Show me your garage

Well I started this thread 2-1/2 years ago with intentions of documenting my garage building process. Well it didn't work out that way, but after 11 pages of some good discussion and some awesome garages, I guess I'll finally post what I ended up with.

We actually started this garage in April of 2010, and just finished painting last weekend. It's 32'x36' with a 12'x36' room in attic. I ended up going with a W14-22 beam that runs between the two garage doors with (2) 1-ton hoist to accommodate lifting the boats/engines. Lifted the first boat this last weekend for some buffing and trailer work, and it worked out well.   

Craig,
Yes, my drywaller as well as my general convined me a nailer was needed at the W beams otherwise the joint would open up. The drywaller finished the drywall edge off with a I believe what he called a "L" trim.

Your project is look'n fantastic! I love the storage area in the attic space. I wish I had some but with the tall ceilings in the shop. the overall height of the building would have been pretty tall.

Chris,
It wasn't a "J" bead. The "J" bead is U shaped and goes over the edge of the drywall. This stuff went up to the edge and was made to be mudded up to that edge. "J" bead doesn't mud very well.

well done craig. its like you got inside my brain.

Wow that is a nice garage. Will it get a bar upstairs?

My Garage Project

We started the Thursday before Memorial Day 2010.

We currently are having drywall being taped hope to be priming interior end of the month.

966sq ft apartment up top, and 11 foot ceiling downstairs with the 10x10 bay having a 2 ton lift beam across for pulling engines and what have you. 38ft wide 30 deep

C-Bass wrote: it has 1 row of OSB around the sides to prevent all the crap I have laying around up there from falling onto the ceiling below. I plan on building some low budget shelving and keeping it an unfinished space.

Craig,
Just above the 1 row (4') of OSB, run a horizontal 2x4 from the wall stud back to the roof joist and use it for your shelving support. Yes, you will not be able to use the sheving for real long items but for all the small stuff that will fit between the wall studs, it will be a great space saver.

Even more room for the bar!

8122pbrainard wrote: C-Bass wrote: it has 1 row of OSB around the sides to prevent all the crap I have laying around up there from falling onto the ceiling below. I plan on building some low budget shelving and keeping it an unfinished space. Craig, Just above the 1 row (4') of OSB, run a horizontal 2x4 from the wall stud back to the roof joist and use it for your shelving support. Yes, you will not be able to use the sheving for real long items but for all the small stuff that will fit between the wall studs, it will be a great space saver. Even more room for the bar!

Pete, that's a good idea. Never thought of that. I do want to keep an access panel on both sides of the upstairs room so I can get in there for any future electrical/maintenance work.

I just got my utility bill for my up north shop and wanted to comment about what decent insulation does. This winter due to my new job I didn't even get up there over the holidays so it's a good example.

Ref:


Wisconsin public service doesn't send bills until you go over 100 CCF so, for 4 months and keeping the 1500 sq. foot shop at 40 degrees, it cost me $120. In comparison, my little 700 sq, foot house up north also set at 40 degrees has been running around $170 per month!! That's 4 times the cost with half the sq. footage (8 times the cost)!!

I normally drain the house and shut the heat off after New Years but obviously didn't this year!

peter1234 wrote: board and batten walls? radiant heat? i missedd the rest of the build but for a few shots here and there . thats pretty amazing considering just the frost encroachment on the slab no matter how well the rest of the structure is built

Peter,
I too have seen all the snow melted around slabs from heat loss so here's what I did to eliminate the frost encroachment into the shop and the heat loss out. First, the shop was built with a full foundation down below the frost line and not on a slab. At the perimeter the top 8" of the 8" thick foundation wall was thinned down to 4" thick. This allowed the slab perimeter to be insulated on the inside with 2" of iso board and still be covered by the 2x6 walls so no insulation is visible inside or out. This perimeter insulation went under the door sills as well as under the overhead door (1" iso) creating the perimeter insulation and thermal break. Under the OH door, the top of the insulation at the slab was capped with a polyurethane caulk.

Other insulation features:
2x6 walls with regular fiberglass insulation. 3/4" iso insulation sheathing board on the outside. 2" poly board under the slab. Extra 4" insulation heal on the trusses. 2" iso board ventilation chutes at the heal and not the plastic pre made between the trusses - this adds about R20 at the heal where the attic insulation gets thinner. 18" of blown in fiberglass in the attic. High efficiency Triangle tube boiler (with "side arm" tank for the domestic hot water) for the in floor radiant. Regular double pane windows but E glass. 2" thick iso insulated overhead door (R19). 2" OH door overlap at sides and top on wall. The outside is board and batten but with rough sawn Cedar B&B ply and then battens.

In comparison, the house is a converted 3 season. 2x4 walls were added to the outside over the original vertical log siding. A basement was added and the attic was insulated but with only about 6" of glass. This will change soon!!

Wow, that's bigger than most of the houses in my neighborhood!

What type of heat source are you going to use?

Classy looking man cave Paul.

Thanks guys
Still not completely done inside but usable, still have to epoxy the floor, put in some base cabinets, run air lines then hang the last of the drywall. But we're getting there