Marina Says New Carb?

how long does it have to cool down before it will restart. this sounds like an electrical resistance problem to me.

there may be a slight issue with the carb but buying a new one isn't going to fix it. The float could be a little high but I would check the timing and the coil.

sounds like the coil is an issue what type of igntion system do you have? points, electronic conversion, electroinc dist? if it's a point style is the ballast resitor good? what type of carb is it holley, edlebrock, rochester?

What did they set the float heigth at? what is the timing at?

replace the ballast resistor you could be sending to much voltage to the coil and points.

so does the coil have an internal resistor? if it doesn't then you have to use a ballast resistor or you burn up the coil and points both and that's why it's getting hot.

i would say the balast resistor is bad and you need a new one. i would also say the the timing isn't exactly right because the dwell as not been set, and you cannot set the timing correctly until the dwell is correct.

it's the angular measurement of the points. setting the points with a feller gauge gets you close but you have to have a dwell meter to get it right, then you can adjust the timing and carb and everthing else.

If your going to replace anything it need's to be the old distributor with a new electroinc version or a conversion kit to eliminate the points.

you can get a mallory unit from summit racing for a little over $300

Ok so it sounds like I need and electronic conversion kit. I've read some other posts on this site and some have had great success and some have had nightmares and even switched back to points. I tired of the problems already so I guess it can't hurt, just takes cash!!! What is the best kit/where to buy and should I have a marina/mechanic do this?? Pretty sure I don't want to tackle that.

I have a pertronix - have had it about three years but only installed it about a month ago. i'm pleased with it and yes the boat runs better. Note the pertronix i have doesn't require you to bypass the resister and you have to use a points type coil.

and yes you cab tackle this yourself

stang72 wrote: The fact that your coil is getting that hot would lead me to think....wrong type of coil and or balister needs replaced...or wired wrong??? Most of us on the older engines are using a 12 volt coil that requires an external balister...my pertronix ei...set up is using the balister with the same coil I used with the points set up....

thats the one i got

If his coil had "use no external resistor" stamped on it, it has an internal resistor.

When a failing coil gets hot the winding often opens up. Allowing it to cool will allow it to function. What you describe is a text book bad coil.

If replacing the coil fixes the problem you should still install the Pertronix kit - it is a light years leap from points ignition.

My advise is when replacing your coil get a coil that requires a resistor. If you keep your breaker points you will need to put your resistor back into the circuit.

If you install the Pertronix kit follow the instructions regarding the resistor. You may be able to leave the resistor jumpered out when using the Pertronix kit providing for a hotter spark then you would get with the resistor in the circuit.

In other words, the primary will reduce your spark voltage somewhat, but the ignition is designed that way. The resistor is needed to keep your points and coil from burning up. This is somewhat of a holdover from the days when the resistor was shorted out during cranking to allow a higher spark voaltage to help get the engine started - but the high current would burn up the coil and points if the resistor was not brought back into the circuit after cranking.

Follow the instructions on the Pertronix kit and you shouldn't have a problem.