78 ski tique stringers

Im new to the correct craft world so here it goes I have a 78 ski tique and I am trying to restore and the stringers are rotted beyond belief and I cant use them as a template is there some where or someone ot there that has templates or stringers hate to scrape it the motor trans and prop and shaft are new. HELP

thanks for the help but stringers already partially torn out already that's how I got it cheap.

This may be of help it’s not a Tique but my 78 SN ......looking at the two boats the hull shape looks much the same, just your Tique is 15inches shorter and 5’1/4 inches narrower so you may be able to reduce the stringer lengths around mid- ship’s to work in your hull....you need to study what you have left and see if it could work....as I think the front and back sections will be very similar to an SN.
Please give us feedback on this as it may help others with Tique’s

Good Luck with the rebuild.

Bottom of the page..UK's 78 SN

not absolutely sure, but this might be the thread Tim is referring to. Second page.

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=12546&KW=stringer+measurements&PN=2&title=76-ski-tique-floor-stringer-replacement

Thanks guys for the help I think that is what I need !

Here we go again,you guy's being new here don't realize these band aids have been discussed here before. Don't know why Correct Craft went to all the time and expense to develop the composite stringer system of the 93's and up when all they had to do was to pour in an a magical elixir. The wood is structural,anything you pour in would not in itself have any strength. If it sounds too good to be true it probably is.

It appears Seacast is a resin (most likely vinylester as it claims to be "compatible" with vinyl and poly) thickened with high strength filler (fiberglass strand). Im sure its plenty strong as a core material... though Im a little skeptical that it wouldnt be too rigid- resin itself does not bend well. I have 2 other concerns that make it a tough sell in a CC stringer rebuild though:

1. "Just pour it in" they say. Anyone ever try and remove a Correct Craft stringer core and leave the surrounding glass fully intact? That can be a VERY difficult thing to do. I have disassembled a number of CC's and have taken one or 2 fully delaminated, semi-intact stringers out, but that is the exception, not the norm. Usually they are only delaminated in a few places. Trying to remove full strength sections of stringers, or dig out the completely mushy parts while leaving behind an acceptable skin (which seacast requires as a form) would be a huge PITA. Seacast says ALL of the wood needs to go, so this would be an incredibly time consuming and difficult task.

2. Cost. I used Seacast's calculator using Tique-sized stringers (2x8x10 x2, 1x6x8 x2) and came up with 20 gallons. Thats with essentially zero waste, and does not include the floor. At $200 for a 5 gal kit, thats $800 for the stringer cores alone- yikes! Thats easily the most expensive coring option that I can think of- about 2x the cost of something like Coosa/Airex.

I think the stuff may be ok as a band-aid spot repair (though I bet you could make a stronger pourable blend using thickened epoxy for less money) but it seems like a terrible choice for a from-scratch stringer job. Just MHO.

There is one step I missed is to cut the top off the stringer cavity with a die grinder