Can't get prop off

reversing now.

That's what I was afraid of. The only thing I can think of is that I put the helm in upside down so the rack is on the wrong side of it. But I feel confident the helm was put in right....with the gears that mesh to the rack facing up and the rack laying across the helm "on top."

It is pretty easy to put the cable through the rack the wrong way on mine. I would start there at the wheel and work back if that does not work.

reversed.

New cable, new helm. Dropped rudder. Put back together, but apparently not well. I thought I put things back roughly in center...

now what do you suggest to fix this?

How come when I crank the steering wheel to the port side my rudder looks like this?

what could I have installed wrong?

Strut Straightening

do you have one solid bushing in there or 2 seperate bushings? and yes you can try to straighten the strut

ooops. Well the shaft is all the way to the port side of the brass shaft log. In fact there is some scoring on the shaft from it. So it's definitely nowhere near the middle. When it's in a "happy" position it is all the way against the edge of the shaft log (picture doesn't quite show that because I didn't get completely on top of it).
So next step is removing strut? Then seeing if I can have it straightened (assuming it's bent--which even to naked eye it looks that way).

starting to think my strut may be out of alignment. How would I know for sure?

I've got all the stuff on the shaft loose except the tranny coupler. I read this from Pete in another post:

8122pbrainard wrote: Before you move the engine ether up or down, find out where the shaft is "happy" (turns freely) in the strut and then check to make sure it's centered in the shaft log. If it's not, then you'll need to do a strut alignment. You'll need to get it out of the water.

The shaft is "happy" way over to one side of the shaft log. I'm wondering if it could have just "learned" that position in the rubber log or if it's that out of line?

Dude out.

The Dude wrote: I thought the prop would be the easiest. I hope it's not.

When I first took the prop off our 88 after about 7 years of ownership it was remarkably easy. I was rather worried it was going to be a bear so I met "gotwake" at his kid's football game to borrow his puller, borrowed a 12" crescent wrench, blocks of wood and a big needle nose pliers. All we needed was the pliers to get the cotter pin out. The nut and prop came off by hand! The temperature was probably about 35 F. The boat did run smooth before this.

Got it. Got a long nut (instead of castle nut) that kept the puller lined up. A pop with the hammer like TRB and Hollywood said. Gonna pull shaft and replace strut bearings. Do alignment (according to Eric's epic post) when it comes back together.

put the castle nut on for safety like you said, but prop came off really slowly. Pretty sure it's never been off before.

Pete, I looked at that "lap" thread yesterday. It's outstanding. Thanks.

It's good being back on here and chatting with you guys again. I haven't done much to the boat the past two years and got away from the practice of being on here.

my list for the next couple weeks:
-steering cable and helm
-strut bearings
-alignment
-re pack rudder and shaft
-impeller
-tstat
-belt set
-new stereo
-new upholstery on 3 seats (christines ordered today)
-fix drip at strainer that rusted one motor mount

I thought the prop would be the easiest. I hope it's not.

It's finally over 50 again after 3 cold days!

I've never not gotten a prop off with the C-style either. Snug it up and let it sit. I like to come back a couple minutes later and tigten it up. A tap with the hammer just may knock it loose. If not, move the puller between another blade and repeat. Not being in the boat repair business you have time to leave it on there and let it do its thing. Work smarter not harder.

Don't know if it will work on a prop, but an old mechanics trick for getting ball joints loose was to hit it from 2 sides simultaneously with hammers. The shock would loosen the locking-taper fit. Maybe try that when the puller tension is on. Reiterate saftey - have the castle nut still on!

David,
This is a classic case where a "C" clamp style prop puller doesn't work and the reason I actually made my own puller.



When the prop is really stuck to the taper, the "C" clamp will stretch and then not pull with equal force around the prop hub. The style I made are available but are up there in cost and the reason I played around and made mine. Your best bet at this point is to make the style I have, buy one or find a 3 arm gear puller. Try heating the prop and cooling it a couple times before using the puller.

When the time comes to put the prop back on, take a look at this tread
if you haven't seen it already.