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Manifold plug stuck

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Bones71 View Drop Down
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    Posted: September-29-2013 at 7:18pm
Ok I'm sure this is common but here goes. Starting my first winterization and things were going great. I went to remove riser plug and both are stuck. Spayed them down with penetrating oil and nothing. One of them is broke in half on top. Do I get a impact on them or how do I proceed removing them? What seemed simple is not as usual. Do I need to remove riser to work on. I am putting it away for the season so it's no big deal but I hate to remove if I don't have to. Thanks,Tony.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bones71 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-29-2013 at 8:42pm
Ok so I pulled the risers. That went really smooth. I'm going to take them into work and see what I can do with them. Should I put a brass or stainless plug back in? That would seem to make more sesnse. What do you guys do? I plan on painting them while they are out also. Tony.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote OverMyHead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-29-2013 at 9:02pm
Mine are brass, I always put anti-sieze compound on all the plug threads when I winterize to avoid that problem. I had to drill one out of an engine block once and did not enjoy it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bones71 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-29-2013 at 10:08pm
Hers a couple pics. I'll fix and put new plugs in for reference. Tony.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote OverMyHead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-29-2013 at 10:32pm
What tool were you using to try and remove them?
For thousands of years men have felt the irresistible urge to go to sea, and many of them died. Things got better after they invented boats.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote OverMyHead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-29-2013 at 10:36pm
I use a half inch socket wrench without a socket.
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Bones71 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bones71 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-29-2013 at 10:41pm
Yeah that's what I tried. I'm just really unlucky with stuff. I usually do it right after someone did it wrong then others reap the benefits. Same thing with my house Love it!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dreaming Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-29-2013 at 10:43pm
Ok, same problem here a couple of years ago... here is what I did to repair the problem:

Put the riser in a vise so you can hold onto it while turning the plug.

- Use a small drill in each corner of the plug recess.
- drill a few small holes along the perimeter.
- Then drill a large hole in the middle of the plug( as large as you can fit without messing up the sides of the "square"
- knock the rest of the center out of the plug so you can get the breaker bar into it.   
- apply more penetrant (atf/acetone)
- give it a whack with a hammer to loosen any rust.   
- seat the breaker bar really well, (you may need to cut the rest of the outside part off with a hacksaw)
- turn out the plug.

you may only get one shot at this, but it worked well for me.
Good luck!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-29-2013 at 10:46pm
Tony - I suggest heating the plugs with a oxy-fuel torch until they start to glow. Then let cool & try again to remove. Try to keep the heat off the cast iron.

Once they are out, re-tap the threads.

I don't use anything on the threads, just don't tighten them much.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bones71 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September-29-2013 at 10:54pm
Ok guys. Good info. Thanks for responding. I'm going to talk to our maintenance guys at work also about it. They are real good at crap like this too. I'll try to post what I come up with. Tony.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote forvicjr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-03-2013 at 11:09pm
I suggest heating the plug as recommended above, but with the addition of this. When heating the plug remove heat and take an old candle and apply it to the threaded portion of the plug. Heat and repeat several times.Be carefull as the candle will attemp to flame up a bit. Just before it cools try to turn out. Principle of this is the heat draws the wax in the threads creating a lubricant. A very old school machinist tought me this trick years ago for removing pipe plus from cylinder blocks and heads. Good luck! Vic...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote boardersdad Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-04-2013 at 1:35am
Yes, torch the plugs.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bones71 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-04-2013 at 2:11am
Ok guys. Good stuff. Yes the risers are still at work untouched. It's been a busy week. I like the candle idea. I'll pass that along and try it next week. Thanks. Tony.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-04-2013 at 8:01am
Just FYI your nomenclature is a little mixed up... You're talking about the "manifolds". The "risers" bolt to the manifolds and are what the exhaust hose attaches to.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bones71 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-04-2013 at 1:03pm
Dang! Schooled again. One day I'll get.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-04-2013 at 1:21pm
Pour some acetone/ATF into the manifold and let it soak from the inside.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-04-2013 at 1:39pm
I realize you did not put them in but when you do don't go and muscle them in. There is relatively low pressure there,it's not like your holding back 60 lbs of pressure like water main pressure
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-04-2013 at 1:42pm
And it only drips into the bilge anyway...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MI-nick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-04-2013 at 2:57pm
heat is your friend here.
As far as I can tell, I'm not quite sure...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Morfoot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-04-2013 at 3:36pm
Just remember that HEATING metal causes it to expand so if you are heating just the plug you will want to attempt to remove it after it cools. The Swelling of the plug from heat will hopefully bust the 'grip' the manifold has on the plug. If you heat the manifold around the plug you will expand the metal surrounding it loosing it's grip.

+1 on the wax trick and acetone/ATF mixture.

I'd also use a bonafide breaker bar instead of a ratchet. The handle is longer, no teeth to worry about stripping out and most important MORE LEVERAGE/TORQUE with lesser effort.

Some useless, geewiz info... part of the scheduled maintenance on the 727 wing to fuselage attach lugs/bolts was to remove and replace with new one. After supporting the wing structure with jacks, etc we would remove the old bolt using a "port a power" to push it out. As we were removing the old one a new one was being cold soaked in liquid nitogen to shrink it so it go in with minimal effort. Only reason I mention this is so you will Think just the opposite on heating just the plug.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-04-2013 at 10:09pm
Originally posted by Morfoot Morfoot wrote:



I'd also use a bonafide breaker bar instead of a ratchet. The handle is longer, no teeth to worry about stripping out and most important MORE LEVERAGE/TORQUE with lesser effort.


It's also easier to get a cheater pipe on a breaker bar.

I was at a welding seminar once when they explained why heating a frozen fastener gets it loose. Since the fastener is constrained radially, it grows axially & forces the rust bonds to tear. They had math to back it up (slightly over my head though).
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