1969 Mustang Stringer Rebuild

Thanks Jeff. I got the Harbor Freight planer. I removed the exhaust transom wood without it though. Ground around the edges then gently popped them out with a flat bar. Actually both sides where solid. The center transom piece seems to be as well so I'm thinking I'm going to leave that in as well as the newer swim platform pieces.

I think I'm mostly through with the grinding. Minus the main stringers. Cleared out the gel from the bilge. Got the wood out from the water pickups. Will have to get the rudder wood out once a main is out.

Also have one of my secondaries scribed and cut. Think it went pretty well, seems to fit. Have to adjust the height and embed. All my USC materials are here now.

Eric you out there? I assume you got my transmission????

yes, all done and ready to ship. the power planer is the ***************, I refaced my entire deck with that thing, skimmed the bottem of my doors inside the house, many uses

Shouldn't the tops of all the stingers be straight and level? Minus any notches. If I lay a straight edge on top of my original mains there is quite a dip in them. I would think for the floor to lay flat the stringers should all be straight on top.

I think you will be fine to install them this weekend as long as its not too cold and the cpes is not still sticky. I did not do any roughing up so you should be good there too.

Maybe its not such a big deal for the stringer tops to be nice and level if you build the floor like they did from the factory. With a ply floor I would think the more level it is the better it will turn out.

vondy wrote: Shouldn't the tops of all the stingers be straight and level? Minus any notches. If I lay a straight edge on top of my original mains there is quite a dip in them. I would think for the floor to lay flat the stringers should all be straight on top.

Hay Vond if the tops are not exactly straight the thickened epoxy will fill the voids. straighter the better tho.Jeff

You should be good to do them on Sunday.

TRBenj wrote: CPES contains epoxy, but it also contains solvents. This is what gives it such a thin consistency, allowing it to soak into the wood. Its important to let the solvents flash off before you glass over it. You only want the epoxy part of the CPES to be left behind.

Thanks, that makes sense.

So if it's not sticky would that mean it's good to go?

Look what came in from Eric.

David,
Wrap the first layer of glass into the drain holes as you go. Since you're pre glassing the holes, one extra layer of glass from the sides is fine. Then subsequent layers just do a half moon cutout.

That's some nice look'n wood!!

vondy wrote: Look what came in from Eric.

remember to put ATF before using!!!

Secondaries are bedded.






How long have you guys been waiting before you take the weights off and filet?

On the primaries, make sure you radius the tops with a 1/4 round bit on your router. It makes wrapping the biax easier, since it doesn't like to make sharp turns. With your secondaries, they'll only get biax up the sides, and cloth over the top. You'll want to watch the tops to make sure the cloth stays in contact with the wood.

Thanks guys. I rounded over the secondaries with a 1/4 inch bit and will do the same for the primaries.

Pete that was part of my back patio, since has been replaced with a deck. I have about a ton of brick as well that was half buried in my back yard. I knew it would eventually come in handy

TX Wind wrote: Hey David, lookin great. I would love to come by and see that before you're finished if that would be alright with you. I have to do my SN this winter.

Sure thing Jeff, I'll be working on her this coming up weekend if you wanna drop by.

David,
Kick the mains outward so you have the same amount of room for the engine. Keep in mind you'll probably end up with slightly more glass on them that what came out of the factory. Also, get a measurement between the mains and secondaries to make sure there's enough room for the exhaust. There should be because you aren't putting mufflers in correct?