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Did you have a heat problem before the maintenance? Impeller right direction?

Where all the impeller blades accounted for? Any missing? Where the blades installed in the same direction it which they came out? The real experts will likely chime in @ 4-5 a.m EST. They can likely elaborate more and give you some expert advice.

there may be blades of past failed impellers impeding flow...

waker319 wrote: Where would you think the blockage could be at?

Possibly in the motor. What kind of water was previous owner boating in? Check all connections as well. Tighten all with a nut driver, not a screw driver. Again, hang tight help is on the way.

How about your water strainer, gasket in place?

Im trying to understand your symptoms better. Can you please correct the following statements?

1. It runs 160 on the hose without a thermostat.

2. It runs 200 on the hose with both the new and old thermostat.

If thats the case, then clearly the problem is not thermostat related. The engine should be struggling to break 100 degrees without a stat.

Have you had the boat on the lake to see how it runs? Have you tried revving the engine to see if the temps come down? With no load on the trailer, it should be artificially easy for the engine to maintain temperature... so something is wrong. Without knowing how it acts on the water though, its a little tough to pinpoint. It would probably have to be a pretty major air leak combined with insufficient water flow for that to be the problem. I would lean towards a blockage in the system or a RWP needing a rebuild.

If you have already inspected for blockages and come up empty, I would start by testing the RWP. Dump the fake a lake and make the pump pull from a bucket instead of forcing water up to it. If it struggles to pump water, youve found your culprit.

1. You have an air leak.

2. You might have put the pump on backwards and the hose is pushing enough water to keep it around 195.

Put a hose from the RWP into a bucket full of water (with the hose filling it) and see what happens. If it puts out bubbles you have the pump backwards. If it cools it you have a leak between the RWP and the inlet.

TRBenj wrote: watrski wrote: 1. You have an air leak. If these symptoms were on the lake, then I would agree. But I run on the trailer with a gross air leak (I do not shut off the intake grate path on my tee'd water input) and never run above 160. The fact that he runs 160 with no stat is indicative of a water flow problem. I think the the RWP test is a good place to start.

TB-

You might be correct, but you are assuming that he has the water turned up full pressure.

TRBenj wrote: Still, it shouldnt take a ton of water to keep the engine cool at idle, in neutral.

Not much at all. A gal. of gas contains 114,000 BTU's. At idle, it takes quite a long time to burn 1 gal. Removing 1 BTU, one pound of water will only increase in temp 1 degree and we all know the cooling water gets hotter than a delta T of one degree.

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[QUOTE=waker319]
(( the first picture is something i saw after the strainer (in order as in coming in from hull intake) it looks like a filter but theres hoses coming out to engine block and tranny... i checked for blockage but it was clear... ))

That is your transmission cooler. You did check the bottom for blockage?

And you're really sure you didn't somehow rotate the whole pump body around by accident. AKA, which way is your impeller set screw facing?

Check out these directions, they make it pretty easy:
http://aquaskier.com/articles/impeller_replacement.htm

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waker319 wrote: ... i strongly believe it must be something with the impeller cuz i never had a problem before... this just happened after i replaced it... can someone confirm if i had replaced it correctly?

Just for laughs, see if you can confirm that your impeller pulley is definitely turning the shaft. I thought I read something on her about a key coming out of the keyway, and then the shaft wouldn't turn the impeller.

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