popping from carb

Holley choke cap and gasket part# 45-258.



Advance Auto Parts

Hope that your wife has her tongue planted firmly in her cheek when she says that. It's never good when they are serious about critisizing our boats!

Ask your mechanic friend to go over the coil/resistor/choke wiring. If the choke is wired to the coil side of the resistor, it will pull the voltage so low that it might affect the performance of the coil.

Art

Marine carbs don't have a fast idle cam like auto carbs do. Fast idle is accomplished with the throttle.

Well I have an admission. When I rebuilt the carb I used the wrong gasket between the base plate and the body. I will definitely never do that again. It stinks being wrong or making a mistake but it Im happy that I finally figured it out. Good sleep tonight. Thank you for all of the help and ideas. The boat idles great and starts great also. I hate to admit it but there is one more problem. It wont rev past 2k rpms. when I punch it the tack drops to 1k and it bogs. When loaded the carb secondaries dump as they should etc. My mechanic friend had to leave before much digging last night but he was fairly confident I had a weak spark or it was weakening with rpm's . I'm happy to start a new thread if necessary. I don't know the format here. Again, thank you guys so much for everything so far. The boat thanks you too!

It will spin up to 2k then bog and not go any further. It sounds like its running out of power (electricity) It seems to be advancing with a timing light. The springs are unbroken and recently have been cleaned and oiled. Weak coil? Bad resister? I set the points at .018 when they were new two weeks ago. New cap, rotor, condenser.

I have a vw bug. I can steal that one and give it a shot

mcfunnymoney wrote: It will spin up to 2k then bog and not go any further. It sounds like its running out of power (electricity) It seems to be advancing with a timing light. The springs are unbroken and recently have been cleaned and oiled. Weak coil? Bad resister? I set the points at .018 when they were new two weeks ago. New cap, rotor, condenser.

If you changed all that you had the plug wires off.. check the firing order, then check it again.

If you have low voltage to the coil (would need to check it under load) you could experience similar symtoms as well.

A great big ignition wire bypassing the switch and going straight to the battery would be a decent test

I'm still concerned that the choke heater might be hooked up to the wrong side of the resistor. Run the engine and after it's warmed up, unplug the positive wire off the choke housing and see whether the engine behaves normally.

Unplugging the wire will take the choke's load off of the ignition system and raise the voltage some.

Whatever coil you try needs to be a non-internal resistor type coil. Some have resistors in them. Don't know anything about VWs.   
Art

The coil on the vw is red in color. I have a test light and voltmeter. What is a good bench test for a coil? Or is it ok the throw the vw one on it and try that? I will be able to run the boat tonight and unhook the choke wires.

My mechanic friend came over again tonight and we took a look in the distributor. We compared the old points to the new ones. The spring on the old points was significantly stouter than the one on the new points. I checked the kit after searching the forum and seeing a similar post about the weaker spring floating the points above 2000rpm and did not find another spring or a helper spring. After re-installing the old points the boat purrs like a kitten and revs like it should. Thanks again for everything. Its such a beneficial tool to have advice from experience at my fingertips. Needless to say I have ordered a new set of points with a stronger spring.

Glad to hear that one is solved!
Art