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Bri892001 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-31-2012 at 2:11pm
Tim, did that tubing come with the syringe? Did you buy the setup together?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Morfoot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-31-2012 at 1:59pm
Originally posted by Morfoot Morfoot wrote:

No one adressed your speedo problem so first thing to do is check to make sure the pitots aren't clogged up. That's usually the culprit so I remove the rubber tubing from the top of the pick up (Pitot) use a syringe with rubber tubing filled with water connect it to the pitot and force the obstruction out. If you don't have the means to do this a small fish hook usually works to dig out the trash partially blocking the hole.


Just to add some visual to this as I had forgotten that I had these pictures saved for future reference and stumbled across them.

Syringe tool I keep in the boat for back flushing the pitot if I have one clogged while out in the water. Works 95% of the time unless I really have an obstruction in there. The other pic is where your obstruction will be if speedos are slow to respond.






"Morfoot; He can ski. He can wakeboard.He can cook chicken.He can create his own self-named beverage, & can also apparently fly. A man of many talents."72 Mustang "Kermit",88 SN Miss Scarlett, 99 SN "Sherman"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Morfoot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-29-2012 at 11:52am
I dinged up my 540 last fall on a ramp lane curb about the same as yours and managed to straighten out the damage with a cresent wrench at Salty's house. I took time straightening it back to original form and used a straight edge to fine tune it, constantly measured and compared it to another blade. Was still concerned about performance and vibration issues until I took her out the next day to confirm that all was just fine.

I say straighten it yourself, save the money for a new prop and when time and money allows send your "spare" off to be checked out by the pros.
"Morfoot; He can ski. He can wakeboard.He can cook chicken.He can create his own self-named beverage, & can also apparently fly. A man of many talents."72 Mustang "Kermit",88 SN Miss Scarlett, 99 SN "Sherman"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tiger76 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-29-2012 at 11:29am
I'm gonna try to address the hose issue this evening if time allows and might take a look at the prop some more.
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8122pbrainard View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-29-2012 at 11:22am
Very good point Tim. Thanks


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-29-2012 at 11:06am
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Ross,
The prop is not soft brass. It's Nibral and harder than you think. Try it if you want but I feel you will end up doing more damage. Sent it to a prop shop and have them do the job on it. Then you'll have a good spare prop for when you get the new one.

Gotta disagree with you there, Pete.

The old school hand finished props perform pretty poorly on these larger ski boats, as compared to the new CNC wheels with big, accurate blades. Night and day performance difference... which is why that old prop, even in mint condition, is only worth around $100 (maybe less if its been repaired). He'd have more into it than its worth if he got it fixed. I suspect that a few minutes spent with a hammer and a file will get it back into very useable shape. Probably no perceptible performance difference either.

Id save the $100 repair costs and put it towards a new prop instead! Or, if you dont care enough about the boats performance to justify spending $350 on a new prop, put that repair money into the gas tank. Either way, its not worth investing a dime into a professional repair on that prop, IMHO.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-29-2012 at 11:03am
Ross,
I go along with Chris's idea with the Teflon tape but just want to make one thing clear. The tape goes on the pipe treads of the flare adptor to the trans case. No tape on the actual flare fitting where the hose connects.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-29-2012 at 10:51am
I would pull the fitting out of the case & re-seal those threads, it looks to me that it is leaking there. Fluid usually doesn't run uphill. I had a similar leak, I think I used teflon tape, be careful not to let fragments of tape get inside the case.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lewy2001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-29-2012 at 3:45am
Originally posted by Tiger76 Tiger76 wrote:

You can see the outer cloth on the hose is wet with fluid, some under the wire for the temp sensor "i'm guessing that's what that is" and some in the threads were the hose connects to the cooler.


That is not a temp sensor it is the Neutral Safety Switch NSS. Glad it was a simple fix for you.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tiger76 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-29-2012 at 1:13am
I think it's leaking at the end connected to the tranny and running down to the cooler before dripping down. Would that end be a double wrench job as well?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lakedog55 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-29-2012 at 12:52am
Cool, hopefully that fixes it. When tightening up the lines on the cooler use two wrenches. The coolers are pretty thin using two wrenches will help to keep from cracking it. I would keep an eye on the tranny fluid sounds like someone changed fluid before selling. Not that thats a bad idea, but to be on the safe side I would keep an eye on it.
Mike
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tiger76 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-28-2012 at 10:53pm
Thank God!!! I think I've found the problem... you guys are great. So I had time to dig around this evening and it looks like its the tranny fluid cooling lines leaking. Not sure if the hose is bad or if it just needs to be tightened up...does it have an o-ring inside the fitting? Anyway here is the pics of what I saw. You can see the outer cloth on the hose is wet with fluid, some under the wire for the temp sensor "i'm guessing that's what that is" and some in the threads were the hose connects to the cooler.
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8122pbrainard View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-28-2012 at 8:24pm
Ross,
Here's the thread: proper prop installation


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-28-2012 at 8:19pm
Ross,
The prop is not soft brass. It's Nibral and harder than you think. Try it if you want but I feel you will end up doing more damage. Sent it to a prop shop and have them do the job on it. Then you'll have a good spare prop for when you get the new one.

If the prop has been properly installed, you will need a puller to get it off.

