Deposit on another 86

Tighten the manifolds bolts back there and go wakeboarding already, you wont hear or smell it from the end of the rope.

Hollywood wrote: Check which spark plugs are in it, all of them. Some new owners on here have reported buying a boat with progressively hotter plugs toward the rear to burn the richer fuel mixture, seems hokey to me but something worth quicking checking.

HW- All new champion 401s in there. Had the NGK equivalent in there before and was doing the same thing.

Tim- I'll get my PB blaster ready and swap the gasket.

Check which spark plugs are in it, all of them. Some new owners on here have reported buying a boat with progressively hotter plugs toward the rear to burn the richer fuel mixture, seems hokey to me but something worth quicking checking.

Update, with a few questions

Done wetsanding, boat came out great. I took the boat out yesterday and it ran exactly what it should, a little faster than I expected. With just me in the boat and a 1/4 tank of fuel I bounced it to 46.8 on iPhone gps speedometer. Consistently ran 46.

Here's what I have for questions. I have a weird rubber burning smell/puff of smoke when I open up the motorbox after going around the lake at any speed above 1500 Rpms. It has nothing to do with the belts, It appears to be predominantly coming from cylinder 8 area. I brough my infared temp gun out with me yesterday and the topside of the "header" part of the manifold is getting to about 330+ - a few degrees.

When I say top side of the "header", I'm shooting the laser temp gun down between the gap between the valve cover and the manifold at the part of the manifold before any water gets to it.

To me 330 doesn't seem like that much, but it seems to be 80-100 degrees hotter than any other part of the manifold at any other cylinder.

Is 330 enough to be melting the exhaust manifold gasket?

I do hear a slight tick on that side of the motor that I dint hear on the other side of the motor. But it's not loud enough that I'm definitively thinking manifold gasket.

Thanks guys
Eric

Wow

Great effort. Looks great.

Donald

By the way, I might have missed the post, but did you run your boat around the lake? Any concerns with engine/transmission performance? Ken

In my dreams Chris!

Brian- lower the nose of the trailer to the ground. Block the rear at that point with the as$ as high as possible. Then bring the nose of the trailer up as high as possible. Block the nose and bring the trailer back down. Inch it out till you hit a crossbeam then lift the nose with a bottle jack and re block appropriately till it's out.

Pain in the butt but as you saw I needed a trailer to pick up that barracuda in ct

Looks awesome Eric, can't wait to see it at Green Lake in a few weeks

Eric,
Some don't appreciate the work it takes to bring old glass back to life but most here do. Keep up the good work!

C-Bass wrote: Eric...is that by hand or with a DA sander? Looks great so far! Love the reverse gels, especially that blue. Probably my favorite 2001 color combo. One other question...how do you manage to go around the decals, or do you just go right over them with the sanding?

I've only been doing the bottom blue section with wetsanding. Which I've been doing by hand. For this boat I'll be sticking with by hand. The next project I'll invest in one of those water enducing DA sanders to see how it works.

The plan for the stripe and upper blue is just a series of compounds and wax. They're pretty good. I'll leave the decals on and buff over them slowly. Hopefully they hold together.

I appreciate the compliments guys. Should be done sanding by end of next week with an after work session each day.

Eric...is that by hand or with a DA sander? Looks great so far! Love the reverse gels, especially that blue. Probably my favorite 2001 color combo.

One other question...how do you manage to go around the decals, or do you just go right over them with the sanding?

Get out of my thread you dirty spam diarrhea

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Here are some pictures from last night and tonights work.

It was slow going at first deciding which grit to go down to. Eventually I decided 400 was good. 400,600,1000,1500 grit paper.

These pictures are with super duty compound and a quick coat of wax. I still have to do the finishing steps but I want to do all the finesse-it and wax at one time since ill be slinging compound and sky blue gelcoat liquid for the next week after work.

Eric, go as far as you need to smooth the area of the crack- to the point you cant feel it with your fingernail anymore. Hopefully by then youre throught the oxidation as well. Smoothing it out and restoring the color is as good as you can do- from more than a few feet away it will be way tougher to see them.

I think I went down to 320 on the deck of my '90.