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Bent Rudder. Repair?

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    Posted: August-25-2012 at 4:34pm
I damaged my boat last week and the rudder looks to be bent. Can they be repaired like a prop? It is an 83 skin nautique. Thanks.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-25-2012 at 4:45pm
Yes, it can be straightened. Someone will post a recommended shop soon.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dwouncmd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-26-2012 at 1:37am
Originally posted by nautique frk nautique frk wrote:

Contact Murphy's Propeller service 757-853-4731 or www.murphyspropellers.com
They have fixed a rudder and strut for me in the past, send your stuff up to them in Virginia and it will be good as new.


I haven't yet gotten mine out to see if it bent, plan to do it tomorrow.
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Thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nautique frk Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-28-2012 at 3:09pm
Murphy's is a top notch shop that can help you out Give Mark at Murphy's he can help !
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Morfoot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-28-2012 at 4:20pm
Ben, the folks at site sponser Delta Prop can do it. They straightened out a bent rudder shaft for me a few years ago. Give them a holla and tell em' what you got and that you are one of us and you'll get a discount too. Give back to those who help support the site.
"Morfoot; He can ski. He can wakeboard.He can cook chicken.He can create his own self-named beverage, & can also apparently fly. A man of many talents."72 Mustang "Kermit",88 SN Miss Scarlett, 99 SN "Sherman"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dwouncmd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-28-2012 at 4:25pm
With my wife's help (she looks mighty cute with greasy hands ) I got my rudder out last night (had to jack the boat up to get it past the welded prop guard, not fun). I can't really tell if it is bent. I don't know how to reference the rudder to the shaft.   I know it was hard to turn, so I am begging to wonder if the rudder log (the through hull fitting, proper terminology?) is the problem. With the rudder out, the wheels turns easily in both directions.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-28-2012 at 10:40pm
Originally posted by dwouncmd dwouncmd wrote:

I can't really tell if it is bent.

The shaft needs to be set up in a set of V blocks and then check it with the dial indicator.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-29-2012 at 1:15am
Just use a flat reference surface (like a kitchen counter) to look for symmetry. You might have to cut some wood blocks to get it to lie steady on it's side.

Then flip it & see if the shaft has the same height to the counter. It probably is bent at the transition to the blade if it is at all.

You could use a straight edge & feeler gages (or flashlight)to see if the shaft itself has bow in it.   It would have to be pretty bent to be a problem, since there is generous clearance in the rudder port. I would think this amount of damage would be easy to spot.   

I bet Pete was thinking about a prop shaft in his reply above, which has to be straight within .003 inch.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-29-2012 at 9:08am
Originally posted by SNobsessed SNobsessed wrote:

I bet Pete was thinking about a prop shaft in his reply above, which has to be straight within .003 inch.

Chris,
I really was thinking rudder shaft but just went to the extreme! Your "kitchen counter" method will work as well but it's just not as accurate. The straight edge and feeler gauge would be better.

I've never measured the clearance in a rudder port but if I had to guess, I'd say it's around .005". That a lot of clearance in a bore. So, if the rudder shaft is bent beyond that, I'd say it would bind in the port.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dwouncmd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-29-2012 at 10:55am
Thanks. After watching the alignment video, I have been looking at dial indicators, trying to find something decent but not wanting to spend like a professional machinist. Once I get one, I will check it out.

I tried a granite top counter, a metal square, and a flashlight, but I can't convince myself that it is or isn't bent. I think it probably is bent where the rudder meets the shaft, and straight backwards. With the curve of the rudder falling away from the shaft, I can't figure out what to use as a reference.

To check for a bend where the shaft and rudder meet with a dial indicator, wouldn't the rudder have to be set up to rotate with the dial indicator fixed relative to the rotation (like checking for bend in the prop shaft at the strut)?   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-29-2012 at 11:02am
Can you put it back up in the port & manually determine where it is binding?

