91 BF questions

Ok, I have a couple questions I'd like to ask, regarding a 91 BF I am trying to get running. (454, 330hp)

1: What carb is recommended to be used? The stock one is junk. this boat appears to have sat about 2 years, with some water in the bilge, with a boat cover on. All the carb linkage is frozen and it's almost impossible to make out the numbers on it.

2: What do you all recommend for 'breaking loose' a locked up motor? (I believe this to be the case as I have the plugs out, and still can't turn the crank pulley with a 1/2" drive ratchet). I still need to pull the starter to be sure it is not stuck/engaged in the flywheel. The boat has 700 hrs. All the plugs are pretty much even burn patterns/color.

3: what spark plugs to use? (if I don't end up needing a new motor)

4: What was the stock prop? It currently has a 4 blade 13.5 - 16 Acme 536 (also stamped V R) which I'm pretty sure stands for V drive, right hand rotation.

5: I plan on completely draining/cleaning the tank, and maybe new fuel lines. ANd a sending unit....

6: I noticed the knock sensor wire attachment is corroded and broken too :/



Any other advice is gladly welcome :)

Thanks!

That prop should be the best for out of the hole and put your rpms as high as you'd want them, 4800-5000

5000 no problem, what are your plans for water sports?

It won't surf, everything else should work out.

I think you'll get 50 with that prop and a lot better hole shot , just have to see what the rpms are like. Tx what pitch are you running and what were your numbers? I had a 17.5 pitch but would have like to try a 16

I'm running an Acme 328 13.5 x. 15.5, it's one of the pancaked props. Haven't given it a go with the new heads and cam but I saw 49 and a few tenths on the GPS when I got the prop. Thats with the 351 and the ProTec, I would expect the BBC makes up for the extra weight with a little more HO and a lot of torque.

Don't know why the Barefoot/Excel won't surf, but I had no luck and have heard the same thing from many others, there is no push at all in the wave anywhere.

Steve, it's generally not a good thing to be bragging about you're short shaft.     

For speed runs the water needs to be fairly nasty, mine is faster in water I don't care to ride in and the v hull makes for a very smooth stable ride at WOT.

Alright you short shafters.... lol
Well, I have had success getting her loose! (the motor that is). I sprayed some PB blaster in the cylinders and let it set overnight. Today, after working the Crank pulley nut back and forth a bit (not easy and was probably close to breaking it off) when it started to turn. I slowly worked it back and forth a bit, till I could get it to wrench turn completely. I then cleaned up the terminals on the starter solenoid, etc. and did some light tapping on the starter. Hooked the battery up, and voila! She cranks over fine. Now I guess I should compression check the cylinders.... Hopefully the rings are loose from the pistons as well.. (not seized)

Its deja vu all over again.

I'm certainly not qualified to recommend carbs, but if you aren't doing anything but running it stock then there's not anything to gain getting a different one. Once dialed in there's really not much you should have to adjust so one that comes setup correctly already is about as plug and play as a carb gets, basically bolt it on and go.

TRBenj wrote: I would be more concerned about selecting the proper size (cfm) than anything else. I do not believe the marine 650cfm 4160 is available brand new anymore... So I'd be looking for a good used one. You can convert a 4160 to a 4150, replacing the rear metering plate with a metering block with replaceable jets. The kit costs about $40. If everything is stock though, there's really no need- unless perhaps you run at high altitude.

I just happened to be looking at carbs yesterday and noticed that skidim is in fact listing a new 4160 650cfm for the 330 hp 454 - at 699 before discount. National Carb is listing a rebuilt 650 cfm holley at 279 or thereabouts but I do not know that it is an exact match. Although - I would be a lot more worried about the engine health than a new carb at this point. Even if you get it running I wouldnt dump any real money into accessories until after it made it through a season, sometimes after they are locked up they recover fully.. sometimes they dont.

As an update, I just ordered a carb from National Carburator in Jacksonville. After spending some time on the phone with their technical department, we found that the number on my original carb (80262) is referenced in the Holley records as a proprietary carb made for Correct Craft. It was a 4160/650 CFM and had a size 75 jets, and size 35 squirters, and also had 172 throttle plates. They are basically building a custom carb since there is no exact match for the original.
It will be based off a 750 CFM, which has the same plates, square bore, with essentially the same jets (72) and squirters (31). They will be putting the correct bowls so I can use the single fuel inlet. When investigating the posibility of using a 600 or 650 CFM Holley, they advise that the jets and squirters were considerably smaller than the original carb (information directly from Holley).
Cost is 269.00 shipped and I should have it by next Thursday/Friday. Hopefully my motor will 'recover' fine, and this carb works out well.
National carb also said they gaurantee the carb for 1 year, including performance wise (if I'm not happy with this carb they will make it right)
Wish me luck!