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Painting exhaust risers |
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gR@HaM 
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Joined: May-01-2012 Location: UK Status: Offline Points: 1265 |
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 Topic: Painting exhaust risersPosted: January-27-2013 at 9:07am |
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Next week I'm looking to gritblast and coat my risers (am able to spray them up in work using corrosion resistant coating and cure in a box oven.
What's the maximum operating temperature of the risers? I want to make sure I use a coating capable of tolerating this without burning off.. Thanks 
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'82 Ski Tique
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8122pbrainard
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Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Posted: January-27-2013 at 9:21am |
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Graham,
You should be able to keep your hand on a properly cooled riser so, that's about 120 degrees F. The same for the exhaust manifolds with the exception of the areas around the cylinder exhaust ports. They aren't water jacketed and get pretty hot. |
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gR@HaM
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Posted: January-27-2013 at 9:43am |
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Thanks Pete. For the engine block, heads and transmission I was assuming I would need to use brush on high temperature paint (the stuff suitable for brake calipers, exhausts etc) or do you think that would be overkill?
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'82 Ski Tique
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TX Foilhead
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Joined: February-01-2009 Location: Kingsland TX Status: Offline Points: 2076 |
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Posted: January-27-2013 at 10:38am |
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I'm planning on doing mine too, I haven't seen them get warmer than the water temp when I've been checking thing with the IR thermometer so no special paint. My thought was to turn them upside down and paint the bottom with a black high temp paint then do the rest with same paint I use on the motor, haven't decided on my colors yet, but leaning twords the silver that was on it before with a few Ford Blue highlights.
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8122pbrainard
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Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Posted: January-27-2013 at 10:42am |
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Graham,
I'd just go with a engine paint. It's made for the purpose. I also recommend using an engine paint primer. Over here, I have had great results with Dupli-Color aerosol rattle cans. I know others have gotten pretty fancy with using automotive finishes on their engines - even with two part finishes!! |
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gR@HaM
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Posted: January-27-2013 at 12:11pm |
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Ok thanks guys, just means I'll have to buy 2 lots of high temperature/engine paint - black for the exhaust risers (instead of using black epoxy I already have in) and grey for the engine. Ah well!
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'82 Ski Tique
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TX Foilhead
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Posted: January-27-2013 at 1:04pm |
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I don't know what you have access to over there, but I would go with a cheap rattle can paint for the hot spots under the manifold since nobody but you will ever see them. The brake caliper paint may work, most of the high temp paint I see here is good for 1500 F / 815 C. I just don't want the smell of burning paint and or to have to have to find the bolts under the rust again. Now that my motor is out it looks like PCM painted it as an after thought, lots of spots that were missed or just have a thin coat.
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MartyMabe
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Joined: February-21-2006 Location: High Point,NC Status: Offline Points: 3991 |
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Posted: January-27-2013 at 3:18pm |
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Cheapest rattle can silver engine paint for me, with a dusting on the motor. Sprayed some in the cap and used a small paintbrush for the intricate areas. Got 1/2 pint of POR 15 for the exhaust manifolds and risers----- even had enough for the muffler!
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Donald80SN
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Joined: January-12-2009 Location: Denver, NC Status: Offline Points: 3896 |
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Posted: January-27-2013 at 4:57pm |
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Marty,
Stop showing off !!!!!!!!!!  Now close that Dog House. Donald |
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jbach
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Joined: September-24-2012 Location: Kentucky Status: Offline Points: 140 |
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Posted: January-27-2013 at 11:08pm |
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that por15 is awesome stuff. my understanding was that it actually needs a somewhat coroded surface to bond to. is that not true marty?
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bhectus
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Joined: July-04-2010 Location: Gator Country! Status: Offline Points: 1809 |
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Posted: January-29-2013 at 1:59pm |
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Not necessarily corroded. You'll want to wire-wheel it, but if there is some rust or what-not, it will be fine to coat over top of it. It stops rust in its tracks. The wire wheel just smooths everything out so you have a more presentable surface to paint it on. What is under it will show through. The POR-15 can be brushed on with excellent results. It is self-leveling so its pretty easy to work with. No concern in an engine bay being exposed to UV for any amount of time so you won't need to top-coat it with anything either.
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'02 Ski Nautique 196 w/ 5.7 Apex bowtie - Sold
'87 Barefoot - sold '97 Super Sport Nautique - originally custom built for Walt Meloon '97 Ski Nautique '83 SN 2001 |
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Waternut
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Joined: July-11-2012 Location: Macon, GA Status: Offline Points: 292 |
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Posted: January-29-2013 at 6:57pm |
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Maybe up north you guys can keep your hands comfortably on the risers but down here in the south when the air temp is 100 and the water temp is 90, you can touch the risers without really burning yourself but it's not something I want to do.
That said, I sanded my risers with a dual action sander to clean them up and remove some of the ugly casting marks. Then I just sprayed them with the engine enamel from Advance Auto. It's been about 1.5 years and 250+ hours on the engine since and they still look beautiful. So good that when I removed them to rebuild the engine, I didn't bother to do anything else to them. Additionally, I had my engine temp hit 210° twice due to an impeller failure. I splashed water on the risers and watched it boil on contact but the paint held up great. |
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Gary S
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Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
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Posted: January-29-2013 at 11:31pm |
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Ours get just as hot you wuss
 It's just that our hands are frozen and it takes that much longer to feel the heat 
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