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floor to hull

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lakedog55 View Drop Down
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    Posted: April-20-2011 at 1:25pm
Hi,
I found alot of info on the stringers and have almost finished that mojo.
What would be considered the correct attachment for floor to hull, A little worried about the sides in the front where the bottom hull gets tight to the floor, It seems like that is where they like to crack open.
Also any tips for battery box seems like another pita to get sealed up,
Yes and one more does anyone have a pattern for the wood in the seats for a 86 sn with the wrap around seating? I took mine apart well the fell apart and not much is left.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gun-driver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-21-2011 at 3:17am
I used thickened epoxy with milled fiber mixed in, I put it on all the stringers/bracing that the floor was going to sit on(like bedding brick in mortor) then set the floor on it with some light weights.
Floor to wall I went with 4", 6" then 12" cloth.
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WOFTAM View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WOFTAM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-21-2011 at 2:47pm
I would like to see this as well. Is there a need to tab the underside of the ply?
Pics of this would be nice.

What is the preferred method for reinforcing the area where the seat brackets will attach?

I would like to investigate the use of the threaded inserts. Anyone tried it?
Just because you can does not mean you should.
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TRBenj View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-21-2011 at 3:10pm
I did the same as Gun Driver. Anywhere the floor sat- stringer, rib, etc- got a good amount of thickened resin as bedding. This included the area at the front where the hull narrows and chine comes up, where the floor sits directly on the hull.



On our v-hull, the underside of the floor had to be trimmed slightly to sit all the way down in this area. The 2001 may be slightly different.

All floor panels were taped to the hull sides with at least 3 layers of glass- 2 cloth, 1 mat.

Again, a little different because of our material, but we added glass to the underside of the floor to improve screw retention. Where we knew the front seats would be mounting, we added a layer of biax.



I like the idea of threaded inserts. Something with a large shoulder, like a round base weld nut, so that it can be sealed properly, would be pretty cool.



The only problem is that they'd need to be secured prior to carpet- so it would require a lot of forethought on where to locate them.

I think that predrilling and then sealing any screws is also acceptable.
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lakedog55 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lakedog55 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-21-2011 at 8:10pm
Thanks,
Yes, the v-hull looks different but amazingly the same on the sides, Did you shorten the main stringers to put the bulk heads in or did they stop more towards the rear of the boat?
Lakedog55
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gun-driver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-22-2011 at 1:50am
Here's a pic of my floor before I matted the floor to the sides.

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TRBenj View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-22-2011 at 11:35am
Originally posted by lakedog55 lakedog55 wrote:

Thanks,
Yes, the v-hull looks different but amazingly the same on the sides, Did you shorten the main stringers to put the bulk heads in or did they stop more towards the rear of the boat?

Like you said, the v-hull is different, but similar in that area of the floor/hull connection. We extended the stringers a bit further forward from the original configuration, and added a bunch of extra bulkheads and ribs (since we did not re-foam) but the original still used a similar configuration.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lakedog55 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-26-2011 at 10:38am
Hi,
On your picture above . I know there is a piece of wood that sits on to of the motor cradle at the ski pylon. Mine did not come with that piece and I am not sure how big to make it. My floor clears the raised portion of the sled by less than an 1/8 and I can easily make it touch. Also I noticed my dog box angles off on the sides and I almost trimmed to much wood getting it roughed in. If anyone has a top view of this area it would be way cool
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Keeganino Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-26-2011 at 12:31pm
Here are some pics of the battery box I built















"working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WOFTAM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-27-2011 at 12:38am
Nice work.

Thanks for posting the images!

Is your battery box 3/4"?

Did you place anything between the bottom of the box and the top of the floor?

Just because you can does not mean you should.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WOFTAM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-27-2011 at 12:41am
What is that stuff? Too dark to be G-10. You are too smart to be using carbon...

Do tell.

Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

I did the same as Gun Driver. Anywhere the floor sat- stringer, rib, etc- got a good amount of thickened resin as bedding. This included the area at the front where the hull narrows and chine comes up, where the floor sits directly on the hull.



On our v-hull, the underside of the floor had to be trimmed slightly to sit all the way down in this area. The 2001 may be slightly different.

All floor panels were taped to the hull sides with at least 3 layers of glass- 2 cloth, 1 mat.

Again, a little different because of our material, but we added glass to the underside of the floor to improve screw retention. Where we knew the front seats would be mounting, we added a layer of biax.



I like the idea of threaded inserts. Something with a large shoulder, like a round base weld nut, so that it can be sealed properly, would be pretty cool.



The only problem is that they'd need to be secured prior to carpet- so it would require a lot of forethought on where to locate them.

I think that predrilling and then sealing any screws is also acceptable.
Just because you can does not mean you should.
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TRBenj View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-27-2011 at 1:19am
Originally posted by WOFTAM WOFTAM wrote:

What is that stuff? Too dark to be G-10. You are too smart to be using carbon...

Do tell.

coosa
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Keeganino View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Keeganino Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-27-2011 at 4:01am
Originally posted by WOFTAM WOFTAM wrote:

Nice work.

Thanks for posting the images!

Is your battery box 3/4"?

Did you place anything between the bottom of the box and the top of the floor?



The box is made of 1/2", but the floor is 2 layers of 3/4". Then I used 1/2" to make my pressure fitted lid since the 3/4" would have been sticking up once wrapped in carpet. The bottom of the box is bedded to a piece of wood that I glassed to the hull. I have been accused of overbuilding the floor in the front by using 2 layers of 3/4" ply from the pylon forward but oh well...

Tim's coosa build is pretty amazing stuff. Can't wait to see it one day.
"working on these old boats may not be cost effective but as it shows its what it brings into your life that matters" -Roger

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