. I can't figure it out...have not hit anything and there doesn't seem to be stress to the strut or to the hull.
I'm hoping my neighbor can take it to the machine shop where he works and straighten it tomorrow. If not, I may be rigging something like Chris's bottle jacks. Eric, one solid bushing. I guess I'll still replace with two. |
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The Dude
Platinum Member Joined: October-19-2004 Location: Houston Status: Offline Points: 1334 |
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How come when I crank the steering wheel to the port side my rudder looks like this?
what could I have installed wrong? |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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David,
What was removed from the steering system? If the tiller arm was off, did you put it back on with the rudder and helm roughly in the center neutral positions? Was the cable removed from the clamp at the aft end? |
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The Dude
Platinum Member Joined: October-19-2004 Location: Houston Status: Offline Points: 1334 |
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New cable, new helm. Dropped rudder. Put back together, but apparently not well. I thought I put things back roughly in center...
now what do you suggest to fix this? |
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TRBenj
Grand Poobah Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21186 |
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Dude, whats the issue here? Is the steering reversed, or is it simply not centered?
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The Dude
Platinum Member Joined: October-19-2004 Location: Houston Status: Offline Points: 1334 |
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reversed.
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TRBenj
Grand Poobah Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21186 |
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I dont think you can physically hook it up backwards at the rudder end, due to the exhaust hose. I would say the problem lies in the installation of the rack... something is reversed- either the cable or the rack itself.
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Keeganino
Grand Poobah Joined: October-27-2009 Location: North Carolina Status: Offline Points: 2063 |
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It is pretty easy to put the cable through the rack the wrong way on mine. I would start there at the wheel and work back if that does not work.
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"working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger
1973 Skier |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Thanks for the further explaination. Yes, I agree with Tim. It's a assembly problem at the helm. The rack is on the wrong side of the pinion.
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The Dude
Platinum Member Joined: October-19-2004 Location: Houston Status: Offline Points: 1334 |
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That's what I was afraid of. The only thing I can think of is that I put the helm in upside down so the rack is on the wrong side of it. But I feel confident the helm was put in right....with the gears that mesh to the rack facing up and the rack laying across the helm "on top."
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Mullet Free since 93
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