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Jllogan
Platinum Member Joined: May-18-2011 Location: canton, OH Status: Offline Points: 1728 |
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Posted: August-25-2011 at 10:42pm |
So I inspected my distributor and it seems to be ok. However, I noticed the weights were a little rusty. They still seem to be functioning ok right now but the boat is still not running right. I did notice however there are two different size springs on the weights. Is that normal? Or is this rigged up somehow? I am having a hard time finding any weights or springs for this dizzy, any suggestions.
Also if I were to switch to an electronic conversion kit that wouldnt elminate the weights would it? Also if I bought a new distributor say a mallory electronic would there be any advantage to that route over converting my existing one to electronic or would it essentially be the same thing. I am just brain storming at this point as I still dont know what is wrong with the boat. |
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boat dr
Grand Poobah Joined: June-27-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 4245 |
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Have you put a timing light on it yet? This is the only way to tell if the advance is working properly, you should get about 25 degrees of advance at 2500 rpm. If your numbers are different, less, then the dizzy is at fault. Sounds like its time for new Mallory...........Boat dr
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MMT
Groupie Joined: July-12-2010 Location: Northeast IN Status: Offline Points: 74 |
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Yes they are supposed to hav 2 different springs. Its kind of like a 2 stage advance. And no the electronic kit only replaces the points and condenser. Weights remain in place for the timing advance purposes. Hope this helps....
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Jllogan
Platinum Member Joined: May-18-2011 Location: canton, OH Status: Offline Points: 1728 |
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ya it does. It is definitely advancing, however I didnt check exactly how far but I thought it looked like around 20 degrees or so. I just cant figure why its idleing so rough. I keep thinking its timing related because it was out of time when I checked it but when I adjusted the dist to make it back in time, it got a little better but still isnt right.
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81nautique
Grand Poobah Joined: September-03-2005 Location: Big Rock, Il Status: Offline Points: 5778 |
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So you have the motor back together and running?
Where is your initial timing at? 10 degrees? You don't need a fancy timing light to check total, just rev the engine and record the timing at different rpms up to point the timing stops advancing. That number is your total advance, keep in mind it is affected by your initial so you must get that dialed in first. Without going back to your other thread I need to ask, is this engine in perfect tune,ie: new points, gap/dwell set correctly ,new condenser, cap, rotor, wires, plugs? Have you thrown a vacuum gauge on it? What did it read at idle? You've checked for vacuum leaks at the carb base gasket? I seem to recall you did a compression test and all was good there right? |
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You can’t change the wind but you can adjust your sails
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81nautique
Grand Poobah Joined: September-03-2005 Location: Big Rock, Il Status: Offline Points: 5778 |
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Also, yes the springs are different sizes. Is there any tension on the weight at rest, there should be very slight tension on the first spring. That allows for very quick advance off of idle but it that primary spring is not holding that weight back slightly then your timing could be jumping all over the place.
Next thing I would do is disconnect the timing light and time it by ear. Just advance the dist until the idle picks up and the engine smooths out. Back the idle speed down to your normal idle and go for a test ride. Listen for pinging at high rpms and then try to restart it when it's hot. If it pings or starts hard (starter turns over slowly) back the timing down just a tick and repeat. |
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You can’t change the wind but you can adjust your sails
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Jllogan
Platinum Member Joined: May-18-2011 Location: canton, OH Status: Offline Points: 1728 |
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The engine is not back together yet, but will be this weekend, so I will have more info then.
I will do what you said to check total advance and record those numbers. Ok my initial timing was set at 6 degrees according to the manufacturer suggestion and was there for 50 hours with no sweat. Then one day bam, running like crap and out of time. I have in the last 50 hours replaced the plugs, plug wires and dist cap. I will try 10 degrees based on the suggestions made on this sight. I have not checked or replaced rotor, cond or points but seriously am considering it. Is this the correct kit? tune up kit I will try 10 degrees based on the suggestions made on this sight. As far as a vacuum check, no I have not, what is your reccomendation for testing that? The carb was rebuild about 50 hours ago as well. |
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Jllogan
Platinum Member Joined: May-18-2011 Location: canton, OH Status: Offline Points: 1728 |
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Also alan,
I got the prop the other day, that thing is huge!! compared to the stock one. I am excited to use it but gotta get this running issue ironed out right now. |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Justin,
Bad link fixed: tune up kit Didn't I fix one for you the other day? You're not doing something correct!! |
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Jllogan
Platinum Member Joined: May-18-2011 Location: canton, OH Status: Offline Points: 1728 |
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Pete,
Yours didnt work either, I fixed mine in my original post. |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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I normally check my own links by useing the "preview post" but this time I was called out of my office and just posted it!! It did work the first time when I copied your link and it took me right to Summits page!! |
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Jllogan
Platinum Member Joined: May-18-2011 Location: canton, OH Status: Offline Points: 1728 |
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Ehh who knows!!! Computer gremlins!!!
