cutlass bearing questions

DrCC wrote: You should be able to straighten the strut. remove the prop shaft. (if you haven't already) remove the rudder. remove the hose and stuffing box from the shaft log. re-install the strut. My favorite tool is an old prop shaft. You can bend the strut back into position just by pushing or pulling on the tool. Don't get too carried away. Use just a few quick pulls at a time. Take the tool out and check for alignment with your prop shaft.   Not enough, do it again. Too much, bend back the other way.

Al, the strut appears to be about 3/8 to 1/2" in the middle section. Is that reallythat easily bent with a shaft? Can the hull take that kind of stress?

There are stamping id's on it. AF25006

Does that sound like a cc part?

Tom,
Yes, Al's method of strut straightening does work however if you feel uncomfortable about it, you can take it to Northside prop Take your prop in for a tune up while you're at it.

Regarding the "nubs" on the strut, are you sure they aren't slotted head brass set screws? It was common to use them and then I have seen the heads ground off.

DrCC wrote: There are plenty of struts out there that do not have set screws. If my strut did not have set screws, I probably would not add them. I've never seen a cutlass back-out in a non-set strut.

I have so I'd add the set screws. It was riding against the prop hub and actually wore a grove in it. Struts are notorious for poor quality machining.

Al,
What is the tolerance of fit for the cutlass to the strut bore??

I would have straightened the strut before removing the old cutlass. Or at least get it close. Then final adjust with the new cutlass.

OD tolerance should be plus to minus .001

Sounds like an isolated instance where the installer was having difficulty and started removing material from the bore instead of taking it to a press.

Cool. I'm doing it in the right order. :)

The strut moves easier than I expected. Now I need to get it bent a little back tocenter since it moved easier than I thought it would. Shouldn't be a problem.

After I get it straight I will take the old cutlass out, then try to get the ground off set screws out. If that can't be done I will drill them out and at worst drill and tap a new one for a set screw. I've got a 1/4-20 tap and handle.   Thanks for the offer if the set screws, but my local hw store has them.

horkn wrote: While the motor may be MA a little, I think the real issue is the strut being not in line with the DS.

Im sure Pete and Al will get you squared away, but its worth mentioning that the above statement implies that you really dont understand the concept of alignment. As Pete would say, "it starts from the strut forward."

DrCC wrote: Tom,   Would you measure the length of your prop shaft for me. Thanks AT

I was thinking about that yesterday from rob's thread.

50" alan.


Yes, i'll be watching the alignment vid a few times.

Tom,
I really don't know why you even removed the strut let along trying to press out the old cutlass. All it takes is one cut with the hack saw our sawsall to relieve the press fit (don't worry about cutting into the strut slightly) and then a punch to curl it in on itself. It should come right out!!

Maybe Charlie and myself pissing in the lake a couple years ago really did have an impact on the corrosion down by you bonding the brass together!!!

I did get a portion of it out, but it really is being stubborn. Way more stubborn than you would ever imagine.

I'm thinking that that 3/4" wide bit x 1.5" long of material out of it will allow me to press it out.

I'll try to go ape on it in a minute.

The old sealant was very gummy, and pretty sparse. It sealed, but I bet that it is not any where near as good as modern 5200.   

So, 5200 sealant... reading about it I hear some really nasty things.


Is there any other sealant that you guys would use? 4200 seems like a better idea as the 5200 is nearly non removeable.

The putty that was on my boat before def was not 5200 as it was very soft and didn't put up any resistance to pull the strut out.



I see sikaflex is another product people use.

And make sure it doesn't get in my hair;)

Also some "Sweet Baby Rays" BB-Q sauce might make the coupling more delicious.

Tom,

Please let us know how that coupler reinstall goes.

Donald

Tom,
Glad to here the coupling half install went well.

I wouldn't worry too much about the loctite. If you have some put it on but if not, those things have stayed there many years before the stuff was invented.

Yep, it did go well. Last night I finished putting the goretex packing in, that was much easier than I thought. I put 2 pieces in first, then got it hand tight, and installed the third piece. I tightened the packing nut as tight as it was before, and I tried to use the hose to get water to go from the inside out. That test allowed no visible water to drip, so it must be good. I'll bring wrenches to adjust today if necessary. I washed the bilge out and used some soap to get some crud out of the bilge.

The DS turns easily by hand now. I will have to re check alignment when in the water though.


I just have to find my SS safety wire and put that on the coupler bolts.

Alan, I took the top half of the lightning rod out of the boat just for today, but didn't have a chance to do any vacuuming as I wanted to.   There isn't a scum line right now either and shouldn't be today since the water where I am going today is crystal clear.

Robb,   yeah, you've had a bit of fun with your marty.   Have a safe and fun 4th everyone!