Edit - I looked at my boat & there is a machined shoulder at the transition. I think that could be gaged with a square.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-29-2012 at 9:45pm
Wayne,
Harbor Freight has a dial indicator for a very reasonable price. It comes with a articulated arm and has a vice grip clamp. The clamp is ideal for clamping to the strut. I'm sure it's not the best but for checking shafts to within .001" I'm sure it's fine.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cphase Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-29-2012 at 9:51pm
Ben, welocome to the site. Let me know if you need some help.
Thanks,

Jeff
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dwouncmd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-29-2012 at 9:56pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Wayne,
Harbor Freight has a dial indicator for a very reasonable price. It comes with a articulated arm and has a vice grip clamp. The clamp is ideal for clamping to the strut. I'm sure it's not the best but for checking shafts to within .001" I'm sure it's fine.


Thanks Pete, I will take a look. I will let you know how well it works out for the rudder.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ben.b Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-15-2012 at 3:08pm
I sent the rudder to Delta and got it back this week. I went to install this a.m. and head to the lake but it will not go into the housing all of the way without binding. Once it drops about 1/2 inch it spins easily but I am pretty sure that is not right. I am now wondering if it was straightened correctly or if the rudder housing is bent as well. Rudder shaft still does not look right and the rudder itself still looks bent but I am no expert. Any thoughts?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-15-2012 at 3:13pm
Originally posted by ben.b ben.b wrote:

I sent the rudder to Delta and got it back this week. I went to install this a.m. and head to the lake but it will not go into the housing all of the way without binding. Once it drops about 1/2 inch it spins easily but I am pretty sure that is not right. I am now wondering if it was straightened correctly or if the rudder housing is bent as well. Rudder shaft still does not look right and the rudder itself still looks bent but I am no expert. Any thoughts?

Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by dwouncmd dwouncmd wrote:

I can't really tell if it is bent.

The shaft needs to be set up in a set of V blocks and then check it with the dial indicator.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dwouncmd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-16-2012 at 1:55am
I bought the dial indicator at Harbor Freight, but still haven't figured how to set it up to check for true...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-16-2012 at 8:13am
Originally posted by dwouncmd dwouncmd wrote:

I bought the dial indicator at Harbor Freight, but still haven't figured how to set it up to check for true...

Wayne,
Ideally, you would have a set of V blocks to roll the shaft section of the rudder in. Then the dial indicator is used to measure several spots on the shaft. A bend will show up as high and low readings. If the V blocks aren't available, a very flat surface is needed. This could be the machined surface of a machine tool or as mentioned, even a granite counter top without a radius edge = you want the shaft on the flat surface as close to the rudder blade section as possible. As the shaft section is rolled on this surface, again a high and low reading will show up on the dial indicator.

It would be a good idea to actually measure the shaft OD and the port ID. Then, you can determine just how much bend can be tolerated.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-16-2012 at 10:41am
Originally posted by ben.b ben.b wrote:

I am now wondering . . . if the rudder housing is bent as well.


I think this is a strong possibility since the impact force had to get absorbed somewhere. If you can find or make a square with a long thin blade, this could be easily checked. The tube should be square with the hull flange, within the rudder OD / port ID clearance.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-16-2012 at 12:58pm
Wayne,
Yes, Chris touched on the rudder port that I did not. Yes, it too may have taken the hit as well but, before you go to the trouble of pulling it, I have a suggestion. Take some lapping compound to it to see if you can work out the high spots. Use the rudder shaft to do the actual lapping of it's shaft and the rudder port. Get a generous amount of the compound in the port and on the rudder shaft. Then, work the rudder back and forth to see what happens. The "grind" marks on the shaft from the compound will tell lots!!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dwouncmd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-17-2012 at 12:58am
Thanks again for the advice.

It just so happens I have a spare rudder port, so I set it up with the shaft rotating in the port and the dial indicator clamped to the port, which was a little fussy, but I got it to work.

