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Drive shaft straightening ??

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shagit View Drop Down
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    Posted: May-31-2013 at 11:32pm
It appears the prop end of my (91 BF) shaft is tweaked. Water test earlier this week revealed a very slight vibration so when i spin the prop by hand, the threaded end is definetly off. I will try to load a video to show. This is a boat I'm restoring.
To the eye, the rest of the shaft (strut to through hull) appears very true.
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Bones71 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bones71 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-01-2013 at 12:43am
Shag, I just hit something last week and to the "eye" everything looked good. With a dial indicator it was horrible. You will want to look into the shaft allignment video and do some checking. Bones.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shagit Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-01-2013 at 2:20am
Thanks Bones. Yeah, like I said, i'm just fixing her up, so I think I might end just getting a new shaft..... Not sure if these can be trued up.... I know it's 1 1/8", but I need to check the length...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bones71 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-01-2013 at 2:26am
I'm in the same boat. Sorry for the pun. I called SkiDim and asked them what I needed and they got me going in the right direction. Mine was 51 inches. Some of the guys who work there have Nautiques. I wasn't sure who else sold the ARE double taper shaft. I am also going to try and straighten the old one. I have spent the last 30 days going over the whole boat and trailer. It can be a little overwhelming but there is a lot of help on here.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shagit Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-01-2013 at 2:29am
Yes there is a lot of help here. I just found out mine is 54" and is around $360 new..... Hate to have to spend it..... I might see if there is a local shop here in Orlando that straightens them.... A machine shop maybe....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bones71 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-01-2013 at 2:37am
I think some prop shops specialize in shaft straightening also. Not sur but I think so. I'm tryi g to do as much as I can on my own to save cash and learn too. Good luck. Bones.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-01-2013 at 9:10am
If you buy a new shaft, take the opportunity to correct the shaft length (minimizing strut to prop clearance). This will improve performance and reliability. On the excels especially, it will open up your prop choices (stock length shaft is so long that it causes prop to rudder clearance issues with many aftermarket props).
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote baitkiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-01-2013 at 11:48am
If you have occasion to come south I have the best prop and strut guy I have ever worked with in Fort Myers. And i have used every one on both coasts from ski boats to 60' wheels and Kort nozzles. I feel it is worth the trip. Your running gear will be absolutely perfect. This guy is nutty. My little shaft came back spoon cut and knurled with a pinned key. These are things you just simply do not see in itty bitty running gear like ours. He also straightened my strut that was out about 10mm with a slight twist and took the prop back to the original blue print. I took the opportunity to install the white OJ bearing and I like it but to be honest I have only about 20 hours on it so far.
1)As Tim stated, check hub to strut clearance and report back with the measurement to establish if a length adjustment should be done.
2) Unbolt the coupler and slide the shaft log fwd to check strut alignment. Check strut bearing condition. If not perfect, unbolt the strut.
Put all parts in your car and drive to Fort Myers to M&M machine on Metro Pkw. Talk to Lynn or Dan and tell them John Campbell sent you.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TX Foilhead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-01-2013 at 12:06pm
I'm sure John's guy is good, but after taking the shaft out of mine I guarantee you that you want to just replace it with an ARE. Its so much more of a process to get it out than it was with the DD. Has to go out the back and the rudder had to be pulled and the boat had to be lifted off the trailer. Any thing that speeds up the process is good, I didn't do it all at once, but figure on a half day min just to get to the point where you can pull it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bones71 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-01-2013 at 1:09pm
With the original shaft you have to remove the rudder? I didn't know that. Taking the boat off the trailer is no biggie for me but removing the rudder? Is that a big deal? Bones.
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shagit View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shagit Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-01-2013 at 1:58pm
Thanks for the great info! The rudder is not a big deal to pull. Remove the safety wire (don't lose) remove the top and tiller arm bolts (block up the rudder so it doesn't fall out) and then slowly remove it.
Sounds as though I might be better off buying a new shaft.
How do I tell if the strut bearing needs replacing? How much are they - should I replace it anyway with shaft out?
Thanks!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TX Foilhead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-01-2013 at 2:33pm
Bushings are $65 I think, might as well replace while you're there and have access. Possibly a dripless packing too or at least some goretex rope that doesn't leak much. The Vdrive coupling is a pain to get loose, but seperateing it from the transmission and lifting it out is easy, there's a place on top for a lift ring.   A 2x6 across the top of the gas tank makes a nice seat and watch out for the angle that holds the floor up, it will grab your calf when you stand up.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bones71 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-01-2013 at 2:35pm
Shag, I ordered new strut bearings with my new shaft. I figured since I had it out I might as well. I think mine are original. They seem fine though. I ordered the Vesconite ones from SkiDim. Go to YouTube and watch the video correct craft alignment.
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shagit View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shagit Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-01-2013 at 3:12pm
Tx,
Lifting ring for ? I don't have to take the tranny or v-drive loose do I? And other than getting the tool ski dim has, is there an easy way to remove/replace the strut bushing(s)?
Sorry for all the questions..... Replying from mobile :/
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TX Foilhead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-01-2013 at 3:45pm
The tool is for the ARE shaft (tapered on both ends).   Unless its been changed you have a regular shaft that will require the coupling to be pulled of with a gear puller or pressed out with the socket trick.   I think you'll opt for the gear puller and Vdrive removal once you see what kind of acces you have. Getting the coupler back on is another can of worms where the Vdrive will be in the way.   If my project handn't already gone so far over budget and taken longer than I wanted I wouldn't have thought twice about changing it out. I also know that I'll have the opportunity again with a future project that I'm planning.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shagit Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-01-2013 at 4:43pm
So there's not really away to change the shaft without pulling th v-drive? Ugh
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-01-2013 at 5:14pm
Originally posted by Bones71 Bones71 wrote:

