cutlass bearing questions

I prefer brass and rubber, 1 piece is easier but is getting harder to get by. 2 pieces are fine too.

You dont need to take off the rudder.

Dont go hitting on the coupler as you will crap the tappers. You need an extractor for it. It's a good idea to have one made for the strut bearing as well.

Best price I've found deepblueyachtsupply

I use the freezer for installation.


Looks like they've gone up. Last one was 34.00.
Of course that's better than 62.00 locally.

Tom,
Deepblue has it but it's the regular wax/flax packing and not the god Gortex.

not sure the 78 strut are the same..but in my 92 the 6" is the one..
didn´t know that when I bought mine, so I was 2" short...

price is fine go2marine has them listed in 51 for the 4"

Tom,
The 4" is the one.

I used nothing, just cleaned the bore with fine grit to smoothen the surface, and the installer did the trick!!!

Coupler removal its easy using the longer bolt and socket trick, putting it back toghether is more complicated if you have a single taper shaft, as it needs to be shrink fitted, dual taper is piece of cake!!!

horkn wrote: Seb, is there any way to tell before you take the coupler apart if it is a dual or single taper? Shrink fitting, do you mean heating the coupler? Like the opposite of throwing the cutlass bearing in the freezer?

Tom,
The dual taper ARE shaft system is relatively new so you have the single taper. Be prepared to use the deep socket and threaded rod trick to get it off the prop shaft. Yes, it is heat shrink to fit back on. Do measure the bore and shaft. It should be .000 to about - .0005" interference. If it's not within that, then it has fretted due to a misalignment problem. Instead of having to purchase a new coupling half and having it bored to match the old shaft, the ARE system is the way to go.

Yes, the coupling is heated and then quickly put onto the shaft and it will shrink down.

ok, got my parts. headed to the store now for threaded rod and washers.

what do you think about these pics...

I think the strut is not aligned....

the port side has a slightly larger gap.

Tom,
Your strut is definitely whacked and even look's bent (twisted)! Don't forget about this:

8122pbrainard wrote: Yes, it is heat shrink to fit back on. Do measure the bore and shaft. It should be .000 to about - .0005" interference. If it's not within that, then it has fretted due to a misalignment problem.

How's the log look?

DrCC wrote: What happened to the four blade Acme?

I slightly dinged it, and that is why I am running the old federal 3 blade.

I really don't think that hit caused the acme 208 to get dinged up got the strut out of line though. Maybe it did bump the strut out of line, but it couldn't have been enough to bend the strut. Those cnc props are not very durable and ding easily. I think that is more of an optical illusion, as the strut simply looks a little crooked as it mounts to the hull, and not bent out of whack.


The shaft is only off .015 from port to starboard at the coupler. The strut looks to be clearly off more than that.

Also, notice the strut appears to have no set screws for the cutlass bearing? There appears to be 2 raised casting nubs, but no threaded holes with set screws in them.

horkn wrote: Also, notice the strut appears to have no set screws for the cutlass bearing? There appears to be 2 raised casting nubs, but no threaded holes with set screws in them.

Tom,
As long as your pulling the cutlass and even if you find you don't need to pull the strut for straightening (I have a feeling you will from the pictures), drill and tap for some 1/4-28 soc. head SS set screws. I think I have a bunch since I needed to buy 100 of them way back. Tell me, if needed, I'll mail several of them too you. You could probably get by with 1/4-20's but the strut is pretty thin there - on the other hand, you're not talking big time torque needs ether!!

EDIT: The SS set screw I have are 1/4-20's.

Was the strut blue in a former life? I've been wrong about this before, but there are some signs of repair to the strut boss?

Strut first; get it loose and see what's underneath. You may have glass work to do. Then you may want to make a mock up with a dowel to see about the strut. Something's way out though, as you see in the pic with the rudder.

And you need some stainless safety wire.

You should be able to straighten the strut.

remove the prop shaft. (if you haven't already)
remove the rudder.
remove the hose and stuffing box from the shaft log.
re-install the strut.

My favorite tool is an old prop shaft.
You can bend the strut back into position just by pushing or pulling on the tool.
Don't get too carried away. Use just a few quick pulls at a time. Take the tool out and check for alignment with your prop shaft.   Not enough, do it again. Too much, bend back the other way.