Stringer Replacement Decisions

iplan wrote: I think I'm going to try and get it done by myself. Anyone got a shopping list for required "tools?"

I would start with a good set of basic mechanic's hand tools . From there, a decent circular saw, cordless drill (Dewalt is very good), ball peen hammer, claw hammer, and a couple different sized pry bars: one about 12 inches and another about 4 feet.

I am personally fond of air driven power tools! I like a good air drill, straight die grinder (which you can put cutoff wheels in), right angle die grinder, 1/2 inch drive impact wrench, 3/8 drive air ratchet, and a good quality DA (Random Orbital) sander. If you can find a good straight sander (18 inch is good), it would not be a waste.

The one thing you don't want to skimp on is a good pair of torque wrenches. I prefer the clicker type, but beam type are good, too. It depends on what you are using them for. I would invest in a 1/4 inch drive and a 1/2 drive. The most important thing about any precision tool is to keep it calibrated. A torque wrench is no good if it isn't accurate.

Harbor Freight Tools Harbor Freight Toolsare okay, but be careful. Some of their tools are Chinese made junk and not worth what little you spend on them. I would never buy any precision tools (torque wrenches, calipers, micrometers, etc.) from Harbor Freight.

It is a decent place, however, to "Window Shop".

Tonali_III wrote: Harbor Freight Tools Harbor Freight Toolsare okay, but be careful. Some of their tools are Chinese made junk and not worth what little you spend on them.

Tony,
Didn't you mean to say that all Harbor Freight stuff is Chinese junk? Honestly, I have never seen anything worth buying from them.

8122pbrainard wrote: Tonali_III wrote: Harbor Freight Tools Harbor Freight Toolsare okay, but be careful. Some of their tools are Chinese made junk and not worth what little you spend on them. Tony, Didn't you mean to say that all Harbor Freight stuff is Chinese junk? Honestly, I have never seen anything worth buying from them.

Well, a few are okay like engine stands or may be a drift, or punch. But yeah, they're mostly junk. Definitely not up there with "Craftman" even.

Assuming you have all the tools to remove the engine and running gear - the 4" grinder is the workhorse tool for this job. Cut the floor out with a diamond blade - cut the stringers out with the same blade - grind/sand down the floor to accept the new stringers with the flapper sanding discs for the grinder. I was able to 'trace' my stringers as they were in pretty good shape with a router and straight bit. Planed the stringers with mostly a hand plane. I bought a bunch of other 'project tools' like a sawzall, ascillating tool for sanding in corners (barely effective), power plane, but the grinders (I burned one cheap one out) has been key. Used a few clamps and such as well when installing stuff so far. May need a sander as the foam goes in (haven't got there yet) - if you buy them as you need them and don't think too much about it - doesn't hurt as much.

I have read many of the floor/stringer replacement threads because my 86 is going to need it sometime soon but one thing keeps coming to mind. This sounds like it could be a nice little side business for someone on this site who has the knowledge and the time. Seems like someone could make a few bucks here for those of us who dont realy have the space or time to do it ourselves and have no idea who to turn to otherwise.

Nelson wrote: I have read many of the floor/stringer replacement threads because my 86 is going to need it sometime soon but one thing keeps coming to mind. This sounds like it could be a nice little side business for someone on this site who has the knowledge and the time. Seems like someone could make a few bucks here for those of us who dont realy have the space or time to do it ourselves and have no idea who to turn to otherwise.

SNobsessed wrote: IMO, the materials alone can turn the ownership value of an old boat upside down, leaving no room for profit.

Nelson,
The same is true for wood boat restoration. Would you be willing to pay around $60 per hour for labor?

Ya. Your right. Guess I was thinking of the person who might be in it because they enjoy working on boats and not for the money. I think I am going to make due with mine the way it is for this season and maybe buy a newer one next year. We will see...