Drive shaft straightening ??

^ this

So I ordered an ARE shaft (they are actually supposed to be making me one 1/2" shorter next week), then I find out that the local machine shop was able to straighten my old one after all. I have a video of the shaft in the lathe with a dial gauge and it is damn straight. SO, now I have a dilemma... Do I call and try to to cancel the ARE? or keep that one coming and try to sell this shaft. I spent $100 and they even shortened it by the 1/2", cut the coupler end keyway 1/2" longer, and a new spot for the set screw.
Next year I plan on removing the engine to dress it up.

it's on the prop end, apparently near the start of the taper.

Yeah I guess it's a long shot..... oh well.

Anybody know somewhere in central fla that stocks the ARE and around the same price? Was hoping to put a shaft in next week....

art cozier shop maybe?

Another cost justification for the ARE shaft is avoidance of the trip to the ER, when you get 3rd degree burns on your forearm.

I think all you need is the socket, it's thin and designed to fit between the couplings. They make some other things that make pulling the shaft and changing the strut bushings quick and painless, but I don't think you need them to put the shaft in. SKIDIM has the whole set up and a video of what to do on their site.

I did 20 min in the oven at 400 with a solo cup full of ice water on the shaft, I believe those are the standards posted around here somewhere. Also remember I had no Vdrive or motor in my way.   Coupler was on a cookie sheet, saw horses set so I could set it down, jump in the boat, pull off the cup and grab the coupler.   Buzzer went off, welding gloves on and I made it to the door before I burnt my hands. Now the coupling is on the porch 50 yards from the boat and I'm looking for oven mits.   Found them, set the coupling on top of them a ran to the boat. It slipped right on, mybe 1/8 in short and that's it you do t get 2 tries. Good enough for me, the shaft was pulled out a little further before from a rope catch so I know the prop clears. Only thing I missed was being able to tighten the set bolt, had to drill another spot.

If you figure you're going to have to make 2 attempts and that $100 isn't much. Once it touches the shaft the heat starts to transfer and the shaft expands every locks up, that's going to be difficult to get it lined up and slid on with the Vdrive in the way. I think I got a little lucky because we do this at work every now and then, I was familiar with the process before I tried it.

Hotter and longer...
But the ARE is probably worth the 100 clams once one factors in time, hassle and just old worn out parts.

I'm good.    I think I drank about a pallet or so doing the rehab, didn't speed the process any and now I probably need to go rehab myself.

Been there, done that and it's not like a DD.

shagit wrote: Hoping things will be pretty easy to line up/adjust...

shagit wrote: So I guess I'm going to get a new shaft. Should I get the one from nautique parts? Or the one from skidim? I know NP is a site sponsor, and it appears to be about $100 cheaper....

Unless you know the EXACT dimention of the new shaft (shafting has diameter tollerances) and your coupling, don't use your old coupling. Remember it's an interference fit of .000" to -.0005".

The easier way is to go with the ARE double taper shaft system. Then, you won't even need to heat shrink the coupling on. Billy and Karen distribute them. 318 386 2825

So I guess I'm going to get a new shaft. Should I get the one from nautique parts? Or the one from skidim?
I know NP is a site sponsor, and it appears to be about $100 cheaper....