Pete, You are of the line of thought that its still ok to redo the points right? You dont see it being an issue buying that tune up kit and forgetting about the electronic conversion kit. I have no idea when the points,rotor, condensor were changed as I bought the boat in may so I am guessing they could due. |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Justin,
Yes, I'd go back with the point set. Set your dwell with the feeler gauge and then double check it with the dwell meter. |
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Jllogan
Platinum Member Joined: May-18-2011 Location: canton, OH Status: Offline Points: 1728 |
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does that look like the right one to you? It says its for a prestolite v8. Summit has the best price, skidim has the parts but you have to buy them separate and it ends up being 30+ by then, I thought the rotor looked a little different than mine on that kit.
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Jllogan
Platinum Member Joined: May-18-2011 Location: canton, OH Status: Offline Points: 1728 |
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Still not running right. I tried to hook a vacuum gauge up to where the PCV valve goes into the spacer and it read a little low and on my gauge it suggested the vacuum was due to timing. However, according to the timing light I am at 10 BTDC. So that seems weird.
I also noticed that when I took the flame arrester off there was a significant amount of water drops sittle on the throttle plates. Is that unusual? or a sign of water in the gas? I am going to try to run some fresh gas in since this whole thing started right after I fueled up. |
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Jllogan
Platinum Member Joined: May-18-2011 Location: canton, OH Status: Offline Points: 1728 |
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Ok so I ran 2 gallons of fresh 89 octane with some seafoam in it, through the engine. There may have been minor improvement but it is still runnning rough and backfiring. Also I noticed more this time than before (maybe due to wind direction). The exhaust was really fumey, running rich?
Does anyone have any clues as to what my problem may be? I am really stumped. Compression is good and it is in time according to the light. The carb was rebuilt 50 hours ago. HELP!!!! |
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Jllogan
Platinum Member Joined: May-18-2011 Location: canton, OH Status: Offline Points: 1728 |
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What about points? If they would going bad would it run rough?
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SNobsessed
Grand Poobah Joined: October-21-2007 Location: IA Status: Offline Points: 7102 |
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I suggest pulling some plugs - if they are black it would point back to the carb - power valve may be ruptured from a backfire.
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“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”
Ben Franklin |
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Jllogan
Platinum Member Joined: May-18-2011 Location: canton, OH Status: Offline Points: 1728 |
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I have pulled them and there are a quite a few that are black. They have also only been in about an hour of runnning time as that was one of the first things I have replaced.
Also one other side note is that the rotor on the distributor wiggles a little on the shaft. Should that be tight or have some play in it. Maybe that could be the issue? |
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SNobsessed
Grand Poobah Joined: October-21-2007 Location: IA Status: Offline Points: 7102 |
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Doubt the rotor is the issue but could be wrong. That would be a cheap part swap to rule it out.
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“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”
Ben Franklin |
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MMT
Groupie Joined: July-12-2010 Location: Northeast IN Status: Offline Points: 74 |
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Napa has all the parts for your distributor. I just bougt all mine there for the prestolight. If your local store doesnt have them in stock they can probably have them next day. |
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Jllogan
Platinum Member Joined: May-18-2011 Location: canton, OH Status: Offline Points: 1728 |
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Would a weak coil cause rough running? Does anyone know what numbers I should be looking for while testing the coil?
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Bri892001
Grand Poobah Joined: September-27-2008 Location: Boston MA Status: Offline Points: 4947 |
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Skidim, Nautiqueparts, MyCorrectCraftParts (Boat Dr. above) all sell complete tune up kits for Marine Prestolites. I'd tend to go that route over Summit etc.
Does your rotor and shaft together wiggle? That is normal. If the rotor is not super tight onto the shaft, and wiggles in respect to that, that could be a problem. That would mean the base of the rotor is cracked and/or it's not all the way seated. Carb wise, are you getting any internal leaking after shutdown. In other words, if you have it running with the Spark Arrestor off, and shut off the motor, do you see that gas is still leaking out of the boosters? Could be some debri got loose after the rebuild and clogged up a needle and seat or something. |
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Jllogan
Platinum Member Joined: May-18-2011 Location: canton, OH Status: Offline Points: 1728 |
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No leaking after shutoff but carbs are touchy so you could right something could be clogged up. That will be the last thing I do is yank that thing off and open it up.
The rotor was wiggling a little on the shaft but when I put a new one on, which is much tighter, my problem still persisted ( I rechecked timing at this point as well.)I havent changed the points or condensor yet as I havent have time. Should I be testing the coil as well? What should I be looking for? or is it better to test voltage at the end of the plug wire. |
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skinaut
Senior Member Joined: September-10-2008 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 209 |
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I just had simular trouble after a tune up. turned out the new point condenser went bad. new points and condenser from NAPA cured it. $18
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Jllogan
Platinum Member Joined: May-18-2011 Location: canton, OH Status: Offline Points: 1728 |
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tried that
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