So, it sounds like Ben and I now have the same problem. The shaft seems bent as it mates with the rudder.   According to the dial indicator the bend in the shaft starts about 1/2" from the rudder and the shaft appears to be bent mostly aft, but also to one side slightly. At its worst, closest to the rudder, the shaft deflects .040". Interestingly, there are some wear marks further up the shaft, and I think it is about .010" out of true, but does not bind in the port. As the shaft is inserted deeper into the port, the binding begins, about 1/4" from the rudder. I can recreate the same binding I felt at the helm when the rudder was still in the port that is still in the boat, with rudder binding sooner turning to port. If I try to insert the shaft all the way into the port, abutting the rudder, it is completely frozen.

With the binding going away with a little shaft showing, I wondered if it would be possible to adjust the port to have the rudder that extra 1/4" or so out of the port.

If having an extra 1/4 inch of shaft showing is a bad idea, to have the shaft successfully straightened, would it help to send the port and rudder together?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-17-2012 at 6:49am
Originally posted by dwouncmd dwouncmd wrote:

With the binding going away with a little shaft showing, I wondered if it would be possible to adjust the port to have the rudder that extra 1/4" or so out of the port.

I don't feel dropping the rudder 1/4" would be a problem. Just adjust the height of the spacer{s} between the packing nut and the tiller arm. The idea actually crossed my mind way back when it was mentioned that the binding was when the rudder was inserted all the way into the port.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dip Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-17-2012 at 6:32pm
I had a slight bend in mine earlier this year. At speeds above 25 mph the rear end would walk side to side a bit. I think it had to do with pressure building up on one side then releasing, happening over and over. It didn't seem too bad from the driver's seat but my wife said it was terrible from the rear seat. When I first reinstalled the repaired rudder I over-tightened the packing nut so I had too much friction on the bearing. I dropped it 1/16-1/8" and it operates almost too smoothly now.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-17-2012 at 7:04pm
Originally posted by dip dip wrote:

I had a slight bend in mine earlier this year. At speeds above 25 mph the rear end would walk side to side a bit. I think it had to do with pressure building up on one side then releasing, happening over and over. It didn't seem too bad from the driver's seat but my wife said it was terrible from the rear seat. When I first reinstalled the repaired rudder I over-tightened the packing nut so I had too much friction on the bearing. I dropped it 1/16-1/8" and it operates almost too smoothly now.

The aft end "wiggle" is typical on a non pre loaded rudder.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-17-2012 at 9:58pm
I still like the idea of getting some lapping compound in the assembly and seeing what it will do!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ben.b Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-22-2012 at 4:39am
Thanks for the idea Pete. I had already purchased some compound to lap my new prop with and used some of it to try your idea. It worked like a champ in both regards. It showed me that the shaft was bowed a little and it also took out the binding after several minutes of working the rudder back and forth with the compound. Cleaned it all up, greased the shaft and put it back together. Steers easily! Took it for a spin today. And WOW is that new ACME prop smooth. I was amazed. Thanks again for the help.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-22-2012 at 8:42am
Ben,
It's great to hear that the rudder problem is fixed. Now, get out there on the water!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dwouncmd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-22-2012 at 9:44am
Originally posted by ben.b ben.b wrote:

Thanks for the idea Pete. I had already purchased some compound to lap my new prop with and used some of it to try your idea. It worked like a champ in both regards. It showed me that the shaft was bowed a little and it also took out the binding after several minutes of working the rudder back and forth with the compound. Cleaned it all up, greased the shaft and put it back together. Steers easily! Took it for a spin today. And WOW is that new ACME prop smooth. I was amazed. Thanks again for the help.


Good to hear. When I put everything back together, I will try the lapping compound on the rudder. I bet it will fix the problem, hopefully without altering the steering preload, though if it dose not I will try dropping the rudder just a little.

I got my Acme prop back from Delta this week. Next project while all of this is out is pulling the transmission for a rebuild (leaking, and as far as I know original to 89 with over 1200 hours) and more than likely a double taper shaft.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dwouncmd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-26-2012 at 11:28pm
I got off early from work today, so I had time to get the transmission out. Now it just needs to be boxed up and sent to Fantastic Finish Marine for a rebuild. While everything is in pieces, I think I am going to bite the bullet and switch to a double taper shaft...
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