mystery 454? NEED HELP

8122pbrainard wrote: Dan, Hopefully you have not installed a deep cycle battery and all your connections are good. What type of battery do you have?

Dan,
Hopefully you have not installed a deep cycle battery and all your connections are good. Yes, the cables will heat up when you do extended cranking since the factory did go to the min wire size. Again, the problem has been discussed in several threads. Deep cycles are bad for cranking. What type of battery do you have? The voltage drop is bad with the deeps on high amp loads (cranking) consequently the amps go way up (Ohms law).

So got the new starter and it actually sounds like she might start now. The new problem is the wire from the starter solenoid to the starter motor is getting hot and I only cranked it a little bit. I don't want to screw anything up. I think I need to go through all of the wiring. How is the starter supposed to be wired to the coil my goes through a porcelain reistor that is mounted to the intake manifold. There are 4 wires that go to the starter two go to the big post on the solenoid, and one wire to each of the little posts (r, s). From the r post on the solenoid one wire goes to porcelain resistor then to positive post on coil. The neg pist on coil has two wires one to distributor one out of a big pack of wires that run aroound engine even attsching to altetnator. The s post on solenoid is grounded to tranny. Sound right

Yeah looked there saw some mixed reviews, I think I'm going to buy new just wondering about sizing.

Hey guys just recieved the wrong starter in the mail awesome! Got the right one on order hopefully. Want to get this carb ordered I just cant justify buying a used one I want new so there is no excuses. Trying to figure out what I should be looking for CFM wise and if edlebrock or quadrajet will bolt on to my set up? WOuld love some insight

Bri892001 wrote: 8122pbrainard wrote: ... Besides crimping the lugs on, I always like to sweat solder. It fills in the gaps the crimping leaves behind... Pete, was is sweat solder? Is that something different from using an electric soldering iron?

Brian,
"sweat" soldering is just a common term when capillary action is used to pull solder into a joint. Think about soldering copper water pipe/fittings together. A large soldering iron is ideal for lugs on cable. A torch can be used as long as you be very careful to avoid excess heat. I happen to like "Sta-brite" solder and always have a roll of it. It has silver in it that really wets out the joint plus its stronger.

head off casting number 3931063 there were also GM3T and B259

I have always used wing nuts and have never had any issues.Get them tight by hand and as long as electric system is working properly good to go. I am sure everyone has had an issue where starter keeps cranking on a vehicle or there is an electrical program and you have to disconnect battery quick I don't want my boat to burn up while I am looking for a wrench.

I know guys running pressurized soft fuel lines. They haven't had any problems in eons either...yet....
That still doesn't make it right.
Loose the wing nuts.

cadunkle wrote: They are not finicky, but rather they are very simple and reliable.

+1

cadunkle wrote: baitkiller wrote: Yes you are correct. I would wager somebody here has a carb for you. I am not a Holly guy so no help here on that. Other than being original I cannot understand the obsession with such a finicky carburetor. I threw the leaky POS in the dumpster and bolted on an AFB with a wedge and haven't looked back. I am sure there must be a benefit somewhere, I just have not discovered it personally. I have a list 9022 Holley 800 CFM 4150 marine double pumper for sale. Rebuilt last season and ran maybe 10 hours. New billet base plate replaced the worn out original. No choke on it currently but I may have the choke parts if you want to run a choke. Got frustrated with a problem I couldn't figure out and bought a new one to replace it. Turns out I had a vacuum leak under the intake and this carb is fine. I'd like $450 for it. If interested let me know, would be a good fit for a 454... I had it on my PCM 454. As for your dislike of Holley carbs... They are not finicky, but rather they are very simple and reliable. I don't understand where this reputation of being finicky comes from. They just plain work. Every "finicky" problem I've come across is a result of contamination, typically junk in the air bleeds from improperly installed or inadequate air filtration. In my observation the people who typically bash Holley carbs don't understand how they work, and are having trouble with their old worn out engine not running right with an old gunked up carb, or just bolting on a brand new carb on wahtever engine with no tuning and complain that it doesn't run right, has flat spots, runs rich, or whatever. All carbs must be clean and tuned for the engine to run right. It's a simple, reliable, tunable, and well proven design.

pics of carb? would this bolt right on?

baitkiller wrote: Yes you are correct. I would wager somebody here has a carb for you. I am not a Holly guy so no help here on that. Other than being original I cannot understand the obsession with such a finicky carburetor. I threw the leaky POS in the dumpster and bolted on an AFB with a wedge and haven't looked back. I am sure there must be a benefit somewhere, I just have not discovered it personally.

I have a list 9022 Holley 800 CFM 4150 marine double pumper for sale. Rebuilt last season and ran maybe 10 hours. New billet base plate replaced the worn out original. No choke on it currently but I may have the choke parts if you want to run a choke. Got frustrated with a problem I couldn't figure out and bought a new one to replace it. Turns out I had a vacuum leak under the intake and this carb is fine. I'd like $450 for it. If interested let me know, would be a good fit for a 454... I had it on my PCM 454.

As for your dislike of Holley carbs... They are not finicky, but rather they are very simple and reliable. I don't understand where this reputation of being finicky comes from. They just plain work. Every "finicky" problem I've come across is a result of contamination, typically junk in the air bleeds from improperly installed or inadequate air filtration. In my observation the people who typically bash Holley carbs don't understand how they work, and are having trouble with their old worn out engine not running right with an old gunked up carb, or just bolting on a brand new carb on wahtever engine with no tuning and complain that it doesn't run right, has flat spots, runs rich, or whatever. All carbs must be clean and tuned for the engine to run right. It's a simple, reliable, tunable, and well proven design.

Oh, no diff on bell housing or ring gears between BBC and SBC as far as i can remember.

Heads will largely drive your carb choice, so let us know what you find.

The exhaust manifolds look like Indmars to me, but there seem to be a lot of non-original parts on that motor. Regardless, the only thing I can think of that would be marinization-specific about the starter choice is the bellhousing. Though, my guess is that so long as you get a marine starter for a Mark IV BBC that spins the proper way for the location youre mounting it in, you should be fine. I dont recall struggling to find a starter for our RH top mount OMC.

Il pop those valve covers today and see if I can figure out the firing order. When a valve is relaxed the rockers will have play in them right? The list on the carb was 4779 and I was told was not marine no j tubes besides that the primary throttle shaft has tons of play in it. Found some starters that look the same but not knowing if it is a omc, mercruiser etc makes it hard. I found a starter that is for a crusader 7.4 that looks like a match but how can I be certain? I was laughing because the only starters that were ever I this boat since I had it were the wrong direction. I will post the carrying numbers from the head when I open it up. I will need some help determining which carb to buy