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connorssons
Platinum Member Joined: January-17-2009 Location: Michigan Status: Offline Points: 1414 |
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Posted: April-22-2011 at 1:10am |
ready to foam? should i bed floor and inject, or pour with floor out? would prefer to bed floor first, just dont know how to go about it and not wreck all the work done earlier. how many holes as not to have floor raise? thx for the info. jeff
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Jeff,
What foam did you end up getting? The pour or injection? |
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connorssons
Platinum Member Joined: January-17-2009 Location: Michigan Status: Offline Points: 1414 |
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Pete! didnt buy yet, but ready to. if i get the injection type, which i want, will it push floor up, how many relief holes are needed if any. i think this type will reinforce the floor alot more then the 2 part pour? please help on this thx jeff
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BuffaloBFN
Grand Poobah Joined: June-24-2007 Location: Gainesville,GA Status: Offline Points: 6094 |
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Jeff, there's and old write-up about this with pics somewhere on here. Pete, did you post it? Brady? I know there's some discussion in the patch. Anyway, I had this decision to make as well. I used the pour meathod mostly because I stayed with the factory build. If you want the ply floor either way, then the injection meathod makes good sense. Be forwarned though; that stuff is gonna do what it's gonna do.
A few points: -pour foam can be hectic and you'll want a helper -pour foam is a little cheaper and I used a good bit more than expected -inj foam should be close to zero waste -inj foam will make its own skin except at the hole(s); I'd cut more than 1 -either way, a good bit of epoxy goes down before the first glass and that makes a darn good replacement skin What is your concern about wrecking earlier work? |
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Hollywood
Moderator Group Joined: February-04-2004 Location: Twin Lakes, WI Status: Offline Points: 13514 |
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Which is why I don't understand all the slamming on poured vs. injection foam. Both have a skin at the bottom, where water might sit and absorb into the foam. You make a new skin on the top where it's cut with resin. |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Jeff,
All you need is one hole to get the guns extension into the cavity. 1&1/2" is fine. The pressure isn't alot unless you overfill the cavity. Start filling at the farthest spot from the hole. Do it in stages allowing about 10 seconds between the "shots" for the foam to expand. Once you get a feel for how fast and how much, it will be easy! As long as your ply isn't real thin (under 1/2"), then the small distance between it's bonds/supports will keep it from bulging. You could place a concrete block in the middle, but I do not feel you will have a problem. You have/will be epoxy bonding the ply down correct? |
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connorssons
Platinum Member Joined: January-17-2009 Location: Michigan Status: Offline Points: 1414 |
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My concern is drilling holes in the floor after all the cpesing and glassing both sides and i dont want to put a hump in the floor either just a little nervous i dont want to wreck anything after all the darn work. and yes plenty of thickenedd resin to hold all floor sections down .
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connorssons
Platinum Member Joined: January-17-2009 Location: Michigan Status: Offline Points: 1414 |
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And yes thick floor 3/4 ply, also thick mat under floor for seat mounting screws, thx for the idea Benj!
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Jeff,
CPES, epoxy and use a low oz. glass on the holes before you inject. Will you be putting a layer of glass over the entire floor? You won't get a noticeable bump at the hole if some light fairing is done. |
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connorssons
Platinum Member Joined: January-17-2009 Location: Michigan Status: Offline Points: 1414 |
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Thanks Pete! going to move forward on the foaming this week.
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