winterizing your nautique

AAM196 wrote: 2)I ran engine off hose till up to temp.

You don't have to do this.

What kind of engine in your 99Air? GT-40? when you say wat size are you asking for wrench size or thread size to replace? I used big cresent wrench as I didn't have a big enough open end with me.

Hollywood:
yeah... I wasn't sure if I had to open thermostat or not since I wasn't going to change oil but I really want to run for two reasons:
1) I just did a muffler repair... the front section baffle supports to top and buttom of muffler were loose and rattled... I used some JB weld marine epoxy to repair w/o having to cut open and wanted to hear it... It seems to have worked fingers crossed!
2)since I doubled the amount of sta-bil in fuel, I wanted to make sure it made it through lines and injectors.

Really my boats are always in semi-heated garages anyway...

Thank you! The pictures really cleared this up for me.

Stupid question, im sure covered numerous times before..
If I pull all drain plugs disconnect trans cooler pipe and remove the rwp impellor - do I still need to bother with anti freeze??

Graham,
I agree with Gary that the drain only has been used for years and is still used by many - even marinas! I too did the same for many years. The anti is, as Gary says, just cheap insurance. I store my boats in northern Wisconsin where it can get down to -30F so, I now do add about a gal of anti to each engine (the 4 will only take a bout 1/2 gal,!!)

Thanks folks, on that basis I don't think I'll bother with the antifreeze it doesn't get ridiculously cold over these parts

With a freshwater motor I would not worry about corrosion,just think of all the saltwater boats out there,you never get that out and the engines last a long time

Ok guy’s after reading every conceivable way to winterize (and trying several) I thought I’d share how I do mine which I find the easiest for me at least since my ’95 has a shower, heater and drip less shaft.
First I start with 8 gal antifreeze (before someone squawks about the amount, you will end up with around 3 gal reclaimed + it only costs 3 bucks a gallon which is peanuts compared to the other costs of owning a boat)
First remove plug in port side block to drain block (this is to help keep the A/F from being watered down) While the block is draining do the following.
1)     Remove platform
2)      Remove exhaust flapper
3)     Insert 4”schedule 40 pipe with several wraps of duct tape( to acquire a snug fit in exhaust port) and elbow in exhaust
4)     Pour 3 gallon A/F in bucket below exhaust
5)     Disconnect strainer and attach 10’ - 1” pool hose
6)     Pour about a gallon in the pool hose while holding above the motor height. Pour another three gallon A/F into the second bucket in the boat. Put weighted end of pool hose in bucket
7)     Reinstall port block plug, - Take a drink of beer
8)     Start boat, take bucket from in boat to the exhaust, and put hose in exhaust bucket pour remaining A/F into exhaust bucket.
9)     While outside of boat check drip less is running A/F out, then clamp drip less line.
10)     Watch temp - Drink more beer
11)     As temp raises run shower till A/F is seen then shut off – drink more beer
12)     Once temp approaches operating temp run heater check for heat yes = good circulation of A/F through core – drink more beer
13)     Run at operating temp a while you finish your beer
14)     Turn off motor, start oil draining – drink another beer or two while oil drains
15)     when drained add new oil and filter
16)     start motor run fresh oil through motor
17)     turn off motor
18)     unclamp drip less line, disconnect pool hose empty strainer and reconnect
19)     remove impeller, loosen belts

Done …time to drink more beer

Yea it looks like a long list but it doesn't even take an hour depending on how long you wait on the oil to drain.
Plus I have all the pipe ready from the year before. The explaination on the pipe was for anyone doing it for the first time.
I don’t drain the starboard side block because my shower is plumbed to that.
What I did mix up is that when I get out of the boat that is when I slide the exhaust bucket under the pipe by then it has chugged out most of the water and is starting to dump out mostly the A/F.

Zach I feel it's a good way to make sure the A/F gets through all the systems, warms the oil and takes almost no tools at all.
Like I said above it looks like a long list but you actually spend more time drinking beer and watching it run than wrenching.

I'm starting to like JBears method better all the time

storm34 wrote: gun-driver wrote: 14)     Turn off motor, start oil draining – drink another beer or two while oil drains 15)     when drained add new oil and filter 15.5) Forgot to put the plug back in the oil drain....clean shop floor

Damn

Paul, if you simply run the shower pump that will essentially drain the port side of the block and also any water upstream from where the cold side of the shower connects, I usually get a 1/2 gallon or more out this way. Following you theme it also does not require any tools.

I will usually see at least another Gallon via the heater, jtube and manifolds. Like your method, the only thing I would do different is drain all the points, plus that should get you another beer!!

[QUOTE=Randy_in_Ohio]
I've been doing the pour-in method since our old friend Eric replaced my manifolds with new ones I was able to remove the drain plugs from. QUOTE]

My method would probably be better for you Randy as it doesn't require the use of any tools other than a nutdriver.