302 teardown

Thanks Joe! Just got confirmation that it is in fact a 2 piece block. I guess our options at this point are

1. get a crank with no wick lines and use a bidirectional seal
2. grind off the LH lines and redo with RH lines
3. new one piece block with Reid's seal

When redoing the lines, how much clearance do you have before you start changing the size of the crank drastically?

Yeah what Reid said and newer crank sometimes also means new flywheel and balencer...

Joe, thanks for the heads up. Like Billy said, looks like I need to go on a search for a seasoned block with a 1 piece seal and order some more parts from Race City Marine

We haven't ordered a crank yet so if anyone has suggestions... I'll take them! I've heard an Eagle crank is the way to go but any numbers and corresponding parts would be helpful.

Right now my only concern is that we've already magnifluxed my block, bored it out and it's sitting ready to be built. I'll have to talk to John and see if I can barter my old block with him? Unless someone here has a need for a freshly bored 302 block so I can get my money out of it? If I can work something out so I don't loose too much money I'll be full speed ahead with a stroker, if not I may have reconsider and wait till my next project to build a stroker?

Well I've decided to use the stock crank on this one. If I could do it all over again, I would have gotten a seasoned one piece block and gone the stroker route.

Does anyone have suggestions on clearances when we put this thing back together? (Joe)

877-369-6693

I have the same basic setup Chris.I also have a 600 I'm rebuilding so I can try it out too. Since you already have the 450,why not just trying it? It's always easy to change. Mine was sure running fine last weekend,with JBear and Eddie in the back, it was moving right along

I agree with Gary and Eric- run the boat first and then decide.

That being said, Id probably opt for the 600. Reid had one on his baby blue 302, and my sister has one on her 302 Mustang, and neither had any driveability issues due to the larger carb.

Chris, like Ive always said, Im a huge fan of the DUI's. Both of the ones I have run really well. The only detractors I can think of are 1)price- theyre not cheap, 2)looks... sort of subjective, but some argue they look out of place on a vintage CC, especially a Ford, and 3)the PCM 302 *might* have some clearance issues with the thermostat housing. Joe may be able to lend some insight- I know he used one on his 302 Interceptor.

Look what is back in my possession!



Headed to Maui on Friday, still lots of work to do once I get back from vacation...I mean work trip!   

Sorry it's not the Waukesha blue. I decided I'd go with old ford blue out of preference since I can always paint it the darker waukesha later.

It'll be resting in the barn until I get home, can't wait to get home and put it back together.

Bringing this thread back from page 3.

I've been slowly working on getting the 302 back together and in the Ski Tique. I made some decent progress today and will hopefully be close to dropping it in the boat at the end of the week.

Thought I'd share some pictures of my progress.

Shop helper


Set up to put everything back together




Old damper plate


Trans back on


Thanks again to Pete B for taking another distress call from me this afternoon. Everything wen't back together well. I still have some gasket work to do on the circ pump but everything is real close to being bolted back on.

Feeling better about my progress, hope I can get some free time to finish everything up this week.

Looks good Chris. Did you receive the email I sent you last week?

Hey guys,
First time posting, love the site. I came across this thread because I have a similar situation. I have a 69 mustang that I am in the process of restoring. The engine is a 302hm that needs to be rebuilt. This project kind of fell into my lap a couple of years ago and it's basically been sitting on hold until now. I was given the original 302 block that was cracked and the rest of the engine accessories, an additional crank, and 2 additional sets of pistons. Two sets have valve reliefs and one set is flat top. The crank is reverse rotation and this is where I'm confused. I guess I assumed I was stuck with this crank because of it's rotation and corresponding parts----distributor/cam, etc. After reading this thread it seems like I may have more options. The older damaged block has been replaced with what I think is a newer style 302----Is there a way to tell the difference? I have picked up GT40P heads and an Edlebrock 2121 intake manifold. I would prefer to do a stroked 331. All of these parts were given to me by my automotive mechanic buddy. Do I need different valve springs? I thought I read somewhere when I first began this project that my major issue would be finding a reverse rotation cam. I know this is a lot to take in---any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Only you guy's with those fancy motors have those Keegan,he may not even have one.

[QUOTE=BrianForsythe] Hey guys,
First time posting, love the site. I came across this thread because I have a similar situation. I have a 69 mustang that I am in the process of restoring. The engine is a 302hm that needs to be rebuilt.QUOTE]

Welcome Brian. Start a new thread so more will see it.Post some pictures too, we love pictures.As to the block, it really does not matter what block you use,but the casting number is in the area above the starter. Post that number and someone will be able to ID. RR cams are available,valve springs will be recommended by the cam manufacture. Reverse cranks difference is in the main seal area.

Can you run points in the new Mallory's? I thought they were all electronic now.

Looks awesome