Prop shaft options

You would be fine with the same coupling half as long as he knows to have a heat shrink fit on the shaft. The bore of the coupling should be .000" to .0005" under size of the shaft. He should also press the coupling onto the shaft, chuck the shaft up in the lathe and take a light cut on the coupling face so it runs true to the shaft. Then he can press it back off so you can install it with the heat shrink in the boat.

BTW, we find that the cost of the ARE set up is VERY close to a single tape shaft set up over here.

With the engine and trans out, it sure makes it easy to put a single taper prop shaft in! Go for it!!

218.00 40"x1" single taper from me.

Thanks for the input guys, I've been trying to reply to this thread all day but it keeps getting knocked back by spam filters shall try one more time..
Matt, cheers for the heads up on ASAP supplies, their website was down earlier but shall keep trying, whilst on topic can you recommend any other UK based part suppliers its always good to buy local..

TXF I think you've hit the nail on the head, since pulling the prop, shaft, strut, engine, and knowing how relatively easy it is to do I wouldn't think twice about doing it again.
For me it's all about familiarising myself with the task in hand, first time its very daunting but after asking 101 questions on CCF and making a few mistakes along the way I'm good to do it all again in the future.
I haven't replaced the cutless bearing yet, but will be doing so once my very bent strut has been straightened out. I was thinking of leaving the cutless in with a cut off section of 1" prop shaft in place and hitting that with the strut in a vice using a lump hammer. It sounds brutal but currently the only way I can think of straightening it out, possibly with a bit of heat.
Anyway I digress!

SNobsessed wrote: Graham - If you can get someone to fab a frame, here is a way to straighten the strut: Old Post

I like it, good idea thanks

Very popular in Australia although ours have a key as well.


Split Coupling

I've noticed the hot rod v drives and Dragboats use a quick connect that allows them to switch engines easily. One of the I want to do this year is figure out how they can do that without the whole alignment process or maybe they have something that allows them to do it much quicker that I haven't noticed.   The motors sit on plates instead of trational mounts and my guess is they align them at the shop and when they build the plates.

8122pbrainard wrote: gR@HaM wrote: Those split couplings look ideal, why don't people use these instead of ARE is there a down side?? http://www.asap-supplies.com/marine/split-clamp-on-half-couplings-4-inch In theory, they aren't as accurate especially if the bore to shaft tolerance is off more than a couple thousands. They are also more expensive - look at the machining needed to make them. BTW, here's a true link

Pete I knew you would be in there with the link
It seems my new smart phone isn't so smart afterall!!

Sounds like I should stick with my original coupling as long as it cleans up ok, I can get it pressed in at work as have box ovens capable of 500+degC

Yep I won't forget about getting that coupling face skimmed.
Sorry, I wasn't clear about fitting the coupling - I haven't access to a press but have to industrial high temperature ovens, so can stick the shaft in a vice heat up the coupling and knock it on

Perfec

Well I use them, mostly for curing coatings and burning off etc.
What temperature do most people take the coupling up to, to achieve enough expansion?
I appreciate this would have been covered before..

Ok thanks, no they are not used for heat treating they are conventional box ovens.
The lower temperature ones typically used for curing PU type coatings, the higher temperature ones for curing high melt point fluoropolymer coatings and burning off.