New Owner

Ross - for launching, I just keep going back until I see the stern start to float. If the ramp is not steep enough for that, then as deep as I can get it. For loading, I go just deep enough so the fenders are just under the water. This seems to work for both my 98 and my Dad's 63 Ski. Completely different trailers, but the theory seems to work.

Thanks for all the quick replies.
mdvalant shoot me a pm with a price on that ACME 422. The prices i'm seeing online scare me seeing how I'm in pretty deep so fare. I'm sure it would lower my top end and just give me a better hole shot right?

skutsch I've been concerned when backing off every time with the potential of hitting the trailer, but I just looked at the pics again and with the marks on the trailer being were they are I had to have done it loading I think...correct me if I'm wrong guess I could have drifted over once I cleared and just nicked it.

quinner the pic of the flite pipe being strapped to the lift ring was a pic from the previous owner, but thanks for looking out for me on that one.

with all of this being said I'm backing in to were the fenders are just under the water maybe 1-3 inches and still have to give it a nice bump on the throttle to start moving backwards. Is this wright or wrong? Not a lot of inboards around me just bass boats. I know the ramp has a lot to do with this I just don't know how to read it yet.

Lovin this site

mdvalant wrote: That's odd that it can hit the trailer, with your uprights you shouldn't be able to hit that trailer with the prop, even though you clearly did. Wonder if you need to do a little trailer modification so that can't happen again?

No so odd Mike, it's happened to me. Shallow ramp reversing off, prop "paddle wheels" the boat to the port, bam your in the trailer. The guide posts have to be wide enough to allow the beam through, but with the taper to the stern, you can't set them close enough to keep it from happening. One prop repairs later and I have learned no matter what DON'T RUSH!!!!

Congrats on the new boat!!

FYI, Your Flite Pipe (Extended Pylon) should not be attached to the front lifting ring, if you have a strap in front, it should wrap around the bow down to the tow ring.

I would say, you should get it fixed, next time you take it out, it will vibrate (and you will likely see a degradation in performance). It may not seem bad, but the vibration is going to start to reek havoc on everything upstream (transmission, engine, etc). You might want to consider purchasing a ACME422, that has been a very good upgrade, especially if you are predominately wakeboarding. TRBenj can confirm for sure (as I have the next generation Sport hull)but I thnk that 422 would be a good upgrade. Delta Prop has a discount for CCF, so check there first for prices.

I would think if your spending a good amount of time in fresh water at the end of the trip, that should be just as good if not better than a flush on the hose.

The prop, hmmm, not sure. It doesn't look too bad, as long as you're not feeling a vibration. Is it the original prop? If so, you would probably get improved performance by going with a newer ACME.

You can remove the thumb screws, and (gently) lift the dash, yup. You can remove the whole thing, but you might be getting into a bigger job than you really need too. A few things would have to be disconnected etc., although, it's not a big deal. If you can get to the bracket fastener, you can leave the dash attached. It helps if you have someone who can hold it up for you, or rest it on the steering wheel.

One place you can find your gauge on this page:
http://www.nautiqueparts.com/gauges_fuel.aspx
I think it is the top row, middle for your boat.

What's wrong with the fuel gauge?