STRINGERS

GENTLMEN

I AM REPLACING THE STRINGERS IN MY 1975 SKI NAUTIQUE. WHILE DOING SO I WILL BE REPLACING THE FLOOR BOARDS. UPON REMOVING FLOORBOARDS AND OLD FOAM, IS IT RECOMMENDED THAT NEW FOAM BE INSTALLED?

ALSO, I AM PLANNING ON CUTTING THE OLD BOARDING TO AROUND AN INCH FROM THE INNER SIDE OF THE HULL. DO I NEED TO BUTT THE NEW BOARDS DIRECTLY TO THE LEFT OVER BOARD OR REMOVE THE WOOD AND SLIDE THE NEW BOARDING INTO THE GROOVE AND THEN FIBERGLASS THE TO THE HULL?

Mike,
Tim (above) types faster that I do! I concure with his comments that you want all the old wood out of the hull. Has this boat had a floor "job" done to it before?

BTW, there's something wrong with you caps lock! I noticed your name in your profile is all caps too.

FYI, the use of all capital letters is difficult to read, and is akin to "yelling". It would be appreciated if you turn your caps lock off when posting. Many here are engineers by trade as well, and somehow our caps lock keys still function properly.

If your floor consists entirely of plywood, then the boat has had a new floor put in somewhere along the line. My recommendation would be to read up on several of the good rebuilds on this site. That will give you a good idea of how these boats were constructed.

My cap locks are on 99% of the time as I do architectural drawings all day. I find myself typing emails all the time in caps.

8122pbrainard wrote: [/QUOTE]

Greg,
That's a bad habit. Now, talking about people doing architectural drawing all day and having real bad habits, CQ emails me frequently and he is a real bad habit!

[/QUOTE]

MIKE, I HAVE TO AGREE WITH TIM. SOUNDS LIKE SOME WORK HAS BEEN DONE ON YOUR FLOOR BEFORE.

No previous work on the floor. I am the sole owner of the boat.This is good for me since it will make less work for me. And yes, I am from the old school , 30+ years on the drawing board or CAD where everything is in caps. Thanks for the help.

75 Tique wrote: 8122pbrainard wrote: Yes, I came from the real old before CAD days when all lettering was by hand. Even then, we lettered normally! Oh really, Pete? How many of you (other than Pete) remember these bad boys?

Larry,
I remember them well but, I also remeber not being allowed to use them in school. Then, afterwords, it was just as easy to letter by hand!

Remember when they wouldn't even allow you to use a slide rule?

When I was in architecture school, all lettering was in caps and graded. I worked for a surveyor for a couple years before the days of cad and all the lettering there was done in caps also. I find myself writing in caps when writing something out by hand but I have never emailed in all caps. It makes it hard to read for the recipient.

David

I'm new to the forums but found this one because I had the same initial question, "What to do about the foam?" I'm restoring a 78 Ski Nautique that's had a partial floor job in the past (about 15 years ago). There is now some isolated stringer rot that needs repaired as well, so I have a few questions:

1. Has anyone seen the site www.rotdoctor.com ? Is this a good option for stringer repair?

2. Does anyone recommend any type of synthetic flooring material instead of marine plywood?

AND...

3. What other options do I have besides replacing the foam? I couldn't believe how much water was in that stuff when I removed it! No wonder my boat sat so low in the water all those years.

Thanks.

Steve,
Wecome to CCfan. Trust me, you have found the site that really has all the answers!!

Tim above, mentioned doing some on site searching because all of your questions have been answered and at length but I'll give you some quick answers.

Rot Doc - only a "half a@@ed" shade tree mechanic repair. It may get you one or two extra seasons of use out of the boat but the danger is it not providing enough support to keep the engine/prop shaft in alignment. Then, you may end up with a trans repair. How bad is the rot? Have you checked the alingment?

Synthetic flooring - yes, composites have been used and there are complete threads on total stringer/floors using them.

Marine ply - Not worth the money!! It's only used for major structural components on hulls. Exterior grade ply uses the same glue and is water proof. The difference between the two is marine has no inner ply voids.

Back to the Rot Doc - Yes we do use his CPES on all wood going into a stringer/floor job as a prep and sealer for the epoxy resin used for glass layup.

We need pictures!!!!

Thats a Leroy?Replaced by merlin I believe.I'm in favor of hand lettering myself

Bob