stalling at idle

your idle circuit may have some gunk in it. I would remove the idle screws and with rags over and below them crank the engine a few times. You can do it one side at a time. Be careful you will be spitting gas out the holes. after that I would replace the screws and retune them either by ear or with a vacumn guage. Your idle should be between 650 and 850 and when in gear above 550.I like to run mine at 600+ in gear.

If this is a Holley 4 barrel the speed screw is on the linkage and it controls the base idle speed. On each side of the front float chamber there will be 2 identical silver screws these are the idle mixture screws. what you want to do is to close one of these at a time until the RPMs start to drop then open it 1/4 turn. Do the other side and repeat until smooth. At this time if the idle is high or low adjust it to 700 rpm using the speed screw.Now repeat the whole thing until you idle smoothly at 650-800 RPMs in neutral and about 550-660 in gear. You might want to find an old guy who has done it before. Anybody over 45 remembers what a carb looks like.

jimmyhank also check your intake manifold bolts are torqued to specs.

The symptom is also indicative of a stuck or non sealing needle valve. This causes the engine to flood at idle and die. Rebuilding the carb is the only fix. Do you have to give it throttle to restart and does black smoke come out of the exhaust on start-up. If so, you have this problem.

You can try tapping on the top of the fuel bowl near the fuel inlet to see if the flooding stops. Sometimes the tapping dislodges the dirt and lets the needle valve seat properly.

im probably gonna get flamed again by those two queers. but here goes. get rid of those points do an elecrtronic conversion. mine was doing the same thing. points were in need of some filing. but i dont carry a flat file on my boat, and never will! i got mine from www.vintageperformance.com 100 bucks for a hi perf coil and the conversion kit delivered.