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Wheel bearings

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    Posted: April-17-2012 at 2:41pm
Bought my boat last year, according to the previous owners records, the last time the wheel bearings were replaced was in 04. I am guessing it's time to replace these. What is the typical cost of doing this job myself, vs having this done elsewhere?

Any help is greatly appreciated.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gun-driver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-17-2012 at 2:51pm
If they're not bad no need to replace them.
Clean'em, grease'em replace the seal drive on.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 86BFN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-17-2012 at 2:51pm
They probably just need repacked. Why do you want to replace them. take the hubs off and inspect them.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote panda Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-17-2012 at 2:57pm
Not replace, repack



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gun-driver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-17-2012 at 3:04pm
The cost for you just to repack them would be just the cost of the seals and some grease.
To have someone do it depends on the labor rate. Is it single axle or tandem axle?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote panda Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-17-2012 at 3:08pm
Single



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gun-driver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-17-2012 at 3:16pm
Piece of cake. Do it yourself
Figure a couple hours labor for someone else to do it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote C-Bass Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-17-2012 at 3:38pm
This would cost you $10-20 and a couple hours to do yourself. And the experience you gain will be priceless if you ever find yourself on the side of the road with a bearing issue that is threatening to ruin a vacation.

There are plenty of guides, I think etrailer.com has one, on how to do this work. Ask here if you have any questions.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote panda Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-17-2012 at 3:54pm
Thanks a lot Craig! Looks like I found my weekend project!



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gun-driver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-17-2012 at 4:09pm
When you do it use (green) waterproof grease.

http://www.etrailer.com/Tools/LubriMatic/L11404.html

Page down "how to video" below grease.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chicomew Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-17-2012 at 4:56pm
that was my first project after picking up my boat too. There are a ton of videos for reference, but it really is easy. Also, if you don't already have bearing buddies, they're well worth it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Foot_Fungus Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-17-2012 at 8:26pm
just did both my trailers last weekend. My personal opinion is that if you're going to pull everything apart anyways why not spend another $10 and put new bearings back in it? To me its just not worth the minimal cost.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-17-2012 at 8:43pm
I really do not know what you guys are talking about! My X55 trailer wheel bearings haven't been touched in 38 years. Bearing buddy's and the grease that gradually leaks through the seals just keeps renewing the lubrication!

The same is true with my other 2 trailers - fill the bearing buddy's before each trip.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-17-2012 at 10:06pm
I would be real hesitant use 10 dollar Chinese bearings in mine.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-17-2012 at 10:27pm
Originally posted by Gary S Gary S wrote:

I would be real hesitant use 10 dollar Chinese bearings in mine.

That's ether $5 per bearing or $2.50 per bearing! Yup, there are some pretty bad bearings out there made in China. You can tell by the price. I was VERY careful with all the bearings I used for my Planer, jointer and shaper rebuild. I did NOT get them at Walmart or Fleet Farm!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote panda Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-17-2012 at 11:31pm
I appreciate all the input fellas. Jic I need new bearings, what is the part number for the bearings? I need to get my trailer ready for my big trip in June! Going to lake gogebic in the up!



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 86BFN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-18-2012 at 12:51am
Once you remove them, they should have numbers on them. Take the old bearings with you to he parts store. Also if you're going to replace the bearings be sure and install new races in the hubs.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MartyMabe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-18-2012 at 1:09am
Do you have an 'OE' trailer? Ramlin? If so, jack it up, spin the wheel. If you don't hear a grinding noise or any kind of looseness in the wheel/hub assembly-- And you have the grease fitting in the center of your axle. Shoot this full of grease with a grease gun and it pushes all the old grease back out and this repacks your bearings full of new grease.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-18-2012 at 10:42am
I used Timken bearings, with new races & seals. It ran me $100 (@bearing store). To me it was worth it to have known top quality bearings. You can get chinese stuff for about 1/2 that price on line.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote malibud Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-18-2012 at 12:49pm
Just be sure and keep and extra set in the truck for just in case. I have a new hub with grease and bearings ready to go. Might want to use your old set for that .
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gun-driver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-18-2012 at 1:16pm
If your trailer is the OEM I have the bearing and seal numbers. I can get them when I get home.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gun-driver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-18-2012 at 1:18pm
If your trailer is the OE, I have the bearing and seal numbers. I can get them when I get home.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MartyMabe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-18-2012 at 2:01pm
My 93 Ramlin- OE CC trailer--

LM 67048 outer bearing 1.25"
LM 67010 race

     25580 inner bearing 1.75"
     25520 race

    413470 grease seal    2.125"

Kit   This kit's seal is 2 1/8" ID

Kit This kit's seal is 2 1/4" ID

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote panda Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-18-2012 at 2:25pm
I'm gonna repack em and grease em this weekend, but I really like the idea of keeping an extra in the truck. Great idea!

My trailer is a 97 oe ramlin trailer; funny my boat is a 95, but my trailer is a 97. Last Year I put about 1400 miles on the trailer, so figured its time to do something with em



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Foot_Fungus Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-18-2012 at 2:39pm
$10 was per wheel so 5 a bearing. Didn't include the seal since he was already doing that. Bought nationals last week for 27 for all 4, so I was off a tad on my quote. My point was it's a cheap part why not just replace it. I agree though stay away from cheap bearings. National or timken are the only 2 brands I'd trust. Auto zone has nationals but they overcharge in my opinion. Northern tool has repackaged nationals.   No need to do the races unless they aren't smooth as that's a lot more work

Panda your trailer should use the parts Marty listed with the 2.125 seal. Mine is the 96 version of yours. Let me know if you can't get the seal as I have an alternative part # auto parts stores can cross. Double lip seal is preferred but a single lip works just fine. Etrailer.com is about the cheapest if u have the time to wait for shipping.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote crobi2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-18-2012 at 4:25pm
Every time I've taken the hubs apart to repack the bearings, I always forget to write down the numbers so I can get spare bearings to keep in the car for long trips.

If you have a bearing failure and don't completely ruin the spindle, you can replace races and bearings with a chisel and other hand tools. (Beats the heck out of being stranded on the highway on a weekend with no help in sight).

I've always kept them lubed well and haven't had a failure in 14 years of towing.

EDIT: I hope I didn't just ruin my luck!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Foot_Fungus Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-18-2012 at 9:36pm
I've actually been toying with the idea of mounting a spindle to the trailer to act as a hub/tire carrier. That way if I do have a failure I can just pull the old hub off slide the new one on and be back on the road in 15 minutes tops regardless if its just a bearing or a race failure. And have the added benefit of having a spare nut and cotter pin PLUS a spare tire.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote crobi2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-19-2012 at 12:46pm
Originally posted by Foot_Fungus Foot_Fungus wrote:

I've actually been toying with the idea of mounting a spindle to the trailer to act as a hub/tire carrier. That way if I do have a failure I can just pull the old hub off slide the new one on and be back on the road in 15 minutes tops regardless if its just a bearing or a race failure. And have the added benefit of having a spare nut and cotter pin PLUS a spare tire.


You know, I really like that idea.

If you just need a spare tire, you take off the lug nuts. If you fail a bearing and destroy the race, you have a hub ready to pop on. If you damage the spindle - all you have to do is find someone with a torch to cut off the old spindle and a welder to put on the new one - a lot easier to do on a weekend than also having to also find a spindle that matches your trailer.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MartyMabe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-19-2012 at 1:11pm
The Extra "Hub" idea has already been done by the Master himself--Donald80SN

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote crobi2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-19-2012 at 2:03pm
That's nice.

I'd like to see what's on the other side of that locking cable that goes through the stud hole.

Sweet setup.
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