Cam selection and install

Bill, I bought the springs/locks/retainers from the same company that's doing my cam (Cam Research) so I think Im ok there. Right now I am leaning towards not converting to stud mounted roller rockers and putting the money towards gas! With the next rebuild I will go all out.

I only plan to run 5000-5200 RPM at the most, so the upgrade isnt necessary anyways. Ill buy a $10 shim kit and hope that I can reuse my pushrods.

I'll have to look into gasket-matching the exhaust manifolds, I know theyre a major restriction. Sounds like a good winter project that will hold me over until I can afford those HiTek headers!

First J_I_H post in quite-a-while. Glad to see it. I was gettin' worried about ya.

Only way I know how to go faster is to push down the throttle, but I do like to read these guys!


john

Another good idea, if you can find a carb with annular discharges. They produce great acceleration and tough top end. PCM used used the 4010 Holley however because they couldn't solve a simple problem they scraped all of them..
However they are still used today on the drag strip. It was made in 600 and 750 cfm. A dual plane manifold uses only one half of the carb, ex a 600 only 300 goes to each bank. If you notch the divider you can get more dense charge. On the other hand a open plenum does just the opposite. Also float levels are very critical on holleys.

Well, its all back together... almost. I need a longer fuel line and throttle bracket due to the taller manifold. Just a few minor things and it should be ready for the water. I measured the motorbox and it looks like the existing flame arrestor may clear the motorbox by 1/4".

Looks great, a tip, Ford heads have a problem of lifting. Now with being said this can be from high compression or even too much water pressure.
I would suggest that you have the heads milled for ringed gaskets. This will eliminate lifting of the heads and or blowing gaskets. Remember Ford heads only have a three bolt pattern.

Bill, Im not familiar with the lifting issue. Ive done a lot of reading on Ford heads and this is the first Ive heard of it. Ive got new ARP head bolts, torqued to spec.

Gottaski, I cant wait to get it running either. The plan is sometime next week. For now, I dont plan on getting a new carb @ $500+, so a shorter flame arrestor is the way Ill be going, if necessary. I think I could go with a larger (diameter) filter element without impacting clearance though- with the slight angle of the manifold my carb is mounted almost perfectly level.

Can I get a 3/8" steel fuel line from any autoparts store? A friend has the tool to make the flares, and possibly a bender. I just need ~26" of line.

Youre right, it would be a shame to choke the motor right off the bat- and Im well aware that it could happen! Once I get the motor cover installed and know exactly how much room I have to work with, Ill probably pick out something in a larger diameter to try and increase airflow.

Any tips on where to find the solid steel fuel line? Is that a standard item?

Thanks '79. I know its 3/8" OD, I need ~26".

Don't they sell head gaskets in different thickness increaments for this purpose? And do they need an undercut in the heads around the CC to seal with the ring in the head gasket or keep it from blowing out?

'79, I got 60" of brake line with the right fittings at Autozone yesterday. Just gotta bend it into shape, cut it and put the flare on the end.

The heads were milled just enough to ensure a nice flat surface- standard practice according to my machine shop. I checked the preload on the lifters and had to use the .030" shims on both intake and exhaust to get within the .020-.040" range.

Bill, Im sure you know this, but the GT40p's have much smaller combustion chambers than the stock 351w heads- I think theyre 59cc (stock). Add the fact that they were milled a touch and theyre even smaller, so my compression ratio will be quite a bit higher than stock. I calculated it a while back and think it will be somewhere around 9.5:1. We checked piston-valve clearance without the head gasket and there's plenty of room there.

The Dude, Im glad you enjoyed this thread. Im not an expert by any means, so I appreciate everyones input here. Its been fun so far, but I cant wait to get on the water!

79, not sure if youre disagreeing with me or not, but (as you may know) the GT40p's are quite different from the regular GT40's. Theres a great article here that highlights all the differences, including the 59cc combustion chambers.

If you search around for heads, Edelbrock,etc you will see that ring cut heads are available. They use an special wire gasket and last for years, no leaks. I don.t think oversize gaskets are available for 351, however I stand to be corrected. The marine 351 have again about 15-19 deck clearance, why change the CC. The GT 40 heads are much better than their counterparts, many changes, however they too will lift when squeezing more CC. You are on the money the compression will be about 9-5-1.

I read your artical and it seems they say compared to the 59cc's and don't say they are 59??? there is a big difference between the p's and 40's but there is a big difference between the 59's and power heads with the 1.90/1.60 valves TTTTOOOOOOO, and some porting, little polishing then your playing with the big dogs and the bigger numbers on the chart you reference.

'79, by "power heads" are you referring to the '69-70 351w heads?

For those of you who have upgraded their intake manifolds: what have you done to relocate the throttle bracket?

In case anyone wants to see what I did to relocate the throttle bracket, here's a pic. It became very easy once I had the motor in front of me. Everything is all back together (on the motor, anyway) with the exception of the fuel line and alternator. Once I get my end flared I can tie everything up. Water test should be tomorrow... hopefully it all comes together!