vibrations

Trey,
When you put ether the old straightened shaft or the ARE shaft in, you'll need to do an alignment. Remember alignment starts at the trut. Pay real close attention to it as it may be bent - shafts don't bend by themselves so I wonder if the strut took a hit too.

As long as the shaft is out, you might as well put a new cutlas bearing in plus it's bad anyway.

Packing in the stuffing box is optional but if you do go with the ARE, I'd repack it with the Gortex. That of course needs to be done after the shaft is installed.

JB,
Struts can be straightened. Some here have done it themselves with the aid of a press and others have sent them out. Many prop shops will do it since they know how to deal with the brass.

When the time comes to put it all back together, you may find the alignment video in the forums "new" section (about 3/4s the way down the page) helpful.

Thanks Peter... I plan on straightening the strut myself with my press. Going to get the prop fixed in Hot Springs. Do you think all this should be fixed before sale?

ThatNautiqueGuy wrote: Do you think all this should be fixed before sale?

JB,
If you are planning on selling the boat, fix the problem. Anyone looking at it and most likely wanting a water test, will want a BIG $$$$ discount in it's present condition. I'm sure way beyond what you put into it with the repair.

CorrectCraftParts...1-318-299-8547... Karen

Sweet! Thanks guys!

teelta wrote: Could the bad cutlass bearing and bad prop cause the bent shaft?

No

teelta wrote: Putting the RUDDER back in do I need to tighten the packing nut or leave it alone?

Yes, adjust the packing gland on the rudder port.

Pete, got it! Thanks so much for your help!!!!

Trey,
Some will be taken up when it's pressed into the strut but, get the micrometer out (or vernier calipers) and measure the prop shaft where the cutlass rides.

Trey,
It's typical for shafting to run a thousands or two over in diameter. Your's may be worn slightly. Get the new shaft and measure it when you get it. It should run fairly close to the new cutlass bearing. Report back. I suggest the ARE shaft system. They are about the same cost and they sure are easy to R&R. Give Billy or Karen a call for the ARE. 318 386 2825

Don't worry about the 5200 bedding under the strut. It's not thick enough to make a difference in the shaft alignment to the log.

Yes, whenever you change out a prop or shaft, I suggest lapping. In fact, I even like to lap even if the prop has been on the same shaft before. You never know if the prop rebuild force changed it's tapered bore slightly. Many of the prop shops will run a tapered reamer in the bore after they pound on the prop but not all will. Even so, lap.

I might have installed the wrong cutlass bearing! The one I pulled out was 6". The one I got based on other posts was the BACK model from Deep Blue which is only 4". It does not even reach the 2nd retaining screw in the strut. Of course, I didn't realize the difference until I pressed the bearing into the strut!!! Did I get the wrong one for my strut?

Here is a pic of the cracks in the gelcoat (the dark lines outside the recess). I didn't see any on top in the fiberglass but it is pretty dirty - will need to clean.

8122pbrainard wrote: Trey, Clean up the inside of the bilge and check for cracking there. The 4" will work.

Do I push it in more to catch both retaining screws or just use the one? Does it supposed to have the 6" in there?

That makes sense! No engineering background but do know something about restoration...


Just new to boat restoration!    

Thanks for the help and for the lessons!

OK cleaned up the bilge area. Saw some tiny hairline cracks that seem surface level to me. Do you concur?

Just replaced my shaft and coupling and put a new prop on. The coupling on mine was causing a vibration noise at slow idle sounded like the tranny was chattering. Realigned everything it’s like a new boat no vibration at all. Your prop definitely needs repaired. So while you got it all apart I would replace the coupler and shaft (ARE SHAFT) if you don’t want to take a chance to straighten the old one. Was well worth the time and effort. I’m going to see if I can straighten the old shaft. A guy I know can straighten axle shafts, just seeing if it can be done