With the original shaft you have to remove the rudder? I didn't know that.

Not true on all boats.


54 Atom


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Keep it original, Pete
<
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shagit Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-02-2013 at 10:57pm
Trbenj, so if my stock shaft is 54", what should I get? 53"? I thought it looked like it stuck out a long way past the strut... Might be why it got tweaked...
I really don't want to pull the vdrive out - never done that before....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shagit Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-02-2013 at 11:00pm
It actually looks like there is enough room under the vdrive .... I can get wrenches on the coupler nuts... Anything special to watch out for?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote baitkiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-02-2013 at 11:23pm
If you are replacing the shaft the only tool you need in there is a cut off wheel or sawz-all.
Jesus was a bare-footer.............
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TX Foilhead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-02-2013 at 11:26pm
Originally posted by baitkiller baitkiller wrote:

If you are replacing the shaft the only tool you need in there is a cut off wheel or sawz-all.



Ding ding ding..................winner!
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shagit View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shagit Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-02-2013 at 11:47pm
Lol, I guess your right.
Then that coupler will come right off!
Then I can take it to the bench to remove the rest of the shaft...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bones71 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-03-2013 at 12:00am
Ok I have a question. When removing the flange.... Do you need to use a better grade bolt? I read that somewhere on here. A grade 5? Or just a fine threaded bolt?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-03-2013 at 12:10am
A grade 5 fine thread will work fine. Anymore tension than that can handle will distort the coupler.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shagit Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-03-2013 at 12:37am
So I measured and have 1 1/4" from strut to prop hub.... Aft prop hub to rudder is about a half inch....
Got your PM Txfoil, thanks!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-03-2013 at 8:14am
Shoot for 1/2" of clearance from strut to prop hub.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hotboat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-03-2013 at 10:15am
This may be too simple of a fix but how bout having the taper ground further up the shaft and adding washers to take up the slack?
Brian
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-03-2013 at 10:20am
If you have the shaft and coupler off anyways, its easier to just chop a bit off the non-tapered side than it is to re-grind the whole taper.

In this case, the original poster's shaft is toast, and he's buying new anyways.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hotboat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-03-2013 at 10:50am
I was thinking the shaft could be saved by moving the taper up. Does anyone know the Rockwell of the shaft?
Brian
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shagit Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-03-2013 at 3:40pm
I'm going to try and remove the shaft (today hopefully) so I can confirm the length before I order a new one. In addition, with the 1 1/4" from strut to prop hub, I have about 3" from prop blade to hull surface - so I should be fine shortening the shaft about 1" if I'm correct.
Thanks again for all the advice everyone!
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