When you get the new prop, there's a thread on how to lap it to the shaft. I'll see if I can find it for you.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tiger76 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-28-2012 at 6:42pm
with the damage to the prop being so small could I not just bend the tip back over with an adjustable wrench? not beating on it just hook it over and bend it back. still want to get an acme 422 but with this transmission leak not found as of yet I'm just looking to save and get back on the water.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lakedog55 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-28-2012 at 4:21pm
well, it is only a problem if spectators are around.
On the tranny leak you could get a paper towel and start checking underneath the bell housing, round cooler, shaft tail.
Pete is pretty sharp on his advice so the 10% thing is most likely the way it is supposed to be, I have an older trailer and moved the bow stops back so That I can lift the tongue if needed. Granted I have to take a few breaths and will not be holding it up for very long.
Thanks Mike
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tiger76 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-28-2012 at 3:32pm
So it would only leak while running and under pressure?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote storm34 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-28-2012 at 3:04pm
Originally posted by lakedog55 lakedog55 wrote:

My problem comes from getting off in shallow water


Sorry Mike, that one was just too obvious not to post!

I'd check the trans cooler lines as well. I've seen several split at the cooler and dump fluid into the bilge. If this is the case, you may not see them leaking while running because the fluid has to travel down the line and then the bell housing to get to the bilge.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-28-2012 at 2:30pm
Originally posted by lakedog55 lakedog55 wrote:

Nice boat,
Not sure on your trailer if you can move the front stop back, but if you can that would prevent from driving to far forward.

Before suggesting moving the bow stop back, it's good advice to check the tongue weight first. It should be at least 10% of the trailer GVW.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lakedog55 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-28-2012 at 2:08pm
Nice boat,
Not sure on your trailer if you can move the front stop back, but if you can that would prevent from driving to far forward. My problem comes from getting off in to shallow of water, The boat will pull to one side, If this happens bump it into forward and straighten before it gets over to the side.
Good look Mike
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Morfoot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-28-2012 at 9:26am
Ross, first of all welcome to CCFan, secondly, NICE Boat!

No one adressed your speedo problem so first thing to do is check to make sure the pitots aren't clogged up. That's usually the culprit so I remove the rubber tubing from the top of the pick up (Pitot) use a syringe with rubber tubing filled with water connect it to the pitot and force the obstruction out. If you don't have the means to do this a small fish hook usually works to dig out the trash partially blocking the hole.
Let us know what you find out.
"Morfoot; He can ski. He can wakeboard.He can cook chicken.He can create his own self-named beverage, & can also apparently fly. A man of many talents."72 Mustang "Kermit",88 SN Miss Scarlett, 99 SN "Sherman"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-27-2012 at 10:08pm
One other easy thing to check would be the transmission fluid cooler, which is mounted externally to the transmission. The cooling water intake line runs through it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tiger76 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-27-2012 at 9:14pm
card board is in place and the leak didn't start until this past weekend. this was the second and third time I took the boat out after purchasing it. strange that I don't see it until the next day both times. btw I just checked the fluid level and it's still good so no damage done just a pain in the butt leak to fix I guess.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dreaming Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-27-2012 at 9:01pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

See if you can slide a piece of cardboard under the engine to see where the leak is coming from. Yes, it's trans fluid. The most likely spot it the front seal on the trans and that will leak out of the bell housing.

I agree, however, you also might check the shift lever input.   My gaskets were leaking, and it costs about $4.00 to fix.   One good reason to do some checking, clean everything really well, do the cardboard trick, and maybe even check with the engine running, and a flash light and mirror to see if you can find the leak.   BTW, your bilge looks pretty clean,   this leak has to be pretty new, or you'd see a nice oil slick in there
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tiger76 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-27-2012 at 8:57pm
well that sounds like its gonna cost me some money!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-27-2012 at 8:50pm
See if you can slide a piece of cardboard under the engine to see where the leak is coming from. Yes, it's trans fluid. The most likely spot it the front seal on the trans and that will leak out of the bell housing.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-27-2012 at 8:45pm
I'll let other comment on the tranny leak. Not sure on that one.

On the gauge, you're right should be easy. Just bear in mind, that the old style most likely used a blade connection, and the newer one, might need a ring terminal. But that will be easy to change if it is the case.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tiger76 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-27-2012 at 8:42pm
okay so this is the fuel gauge issue that appears to be an easy repair and then what I think in transmission fluid at the drain which is really scaring me at the moment. I took the boat out saturday and sunday. I noticed a little of the fluid before I went out sunday so I cleaned it up and checked the fluid levels in the tranny before going out. Ran the boat for about 1-1.5 hours and didn't see the fluid when I pulled the drain plug but in was there today on lunch...now I didn't notice the prop damage until this morning but I guess I might have did it saturday when unloading which might be the reason I saw it there sunday when prepping to go out again. Do you think that the little prop ding could be causing the leak or not and why would it only show up after the boat sits over night.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-27-2012 at 6:32pm
Hmmm, pics of what/where you're seeing would help.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tiger76 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-27-2012 at 6:12pm
okay I found that it might be the flange nut washer leaking....and that's located????
Hey I'm an IT Director, but I can learn and love my boat even with the problems.
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