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ARE Shaft

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RedandWhite73 View Drop Down
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    Posted: June-16-2013 at 2:11pm
I actually just finished making the cover for the boat. The looks I got when my neighbors would swing by and find me in the garage with a sewing machine were priceless.
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RedandWhite73 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RedandWhite73 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-16-2013 at 2:10pm
The boat has never been run with that grade 8 setup on the coupling. I was just using it as a placeholder until the new ARE shaft comes. I actually stopped doing the alignment until the new shaft comes. No sense in possibly duplicating work if that shaft is slightly bent.

Will the 4200/5200 seal any holes under the strut that result from tweaking the strut placement?

I have looked at the stringers and they are in ok condition, but will probably need to be replaced in the upcoming year or two. When I get to that point I might just upgrade boats as my wife and I will both be done with grad school.

Not sure why the fuel filter is located there, I didn't realize it was out of place. When I bought the boat the carb needed to be rebuilt and I think the guy was just trying any dinky fix he could in hopes of not having to rebuild the carb and upgrade the ignition system. How do I check the fuel tank?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-15-2013 at 9:26pm
Dan,
It's great you got the picture posting down. Keep them coming!

As mentioned, align the strut and shaft to the hull log first. Struts ar NOT precise and know to be off in degrees as well as mounting hole location. The new 6A6 I just got was off at least 1 half of a 3/8" hole on the forward end. That will be taken care of with just drilling out the existing holes and using the 4200. An angle difference, if needed will be done with shims under the strut base to the hull.

From your pictures as well as the age of your hull, have you checked the condition of your stringers? I have a feeling they aren't in the greatest shape. When bad, they too will effect alignment.

Who put the grade 5 hex head bolt as a set screw in your shaft coupling???? It should be a cup point hardened square head. Hopefully the misalignment hasn't cause the coupling to fret to the point where the heat shrink fit is lost and you are trying to compensate??? The heat shrink is the key to the fit AND NOT THE SET SCREW??

Is that a fuel filter screwed to the scabbed on piece of ply on the port stringer? If so, what's up with that addition? Junk in the tank? Did you clean the tank out?


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RedandWhite73 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RedandWhite73 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-15-2013 at 8:56pm
It appears I'm a lazy lover to go along with my wandering eye.

Thanks for the photo instructions, I'll make better use of the search function in the future.

Cool, I think this will work. I have watched the alignment video and it does appear I will need to shim the strut as well. I was waiting to get my ARE shaft before I apply the 5200 just to be safe.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-15-2013 at 12:59pm
Originally posted by RedandWhite73 RedandWhite73 wrote:

I'm embarrassed to ask this, but does anyone know how to shrink a photo's size in Flickr? I need to get the pictures below the 5ookb threshold.

Dan,
Again, you haven't been doing any searching! The CCfan site has a great thread on FAQ's as well as posting pictures Take a look. I happen to use www.photobucket for all my pictures here on site. I have my setting set to automatically resize anything I download pictures. Then, it's just a matter of coping the URL and pasting it to your post.

Well, did you align the new strut to the log? You have taken a look at this video - alignment 101 correct? If the sites search feature is slow to you, try googling CCfan and the subject you are looking for.

Also, how about a diary entry? We'd love to see every CC owner in there!


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77 Tique

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 74Wind Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-15-2013 at 12:39pm
Try www.webresizer.com. Pick from "My pictures", adjust to size, then save back to "My Pictures" under a new name. It's easy.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RedandWhite73 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-15-2013 at 11:59am
I'm embarrassed to ask this, but does anyone know how to shrink a photo's size in Flickr? I need to get the pictures below the 5ookb threshold.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-15-2013 at 7:19am
Originally posted by RedandWhite73 RedandWhite73 wrote:

I found a great tutorial for lapping a prop: http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=29565

I have another question. I installed my new strut, same as the old strut -6A, but side by side I thought the angle looked slightly different. Using a straight drive shaft I've been trying to adjust the engine so the couplers will mate properly, but there isn't enough room on the front engine mount adjustment screw to raise the engine sufficiently. I made 3/4" aluminum shims to put under the mounts to get the proper amount of lift. Would I be better off shimming the mounts with 11-ply marine-grade plywood? Should I be concerned that I have to shim the engine mounts to properly mate the couplers?

Dan,
Why are you going to a MC site when we have an even better tutorial on lapping here on CCfan? Proper prop installation Your searching went to the wrong site!!
BTW, here's a proper link to the MC tutorial
Chris is correct that alignment starts at the strut. When you installed the new strut, did you align it to the log? How about some pictures?
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:


Dan,
Start with the strut. Insert the shaft in the strut and the hull log. Take the weight off the forward end of the shaft and see if the shaft turns freely while it's centered in the log. If it doesn't turn freely, then you will need to shim the strut. From that point, you can move forward to the engine.

Keeping the context of your project in the same thread would be great. It will/would help all of us follow what you are doing.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-14-2013 at 11:36pm
Dan - Since the strut angle is different, maybe you want to shim the strut. It only takes about .020 shim, I used brass, but stainless is better. I got the shim stock at Ace Hdwe.

Check the centering of the shaft in the log. If you have to move the engine that much, the strut probably needs to be shimmed.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gR@HaM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-14-2013 at 5:34pm
Originally posted by Hollywood Hollywood wrote:

He's talking about the engine.


O yeh
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-14-2013 at 4:21pm
He's talking about the engine.

Yes, totally fine to shim it with flat aluminum, the factory did on the late 80s Barefoots and probably other v-hull boats with cradles. Ply wouldn't be on my list of choices though.

About a 1/2" swing on the transmission blocks. Pinch bolt up is the "low" position.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gR@HaM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-14-2013 at 1:22pm
Are you sure the trunnion blocks are not on upside down? I found it makes a difference!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RedandWhite73 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-14-2013 at 1:05pm
I found a great tutorial for lapping a prop: http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=29565

I have another question. I installed my new strut, same as the old strut -6A, but side by side I thought the angle looked slightly different. Using a straight drive shaft I've been trying to adjust the engine so the couplers will mate properly, but there isn't enough room on the front engine mount adjustment screw to raise the engine sufficiently. I made 3/4" aluminum shims to put under the mounts to get the proper amount of lift. Would I be better off shimming the mounts with 11-ply marine-grade plywood? Should I be concerned that I have to shim the engine mounts to properly mate the couplers?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-13-2013 at 8:18pm
I had already lapped the prop to my new ARE shaft but just to be safe, I just lapped in the taper on the coupling end. Yup, it was off slightly too so, I recommend lapping it in as well.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-13-2013 at 5:27pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RedandWhite73 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-13-2013 at 5:24pm
10% discount? Nice, how do I get that?

I kept reading all the back-wood shaft fixes gone awry and decided to spend the money.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-13-2013 at 5:13pm
SkiDIM's price (dont forget the 10% discount) is cheaper than buying from ARE directly. Call them and ask about the tools required- they'll walk you through it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RedandWhite73 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-13-2013 at 5:00pm
I am finally pulling the trigger on the ARE shaft. Where is the cheapest place to acquire one and do I need any specialty tools for installation?

-Dan
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